27 “Non-Perishable Foods” That Will Actually Spoil in Under 2 Years

There was a time when a farmhouse cellar held rows of jars, each marked in pencil with the month it was put up. The family ate the oldest jars first, every single time, and nothing on those shelves sat long enough to go bad. Somewhere along the way, folks traded that habit for a printed date on a cardboard box, and we’ve gotten soft about it.

The word “non-perishable” on a grocery label sounds like a promise, so plenty of pantries are now loaded with food nobody has checked in years.

A good share of that food is already on its way out, because the oils inside grains and nuts turn rancid over time. Acidic foods slowly wear through their can linings, and summer heat in a garage can shave years off almost anything stored there.

27. Brown Rice

Brown rice sounds like the healthier choice for a stockpile, and plenty of people buy it in bulk for that reason. But the bran layer holds oil, so the USA Rice Federation puts brown rice at only about six months on the shelf. A five-gallon bucket bought for the long haul may already smell like oily cardboard by the following summer.

White rice has that layer milled off, so it behaves completely differently once it’s sealed away from air. Find out how to dry can rice and beans for a 20+ years shelf life using nothing but your oven and canning jars:

26. Store-Bought Jerky

Commercial jerky comes with an oxygen absorber in the bag, and the USDA puts unopened packages at about a year. The reason it fails so fast is the moisture left in it on purpose, since nobody wants to buy meat that snaps like a twig, and that softness is also what feeds mold and bacteria once air gets in. Open the bag and you’re down to a few days unless you can refrigerate it. Homemade jerky doesn’t save you either, because the USDA caps it at one to two months and most home batches never dry as thoroughly as factory ones.

In Amish homes, meat sits on the shelf for 10+ years and still tastes like something you’d serve to company. There are 3 forgotten meat-preservation methods behind that, and pemmican may beat them on paper at 25+ years, but nobody looks forward to eating pemmican. This hands-on course on food preservation walks you through every step on video. This course helped me save a lot of money in prepping after I started making my own long lasting foods. 

25. Breakfast Cereal

Getting cereal past the two-year mark comes down to what you store it in. The original box and liner bag let air and humidity straight through, so the flakes need to go into Mylar bags inside a food-grade bucket, or into glass jars with a tight gasket lid if you’re only putting up a box or two.

Pasta, oats, rice, flour and dried beans all hold up far longer the same way. The catch is that sealing them up wrong traps the moisture inside with them, which is how people open a bucket three years later and find a solid, musty brick.

But before you seal that bag, make sure you run through these 3 crucial steps, and your cereal will still be crisp long after the date on the box has passed. 

24. Milk Chocolate

Chocolate earns a spot in a lot of kits because it lifts morale and trades well when things get tight. Milk chocolate is the weak link, though, since it holds its best quality for only about a year. Past that the cocoa butter oxidizes into a waxy, faintly soapy taste, and the milk solids turn sour on top of it. It also absorbs odors straight through its wrapper, so a bar stored near fuel or mothballs comes out tasting like them.

Dark chocolate over 70% is the better bet for storage, because the higher cocoa content and lower milk solids slow all of it down. 

23. Granola and Protein Bars

Bars are easy to toss in a glovebox and forget about, but their shelf life usually runs six to twelve months. Protein bars harden into something close to a brick as moisture moves around inside them. Granola bars, on the other hand, pick up a bitter edge once the oils and nuts oxidize, and the chocolate coating turns waxy.

22. Potato Chips

Chip bags are filled with nitrogen to push out oxygen, but that only buys an unopened bag about two months of good flavor. After that, the frying oil oxidizes and the chips pick up a stale, painty taste that salt can’t hide. A bag in a hot car trunk goes off even faster, so chips belong in short-term kits only.

21. Instant Ramen

Ramen is a prepper favorite since it costs pennies and cooks with very little fuel. The catch is that most instant noodles are flash-fried in palm oil before packaging, so the best-by date usually sits less than a year out. Old ramen smells off the moment you tear the wrapper, and the seasoning packet won’t cover it up.

20. Boxed Macaroni and Cheese

Boxed mac and cheese looks like a solid long-term meal, and the dry pasta inside would last for years on its own. But the cheese powder carries dairy fat that oxidizes and clumps over time. After about a year, the sauce tastes stale and grainy, and you’ll end up stirring in extra fat you may not have to spare.

19. Baking Powder

An unopened can of baking powder keeps about eighteen months, but an opened one loses much of its lift within six months to a year. A damp kitchen speeds that up. Luckily, a teaspoon stirred into hot water settles the question, and if it doesn’t fizz hard right away, your biscuits won’t rise either.

18. Active Dry Yeast

Sealed yeast packets are good until the date printed on them, as long as they stay cool and dry. An opened jar keeps roughly four months in the fridge, which won’t help much once the power goes out. Proofing a pinch in warm sugar water for ten minutes tells you whether it’s still alive, though a dead packet means no bread until the stores restock.

A sourdough starter solves that for good, since it’s a living culture that makes its own yeast out of flour and water. It needs feeding to stay healthy, but you can also dry it into flakes that sit in a jar for years and wake back up with a little warm water. From there you can bake THIS crispy bread in a jar, or, why not, turn it into cake in a jar, for when SHTF and even now.

17. Bouillon Cubes

Bouillon gets stockpiled to flavor rice and beans through a long crisis, yet most cubes are held together with palm oil or other fats. They tend to keep their quality for one to two years before turning crumbly and bitter. Granulated bouillon in a sealed jar does a little better than individually wrapped cubes.

16. Boxed Instant Potatoes

Instant potato flakes look like a dream stockpile food, and the #10 cans do hold up for years, but the cardboard box from the grocery aisle is a different animal. Cardboard breathes, so moisture and oxygen work their way in and the flakes pick up a stale, papery taste within about a year. They also clump into hard lumps that won’t rehydrate evenly, leaving you with gluey potatoes.

15. Wheat Germ

Wheat germ is the most oil-rich part of the wheat kernel, and it spoils faster than almost anything else in a pantry. Vacuum-packed jars are usually dated about a year out. Once the seal breaks, though, an opened jar can go rancid in a few weeks without refrigeration.

14. Whole Wheat Flour

Whole wheat berries sealed in buckets can stay good for decades, but the clock speeds up dramatically once they’re milled into flour. Whole wheat flour lasts about three months in the pantry and six to eight months in the fridge. Keeping whole berries and a hand-crank grain mill is the best way to handle it.

13. Acidic Canned Foods

Tomatoes, pineapple, citrus and anything packed in vinegar all work on the can from the inside, and the USDA puts high-acid canned goods at only twelve to eighteen months of best quality. The acid wears through the lining first, then the metal underneath starts to leach into the food, which is where the tinny taste comes from.

Tomato paste and sauce follow the same rule, and a dented or rusty can deserves extra suspicion since a damaged seam gives the acid a head start. Any can with bulging ends goes in the trash no matter what the date says.

12. Vegetable Oil

Soybean, canola and corn oils are cheap, so they get bought in bulk for emergency frying and baking. Unfortunately, these oils are high in polyunsaturated fats that break down fairly quickly. An unopened bottle typically keeps its quality for six months to a year.

11. Trail Mix

Trail mix puts nuts and dried fruit together in one bag, and that pairing works against it. Moisture from the fruit moves into the nuts, so they start to taste stale and bitter. Most bags are best within six to nine months.

10. Peanut Butter

Peanut butter shows up in a lot of emergency kits because a single jar holds thousands of calories, but unopened jars only run six months to two years depending on the brand, and the natural kind without stabilizers sits at the short end. Once you open one, you’ve got two or three months in the pantry before the oil goes rancid.

The bigger worry is mold, since peanuts carry an Aspergillus strain that produces a liver toxin heat won’t destroy, so any jar with dark or fuzzy spots goes in the trash whole rather than scooped around. 

9. Walnuts and Pecans

Walnuts have a high share of polyunsaturated fat, so they spoil faster than almost any other nut. Shelled walnuts and pecans can go rancid within a few months to half a year on a pantry shelf. In the freezer they’ll last a year or two, and nuts still in the shell hold up better than shelled ones.

8. Flavored Instant Oatmeal

Plain rolled oats keep for a long time in an airtight container, but flavored instant packets are another matter. The added milk powder and fruit bits shorten their life to about a year. They’re convenient for a bug-out bag, as long as you rotate them regularly.

7. Egg Noodles

Egg noodles look just like dry pasta, but the egg yolk adds fat that regular semolina pasta doesn’t have. They usually keep their best quality for one to two years. Past that, they can smell slightly sour and taste stale even after a long boil.

6. Whole Wheat Pasta

Whole wheat pasta keeps the bran and germ, so it contains more oil than white pasta. Its shelf life runs closer to a year, compared with the much longer stretch white pasta can last. And old whole wheat pasta takes on a bitter, musty taste that sauce can’t fully cover.

5. Cornmeal

Degerminated cornmeal, the kind most grocery stores sell, can keep six months to a year because the oily germ has been taken out. Stone-ground cornmeal makes better cornbread, but it keeps the germ and lasts only about three months in the pantry. For that reason, stone-ground meal belongs in the freezer.

4. Canned Soup and Chili

You’ve probably had that red and white Campbell’s can on the shelf since before you can remember, and it feels like the one thing that’ll outlive everything around it. It won’t. The tomato in it is acidic enough to wear through the lining like any other high-acid can, which puts it at twelve to eighteen months of real quality.

Cream and cheese soups do worse, since the dairy fat separates and goes stale faster than the acid can even get going. The broth-only kinds outlast both by a wide margin, so a case of plain chicken or beef broth earns its shelf space better than the chunky ready-to-eat cans you usually grab.

If you already have The Lost Super Foods, flip to page 133 and you’ll find the best marinara sauce recipe you’ll ever taste, made in a way nobody would guess from looking at it. What matters here is that it holds for 20 years without a can or a fridge, and I’m still working through a batch I put up seven years ago on the nights I don’t feel like cooking. Soups, stews, pizza at home, it all starts from that one recipe. 

3. Sauerkraut

Store-bought sauerkraut sits in a salty, acidic brine that keeps bacteria out, and the USDA groups it with other high-acid canned foods at twelve to eighteen months. Then again, that same acid softens the cabbage and works on the can or lid over time. Older kraut turns mushy, and the lid can start rusting from the inside.

Back in the Great War nobody would touch anything with a German name on the label, so the grocers renamed it overnight and families kept making it in crocks anyway. That’s a good reason to try THIS liberty cabbage recipe yourself, since a jar made the old way holds 30 months without ever seeing heat. It stays raw, so the live cultures survive, and those are what settle a sour stomach when no doctor is coming.

2. Crackers

Saltines and butter crackers look bone-dry, but they’re made with shortening or vegetable oil. Unopened sleeves usually hold their quality for about six months, and after that the flavor turns sharp and cardboard-like. Once a sleeve is open, humidity softens them within days, which matters if you’re counting on them.

Instead of stocking up on packs of store bought crackers, you can make the 3-ingredient crackers at home that holds for 20+ years on the shelf. Civil War soldiers carried them in their haversacks, and they were called “the forever crackers” for good reason, since there’s no fat in them to go rancid. You can find the recipe here. 

1. MREs

Companies sell MREs as the ultimate long-term meal, but the military ties their shelf life straight to temperature. At 80°F an MRE only has to hold up three and a half years, at 100°F that drops to nine months, and at the 120°F an attic or parked truck hits in July, you’re down to about a month.

Military cases carry a time-temperature indicator, a small dot whose inner circle darkens as heat adds up, and once it matches the outer ring the meals are done. Civilian brands vary a lot, so moving yours to a cool closet or basement buys back years for free.

Building your own gets around the problem entirely, since you pick what goes in the pouch and skip the fats that cut the shelf life to begin with. The better option is to make MREs that last for 6+ years at home. The whole trick to this is owning a dehydrator, a few Mylar bags and one other thing you won’t find written down anywhere but here.

The Golden Rules of Long-Lasting Foods

Fat, moisture, heat and air are what ruined every item on that countdown, so the date printed on a box was never really about your pantry. But there are a handful of forgotten food preservation techniques that beat all four at once.

They’re still used by Amish families, who have kept meat, eggs, milk and bread on the shelf for hundreds of years, through entire winters, without a refrigerator anywhere in the house. 

Now you can learn their golden rules by enrolling in The Amish Food Canning & Storage Academy before the end of the month. These are well-kept secrets you’d normally only pick up by living inside the Amish community, but right now you have the chance to learn them from home.

Here’s just a glimpse of what you’ll be doing inside this online video course: 

So next time you restock your pantry, keep these rules in mind and make the best out of the survival food you’ve been putting away for years. Rotate what you can, repack what’s worth saving, and let the rest go before it goes on its own. 

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How to Make Clay at Home

Estimated reading time: 8 minutes

Clay is one of those resources that's way more useful than most people realize. With it, you can make pots and bowls for cooking, build an earthen oven, patch walls, seal gaps, and even make simple tools. People have relied on clay for thousands of years, and it's still one of the most practical materials you can have on hand when living off the grid.

The best part is that making your own clay isn't as complicated as you might think. Clay is really just a certain kind of dirt, and there's a good chance there's plenty of it right in your backyard. You just need to know how to recognize it and how to clean it up so it's usable.

I came across a great video on the YouTube channel, Andy Ward's Ancient Pottery, that walks through three different methods for turning dirt into clay, along with when to use each one. You can watch is video and learn about the three methods below.

What Clay Actually Is

Technically speaking, clay is sediment made of super fine particles, even smaller than silt. We're talking less than 0.00016 of an inch. That means not all dirt is going to work equally well. Some dirt is loaded with clay, while other dirt has hardly any in it at all.

That's why some people try making clay from dirt and end up frustrated. If you start with a whole bucket of dirt that doesn't have much clay in it, you might end up with only a handful of usable clay after all that work. Picking the right dirt from the start makes a huge difference.

How to Spot Dirt That's High in Clay

Clay-rich dirt has a few telltale signs you can look for. When it's wet, dirt with a lot of clay in it feels sticky and moldable, kind of like the clay you'd buy at a store. When it's dry, look for tire tracks or footprints that hold their shape for a long time. That's the clay holding everything in place.

Another big clue is a cracked, crackled texture on the surface of the ground. Clay expands when it gets wet and shrinks when it dries out, so when you see that cracked pattern, it usually means there's a good amount of clay in that soil.

Testing Your Dirt Samples

It's a good idea to collect dirt from a few different spots and test each one. Andy grabbed three samples from different places around town.

To test them, crumble each sample into a powder with your hands, then add some water. Once it's wet, you can feel how clay-like it is. Pay attention to how well it sticks to itself, how moldable it is, and how gritty it feels. That tells you how much work it'll take to turn it into usable clay.

Here's what Andy found with his three samples:

• Sample 1 was high in clay and felt nice and moldable, but since it came from an area where people parked their cars, it had bits of plant material and gravel mixed in. It just needed to be screened to get the bigger debris out.
• Sample 2 was nearly pure clay with no rocks or plant material, so it barely needed any processing at all.
• Sample 3 was really gritty and full of gravel, sand, and probably silt. It didn't stick together well, so it needed a lot more work to separate the clay out.

Each of these samples called for a different method, which brings us to the three ways to turn dirt into clay.

Method 1: Screening

Screening is the way to go when your dirt has plenty of clay in it but also has some larger junk mixed in, like rocks, gravel, or bits of plants.

Start by putting the dirt in a bucket and adding water. Mix it up until it's nice and thin, with no lumps. Then pour it through a screen. A strainer works great, but an old piece of window screen or a chunk of screen from the hardware store works just fine, too. If the screen gets gummed up, add a little extra water to help rinse it through.

Now you've got liquid clay, and you'll need to get a lot of that water out. Let the bucket sit for about an hour so the clay settles to the bottom, then pour off the clear water from the top. The clay will still be too wet to work with at this point, so pour it into an old pillowcase and set it out in the sun. Let it dry until it reaches the right consistency.

Method 2: Dry Processing

If you're lucky enough to find dirt that's pretty much pure clay, dry processing is the easiest, fastest, and most efficient method. You don't really have to remove anything from it.

All you have to do is pound it into a powder. Andy just used his concrete driveway and a rock, but you can do this pretty much anywhere. If you'd rather work on a countertop, put down a piece of plywood, a flagstone, or a paver so you're not smashing it directly on the counter. Then use a brick or a rock to gently pound the dirt into powder.

Most clay isn't very hard, so this goes pretty quickly, and it doesn't need to be as fine as flour. If your clay is too wet to grind, set it out somewhere covered (so it doesn't get rained on) and let it dry for a couple of weeks first.

Method 3: Levigation

Levigation is the method to use when your dirt is really gritty and full of sand and silt. It sounds fancy, but it just means using gravity to separate particles by size.

Put the dirt in a bucket, cover it with water, and mix it up well. Reach in with your hands and break up any lumps so everything's mixed in with the water. Then let it sit for just a minute or two. The heavier sand and silt will sink to the bottom, and you can pour the liquid clay off the top into a second bucket.

Repeat this process three, four, or five times, adding more water, mixing, letting it sit for a minute, and pouring off the liquid clay. Keep going until there's mostly just grit left in the first bucket.

At that point, your second bucket is basically pure liquid clay. Let it sit for at least an hour, or even overnight, so the clay settles to the bottom. Then pour off the layer of clear water on top.

The clay will still be way too watery to use, so here's a handy trick to dry it out. Set a few bricks on your patio to form a little trough, lay a piece of cotton cloth over them, and pour the clay in. Moisture will drain out through the bottom of the cloth and evaporate off the top, and by the end of the day, it should be ready to go.

Tempering Clay So It Won't Crack

Once you've made your clay, there's still one more step before you can use it to make pottery. All clay shrinks as it dries, and if it dries unevenly, it'll crack and break. To help it dry more evenly, you need to add something called temper.

Temper is any non-moldable material that you mix into the clay. In store-bought clay, it's usually grog, which is just clay that's been fired and ground up into a powder. You can buy grog or make your own, but sand is often the easiest option since you can find it just about anywhere. Volcanic ash and diatomaceous earth also work well because they're fine and don't react when the clay is fired.

A good ballpark is to add about 20% temper to your clay. One tip: It's a lot easier to mix the temper into dry clay than wet clay. With wet clay, it's harder to measure and you have to knead it in, but with dry clay, you can just stir it around until the sand is mixed throughout. That's why it makes sense to add temper to dry-processed clay before you add water.

Final Thoughts

Making your own clay really is as simple as finding the right dirt and picking the right method to clean it up. If your dirt is mostly clay with some debris, screen it. If it's nearly pure clay, dry process it. And if it's gritty and sandy, levigate it. Add some temper, and you've got clay that's ready for pottery and all kinds of other projects, without spending a dime at the store.

You May Also Like:

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Watergate Salad aka Pistachio Fluff

Watergate Salad aka Pistachio Fluff. Did you grow up eating a Watergate Salad? This is a classic vintage recipe from my mom’s recipe card box. I’m sure this Watergate salad recipe was passed around at church functions in the 1970s, especially at potlucks.

This Watergate Salad has pineapple, pistachio pudding, mini marshmallows, pecans, Cool Whip, and coconut. Then you top it off with a few more pecans; of course, Maraschino cherries are optional. I like to use instant pudding mix since it’s so easy.

It’s creamy, a little sweet, and a little bit tart at the same time. I love this fruit salad because I usually have the ingredients in my pantry and the Cool Whip in the freezer. I can make this delicious salad at the last minute and refrigerate it before serving.

What’s great about this Watergate Salad is that you probably already have most of the ingredients in your pantry and freezer. This salad can be a side dish for a party, church activity, or neighborhood get-together. It can also be served as a dessert salad if you need something special to top off a meal.

All you do is stir the ingredients and refrigerate them for a few hours. You can sprinkle it with chopped pecans and garnish it with a few Maraschino cherries. You’ll love it!

The History Behind Watergate Salad

If you grew up going to church potlucks, family reunions, or holiday dinners, you have probably spotted a big bowl of pale green fluff on the dessert table. Some families call it Pistachio Fluff, some call it Green Stuff, and others know it as Pistachio Delight or Watergate Salad. Whatever name your family used, this sweet, creamy dish has earned a lasting place in American kitchens.

The classic version is about as simple as a recipe gets. Instant pistachio pudding mix, crushed pineapple, whipped topping, mini marshmallows, and chopped nuts are stirred together and chilled. Many cooks finish it with a few maraschino cherries on top. That easy, pantry-friendly combination is a big part of why it became such a beloved standby.

Where the Recipe Came From

Most people associate this dish with Jell-O pistachio pudding, which hit store shelves in the mid-1970s. Kraft, the company behind Jell-O, has said it created a recipe called Pistachio Pineapple Delight around that time to help introduce its new pudding flavor, and that recipe eventually appeared on the pudding box.

The full story may be a little older, though. Other brands of pistachio pudding were reportedly available before the Jell-O version, and creamy fruit salads made with whipped topping were already a familiar part of home cooking. Food historians have found pistachio salad recipes in newspapers from the early 1970s that look nearly identical to what we now call Watergate Salad. The idea of mixing cream, nuts, and pineapple goes back even further, with similar recipes appearing in cookbooks as early as the 1920s.

How It Got Its Famous Name

This is where things get fun, because nobody knows for certain how the name came about. Even Kraft has acknowledged that several stories are circulating and cannot confirm any of them.

The most popular story involves a Chicago newspaper food columnist. As the tale goes, she received the Pistachio Pineapple Delight recipe and decided to print it under the catchier name Watergate Salad to grab readers’ attention. Folks then started asking for the recipe by that name. It is a charming story, but the original column and the editor have never been identified, so it is best treated as legend.

Another likely explanation points to a cake. Around the same era, a green dessert known as Watergate Cake was making the rounds, made with pistachio pudding and often a nutty frosting. Because the two desserts shared so many ingredients and that same green color, many believe the salad simply borrowed the cake’s name.

The timing certainly fits. The Watergate scandal dominated the news in the early to mid 1970s, and it seems the name caught the public’s imagination just as pistachio pudding desserts were becoming popular. One thing we can say with confidence is that the Watergate Hotel itself had nothing to do with the recipe. Unlike some dishes named after famous hotels or restaurants, this one was not created there.

Why It Has Lasted

Whatever the true origin, both the name and the recipe stuck. Watergate Salad has been a fixture at potlucks, picnics, and holiday tables for decades, and in many homes it has become a cherished Easter tradition.

I think it has lasted because it checks every box a busy mom cares about. It relies on shelf-stable ingredients you can keep in your pantry, comes together in minutes with no baking, feeds a crowd, and brings back sweet memories for so many of us. That is exactly the kind of recipe worth keeping in your back pocket.

Why We Love The Watergate Salad

• The green color comes from the Pistachio Pudding mixed with pineapple juice.
• The Cool Whip gives it a creamy texture. Whipped cream can be the whipped topping if you want to take the time.
• The mini marshmallows give it that fluffy, fruit-salad taste and additional texture.
• The crushed pineapple gives you that first sweet, yummy bite.
• The chopped pecans and Maraschino cherries are frostings on the salad.
• We particularly love this salad in the summer, since it helps cool us off with its flavor and the fridge’s temperature.
• It’s a great salad for any holiday.

Watergate Salad

Ingredients

• Crushed Pineapple
• Pistachio Instant Pudding
• Mini-Marshmallows
• Cool Whip
• Sweetened Coconut
• Pecans

Step One: Drain the Pineapple

Drain the pineapple, and set the juice aside.

Step Two: Combine Pudding and Juice

Combine the pudding with the pineapple juice in a large mixing bowl and whisk until smooth. It’ll start to thicken a little bit.

Step Three: Chop the Pecans

Chop the pecans with a food chopper. I used my Food Chopper, which I’ve had for years, to chop these.

Step Four: Combine Ingredients

In the large bowl, stir in the pineapple, coconut, and mini marshmallows. Now, fold in the thawed CoolWhip and combine the ingredients thoroughly, except for the chopped pecans.

Step Five: Chill 2 Hours

Chill for at least 2 hours, preferably 4 hours. Sprinkle the chopped pecans on top and garnish with a Maraschino cherry. 

How do I store this Watergate Salad?

I store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Can I freeze this salad?

I wouldn’t recommend freezing it; fresh is best.

How long can I safely store this salad in the refrigerator?

A Watergate salad is a fruit salad, so I would say 3 to 5 days at the most.

What is in Pistachio Pudding?

I quote Wikipedia: “Pistachio pudding is a green pudding made from pistachio nuts and occasionally contains small chunks of almonds.”

Watergate or Pistachio Salad Recipe

Print

Watergate Salad aka Pistachio Fluff

Course Salad

Cuisine American

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Cook Time 0 minutes minutes

Refrigerator 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours 10 minutes minutes

Servings 6 people

Author Linda Loosli

Ingredients

• 1 can 20-ounce crushed pineapple with juice
• 1 package 3.4-ounce box Pistachio Instant Pudding
• 1-1/2 cups mini-marshmallows
• 1-1/2 cups Cool Whip, thawed
• 1 cup sweetened shredded coconut
• 1/2 cup pecans, finely chopped
• maraschino cherries (optional)

Instructions

• Drain the pineapple juice from the crushed pineapple pieces.
• Combine the pudding with the pineapple juice and whisk until smooth.
• Stir in the pineapple, coconut, and mini marshmallows.
• Now, fold in the thawed Cool Whip and combine the ingredients.
• Chill for at least 2 hours, preferably 4 hours.
• Sprinkle the chopped pecans on top and garnish with a Maraschino cherry. 

What are some other names for this salad?

This salad has been known by a bunch of other names over the years as listed below:

• Pistachio Delight
• Shut the Gate Salad
• Green Goop
• Scandalous Watergate Salad
• Green Goop
• Pistachio Salad
• Green Goddess
• Green Stuff
• Green Fluff
• Mean Green
• Pistachio-Pineapple Delight
• Ambrosia Salad

You may be wondering why this is called the Watergate Salad. Often, people try to capitalize on current events to draw attention to their authored work. As the story goes, the individual or company that created the recipe felt it would gain more appeal by referencing Watergate, a scandal near its first publication. General Foods, which has now merged into Kraft Heinz, first published the recipe.

See below the quote from Wikipedia for a reference to events in the 1970s that prompted the name.

“The Watergate scandal was a major political scandal that occurred in the United States during the early 1970s, following a break-in by five men at the Democratic National Committee (DNC) headquarters at the Watergate office complex in Washington, D.C. on June 17, 1972, and President Richard Nixon’s administration’s subsequent attempt to cover up its involvement.”

Watergate Cake Recipe

Final Word

I love sharing recipes like this Watergate Salad to teach the world how fun it is to eat at home. Please stock your pantry and freezer as you can afford. Let’s introduce the world to being prepared today, not next year. Thanks again for being prepared for the unexpected. Please keep prepping! May God bless this World, Linda

Copyright Images: Watergate Salad Pistachio Fluff AdobeStock_133153427 By Brent Hofacker

The post Watergate Salad aka Pistachio Fluff appeared first on Food Storage Moms.

from Food Storage Moms

Portable Phone Charger – How to Pick One That Still Works When the Grid Goes Down

When the lights go out, your phone stops being a toy and becomes your radio, flashlight, map, medical reference, and the only way to tell your family you are alive. Most phones die in a day or less of hard use. A portable phone charger is what stands between a working lifeline and a dead slab of glass.

The problem is that most people buy the wrong one, or buy the right one and let it sit dead in a drawer. This guide covers how to read the numbers on the box, which types of chargers earn a place in a prepper’s kit, how to keep them safe, and how to build a backup system that keeps a phone running for days instead of hours.

Why a Portable Phone Charger Belongs in Every Kit

Federal health officials keep the advice simple: charge your phone and devices before a storm hits, because once the power drops you are living on stored energy. A wall outlet is useless in an outage, and a phone at 100 percent can still be flat by the second evening if you are checking weather and texting family.

A charged power bank turns that single day into several. It also covers situations that have nothing to do with the grid, like a breakdown on a back road, a wrong turn on a trail, or a hospital waiting room with no free outlet.

Think of it the way you think about water storage. You do not wait for the tap to run dry before filling jugs, and you should not wait for the outage to start charging your backup power.

Reading the Numbers: mAh, Watt-Hours and Real Capacity

Every portable charger is rated in milliamp-hours (mAh), and that number is where most buyers stop thinking. It is a useful starting point, but it does not tell you how many times the bank will actually refill your phone.

Convert mAh to Watt-Hours

The more honest measure is watt-hours (Wh), which accounts for voltage. The FAA’s spare battery packing guidance gives the formula: multiply volts by amp-hours. Most power banks use 3.7-volt lithium cells, so a 10,000mAh bank holds about 37Wh and a 20,000mAh bank about 74Wh.

Watt-hours matter for two reasons. They let you compare banks fairly, and they decide whether you can carry a bank onto a plane, which we cover further down.

Expect to Lose About a Third

No power bank delivers its full rated capacity to your phone. Energy is lost stepping the cell voltage up to USB output, lost as heat, and lost again inside the phone’s own charging circuit.

A reasonable rule of thumb is that you will get roughly 60 to 70 percent of the label. Modern smartphones carry batteries in the 3,000 to 5,000mAh range, so a 10,000mAh bank realistically gives one and a half to two full charges, and a 20,000mAh bank gives three to four.

Match Capacity to the Job

• 5,000 to 10,000mAh: everyday carry in a pocket or purse, enough to get you through one bad day.
• 20,000 to 27,000mAh: get-home bag, vehicle kit, or a weekend-long outage.
• Portable power stations of several hundred watt-hours: multi-day outages, whole households, and powered medical devices.

The Main Types of Portable Phone Chargers

Not all chargers are built for the same situation. A serious kit uses more than one type, because each has a weakness the others cover.

Standard Power Banks

This is the workhorse: a sealed lithium battery you charge from the wall and drain into your phone later. It is the fastest, most reliable way to put power back into a phone, and it is where most of your budget should go.

For everyday carry, a compact 10,000mAh unit like the Anker PowerCore 10000 or the lightweight Nitecore NB10000 disappears into a jacket pocket. For a home or vehicle kit, step up to something like the Anker 737 Power Bank (24,000mAh), which can also run a laptop or tablet.

Look for USB-C Power Delivery (PD) on any new bank. It charges modern phones faster and lets the bank itself refill much quicker, which matters when grid power comes back for only a few hours at a time.

Solar Chargers and Solar Power Banks

Solar is the only option that refills itself without fuel or muscle, which is why it gets so much attention in prepping circles. It also gets oversold.

Mississippi State University Extension notes that it takes eight to 10 hours of direct sunlight to fully charge a solar charger, and that is for small, dedicated units. The postage-stamp panels built into many “solar power banks” are far slower, better described as a trickle that slows the drain than a real recharge source.

The setup that actually works is a separate foldable panel feeding a regular power bank. A panel in the 20 to 30 watt range, such as the BigBlue SolarPowa 28 or a Goal Zero Nomad panel, harvests far more energy than any built-in cell, and the power bank stores it for night use. Our guide to rechargeable batteries for preppers uses the same buffer idea: charge the bank from the sun by day, then charge your devices from the bank after dark.

Hand-Crank Chargers

Crank chargers work when nothing else does: no sun, no fuel, and a dead bank. The catch is output, since the same extension guidance says several minutes of cranking produces enough power for a short call, not a full charge.

That makes a crank a last-resort tool, not a primary one. The smartest way to own one is built into an emergency weather radio with a USB port, like the Eton FRX3, so the same crank also keeps you tuned to NOAA weather broadcasts.

AA Battery Chargers

These are simple cases that hold AA batteries and push their power out through a USB port. Extension specialists put their output at roughly 20 to 60 minutes of phone charging, depending on the unit.

They make sense if you already stock AA batteries for flashlights and radios, because one battery supply covers everything. If you are ever caught with nothing at all, our older piece on how to charge your phone when there is no electricity walks through an improvised 9-volt battery method.

Vehicle Charging and Jump Starters

Your car or truck is a large battery on wheels. A quality 12V USB-C car charger turns it into a phone charger, and many portable jump starters, such as the NOCO Boost GB40, have USB ports built in.

Run the engine only outdoors in open air. The CDC warns never to run a car or truck inside an attached garage, even with the door open, and outages are exactly when people make that mistake trying to stay warm while they charge.

Also keep an eye on the car battery itself. Draining it to charge phones and then finding the vehicle will not start is a classic outage mistake.

Portable Power Stations

A power station is a lunchbox-sized battery with AC outlets, USB ports, and a solar input. Units like the Jackery Explorer 300 or Anker SOLIX C300 hold roughly 290Wh, enough to recharge a typical phone more than a dozen times.

They are heavy and expensive compared to a power bank, so they are a home-base tool rather than a pocket item. If someone in your house depends on a CPAP or another powered medical device, though, a power station moves from luxury to necessity.

What to Look for When Buying

Once you know the type you need, a few details separate a reliable charger from a dud or a fire hazard.

• Safety certification. OSHA’s guidance on lithium devices stresses using batteries and chargers tested to a recognized standard such as UL 2054 and certified by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory, so look for a UL or ETL mark on the bank itself, not just the box.
• Proper battery management. CPSC staff point to UL 2056, a safety outline written specifically for power banks, and recommend packs with charge control and short-circuit protection built in.
• USB-C PD input and output. It is faster in both directions and it is the standard every new phone uses.
• Pass-through charging. This lets the bank charge your phone while the bank itself is plugged in, which is handy when power returns in short bursts.
• Capacity printed in watt-hours. Reputable makers list Wh on the case, and if you cannot find it, be suspicious of the mAh claim too.
• Physical toughness. A rubberized or sealed bank survives a bug-out bag far better than a glossy one.

Be skeptical of no-name banks with huge capacity claims at bargain prices. Cheap cells and missing protection circuits are exactly what you do not want in a device that sits next to your body.

Portable Charger Safety: Heat, Cold and Recalls

Lithium batteries are safe when they are well made and treated right. When they fail, they fail hard, with fire and toxic smoke.

The danger is not theoretical. In 2026 the Consumer Product Safety Commission reannounced a recall of about 429,200 Casely wireless power banks after reports that included a woman who later died from burns when a bank caught fire on her lap while charging her phone. Check every bank you own against CPSC recall notices, and stop using one immediately if it shows up.

Temperature Rules

OSHA notes that lithium batteries can be damaged at temperatures above 130°F, and that charging lithium-ion cells below freezing can cause permanent internal damage. Both numbers matter for preppers who keep gear in vehicles, sheds, and bug-out bags.

Do not leave power banks on a dashboard in summer, and do not charge a bank that has been sitting in a frozen car until it has warmed up indoors. In winter, carry your everyday bank in an inside pocket where body heat keeps it usable.

Warning Signs

Retire any power bank that bulges, cracks, hisses, leaks, smells odd, or gets hot while idle. Move it away from anything flammable, ideally outdoors or into a metal container.

Never charge a bank under a pillow, on a bed, or on your lap overnight. A hard, non-flammable surface gives you time to react if something goes wrong, and a fireproof LiPo safe bag is cheap insurance for storing spares.

Flying With a Portable Phone Charger

If your get-home plan includes air travel, your charger has to make it through security. The TSA states that power banks containing lithium-ion batteries must be packed in carry-on bags, never in checked luggage.

Capacity limits come from the FAA watt-hour rules covered earlier: banks up to 100Wh are allowed, 101 to 160Wh need airline approval with a maximum of two, and anything larger is forbidden. A 20,000mAh bank sits around 74Wh and flies without trouble, but some airlines now add their own stricter limits, so check before you go.

Storing and Maintaining Your Chargers

A dead power bank is just dead weight. The most common charger failure in an outage is not a broken unit, it is one nobody remembered to charge.

Charge Level and Rotation

For long-term storage, lithium banks are happiest at partial charge rather than full or empty, kept in a cool, dry spot. Check and top off stored banks every two to three months, and charge everything to full the moment a storm shows up in the forecast.

Put the check on a calendar, or tie it to something you already do, like rotating stored water or testing smoke alarms. Banks that get used now and then also tend to stay healthier than ones that sit untouched for years.

Cables and Adapters

A charger without the right cable is useless. Keep a short, sturdy braided USB-C cable rubber-banded to every bank, plus whatever cable older family phones need.

Store a spare cable and a 12V car adapter in each vehicle kit. Cables fail far more often than batteries do.

Disposal

When a bank reaches the end of its life, do not toss it in the trash or curbside recycling. The EPA advises taping the terminals and taking lithium batteries to a dedicated recycling or household hazardous waste collection point, because crushed lithium cells start fires in garbage trucks and sorting facilities.

Stretch Every Charge: Phone Power Discipline

The best power bank in the world will not save a phone that is burning through its battery hunting for a signal. Power discipline roughly doubles the value of everything you have stored.

• Turn on Low Power Mode or Battery Saver at the first sign of an outage.
• Drop screen brightness and close background apps.
• Use airplane mode when you do not need a signal, especially where coverage is weak, since searching for a tower drains the battery fast.
• Text instead of calling. Extension specialists point out that short texts use less battery than voice calls and are more likely to get through crowded networks.
• Download offline maps and key documents ahead of time so you are not streaming them during the emergency.

Building a Layered Phone Power Plan

No single portable phone charger covers every scenario. The goal is layers, so that when one fails, the next one picks up the load.

Layer 1: Everyday Carry

A 5,000 to 10,000mAh bank and a cable, on you or in your bag every day. It covers the roadside breakdown and the first evening of an outage.

Layer 2: Home and Vehicle Reserve

Two or more 20,000mAh banks at home, kept charged, plus one in each vehicle with a 12V adapter. That is several days of phone power for a household before you touch anything renewable.

Layer 3: Renewable Recharge

A foldable solar panel to refill the banks, and a crank radio with USB output as the fallback when the sky stays gray. This is the layer that stretches days into weeks.

Layer 4: Heavy Backup (Optional)

A portable power station makes sense if your household is large, you work from home, or anyone relies on powered medical equipment. Pair it with a larger solar panel and it can carry the whole family’s electronics through an extended outage.

When the Power Goes Out, Will You Know How to Survive Without It?

A fully charged power bank might keep your phone running for a few extra days. But what happens when the outage lasts a week? Or longer? What will you do when your batteries are empty, fuel is scarce, and the systems you depend on stop working?

Real self-sufficiency isn’t just about having the right emergency gear. It’s about having the skills to survive when that gear is no longer enough.

That’s exactly why The Lost Skills of Independence deserves a place in your preparedness library.

This practical guide explores the forgotten knowledge and traditional skills that helped previous generations live with far less dependence on modern conveniences.

Discover how to:

• Become less dependent on the electrical grid by learning practical, old-fashioned solutions for everyday needs.
• Prepare for extended emergencies when electricity, communication networks, and essential services become unreliable.
• Develop practical self-reliance skills that can help you make better use of the resources you already have.
• Build a more resilient household by reducing your dependence on fragile supply chains and modern infrastructure.
• Rediscover traditional know-how that can prove invaluable when modern conveniences disappear.

A portable charger is an excellent first step in emergency preparedness. But batteries eventually run out, and no single device can replace the confidence that comes from knowing how to take care of yourself and your family.

The best survival tool isn’t something you plug into a wall. It’s the knowledge you carry with you.

Don’t wait for the next blackout to discover how much you depend on electricity.

Get The Lost Skills of Independence today and start building a life that’s better prepared for whatever tomorrow brings.

Discover The Lost Skills of Independence Here!

Final Thoughts

A portable phone charger is one of the cheapest, most practical preps you can buy, and one of the easiest to neglect. Buy quality, understand what the numbers really mean, keep it charged, and back it up with a way to refill it.

Do that, and when the grid drops, your phone stays what it should be in a crisis: a working link to information, help, and the people you care about.

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How the Russian Plague Scare Could Affect You

Back in early 2020, plenty of folks watched a strange pneumonia story out of China and figured it was half a world away. A few weeks later, the pharmacy shelves were bare, and the experts on TV were still telling everyone not to worry. So it’s no surprise that a death at a Siberian plague lab has a lot of people feeling that same knot in their stomach.

Some are already calling it “the Russian Covid”, and even though nothing has been confirmed, the way this story keeps shifting deserves a hard look.

What Really Happened in That Lab

Daria Shipilova, a 28-year-old technician at the Irkutsk Anti-Plague Research Institute of Siberia and the Far East, died on October 2, and authorities quarantined the hospital in Shelekhov and put 197 of her contacts under medical observation. Officials described the cause as pneumonia of unknown origin, and for a few days that was all the public got.

What Happens to YOUR Prescription Drugs If the Medicare Plan Disappears in 2027? 

The local version of events didn’t match for long. A Russian news outlet reported that she died of plague, possibly after contracting it from a broken test tube. Also, the head of the neighboring Buryatia republic posted that she had died of an unspecified form of plague. Russia’s health watchdog pushed back hard, and it said extensive testing found no microorganisms connected to her work.

Later, the World Health Organization said Moscow told it no case of plague had been registered, although Reuters couldn’t establish whether that meant plague was ruled out in her case.

Why This Feels Like 2020 All Over Again

A lab that studies dangerous germs and a young worker dead from a mystery pneumonia make a combination anyone who lived through 2020 will recognize. Back then, the idea of a lab leak in Wuhan was brushed off as a crazy theory, and years later several U.S. agencies said it was the likely source. So people have good reason to doubt a government that first spoke of a “particularly dangerous infection” and then insisted nothing went wrong.

The details coming out of Irkutsk don’t help either. After her death, more than 60 institute employees were reportedly barred from leaving the building, and a local aluminum plant made masks mandatory the next day. Steps like that rarely happen over an ordinary case of pneumonia, and folks in Siberia noticed.

The details coming out of Irkutsk don’t help either. After her death, more than 60 institute employees were reportedly barred from leaving the building. The next day, a large aluminum factory in Shelekhov, the town where she was treated, ordered every worker to wear a mask on the job. That factory has nothing to do with the lab, so the order told locals that someone in charge feared the illness could spread from person to person.

Those sudden mask orders probably bring back a few memories of your own. In March 2020 and the item you couldn’t find anywhere, whether it was toilet paper, Tylenol or a simple box of masks. You probably remember standing in that empty aisle and wishing you’d bought it two weeks earlier.

So this time, make sure you already have the 11 things that will vanish within 48 hours of an outbreak. Nobody knows if another pandemic will hit the U.S., but you can make sure it doesn’t catch your your family empty-handed again.

Why Pneumonic Plague Worries Doctors the Most

Plague comes from a bacterium called Yersinia pestis, which still lives in wild rodents and their fleas across parts of Siberia. Most people picture the bubonic form from the Black Death, where fleas do the spreading and the lymph nodes swell up. Pneumonic plague works differently, because it infects the lungs and the patient coughs out infectious droplets that can reach other people.

Left untreated, the pneumonic form is almost always fatal, and it can kill within days. The good news is that common antibiotics like doxycycline and ciprofloxacin work against it.

Antibiotics only help if you can get them in time, though, and a plague scare is exactly when that gets hard. Picture a fever climbing past 103 at 2 a.m., with the urgent care turning people away and the ER line ringing busy. Would you know what to do in the first 24 hours of a life-threating fever, or would you be pacing the hallway waiting for a callback? The right first aid can keep someone stable until help gets through. And while nothing beats antibiotics and a doctor, those first hours are in your hands. 

The Shortages That Could Reach Your Town First

Even if this never turns into an outbreak, a big scare can empty shelves all on its own. In 2020, N95 masks disappeared within weeks, and pharmacies ran short of fever reducers as people stocked up. A plague headline would put that same pressure on doxycycline and ciprofloxacin, because those are the first drugs people would go looking for.

Worse, a large share of the raw ingredients for American generic antibiotics comes from China and India, so trouble overseas shows up at the pharmacy counter here.

And it won’t stop at antibiotics. If you take a daily pill for your heart, your blood pressure or your blood sugar, picture the pharmacist telling you the next shipment is “a few weeks out” while your bottle runs dry. So at your next checkup, say THIS to your doctor before the next shortage hits, and you could walk out with far more than a single month of pills. 

Plague Has Been in America All Along

Plague never left the United States, and the CDC records an average of about seven human cases every year. Most of them happen in the rural West, especially northern New Mexico, northern Arizona and southern Colorado, with some in California, Oregon and Nevada. The bacteria live in prairie dogs, ground squirrels and wood rats, and their fleas carry it to people and pets.

Cats are especially vulnerable, and an infected cat can pass the pneumonic form to its owner by coughing. So for anyone on a homestead or near open country, the real risk may sit closer to home than Siberia.

Treating dogs and cats for fleas year-round and never handling a dead rodent barehanded help a lot, but there’s an ingenious rodent trap you can make to stop the problem before fleas ever reach the porch:

The Symptoms That Can’t Wait Until Morning

Pneumonic plague typically develops one to three days after exposure. The most alarming symptoms include:

• Coughing up blood-streaked mucus, sometimes pink, watery, or frothy.
• Rapidly worsening shortness of breath, breathing can become severely difficult within hours.
• Sharp chest pain, especially when coughing or taking deep breaths.
• A rapidly worsening cough, which may begin dry before producing mucus.
• Sudden high fever and intense chills, often appearing abruptly.
• Extreme weakness and exhaustion, sometimes making it difficult to stand or perform normal activities.
• Rapid breathing – the body struggles to get enough oxygen.
• Blue or gray lips and fingertips – a late, critical sign of dangerously low oxygen levels.

The biggest warning sign is how quickly symptoms worsen. Not everyone coughs up blood, and these symptoms can occur with other serious illnesses. Suspected pneumonic plague requires immediate emergency medical care.

How a Quarantine Could Look in Your Own Home

If an outbreak ever reached the U.S., the first order from officials would likely be to stay home, and the grocery stores would be packed that same afternoon. Having two to four weeks of food, water and regular medications already in the house keeps you out of a crowded checkout line, breathing the same air as everyone else.

You’ll also want a sick room, ideally a bedroom with its own bathroom where you can care for one family member apart from the rest. With plastic sheeting, tape and a few cheap supplies, you can turn a spare bedroom into an isolation room in a single afternoon and stop one illness from spreading through the whole house. And while things are still calm, ask your doctor about keeping a course of antibiotics on hand, because that conversation gets much harder in the middle of a panic.

Why Siberia Is Worth Watching from Here

Russia has stayed tight-lipped about what killed a young lab worker, and that silence alone keeps the story alive. President Trump called her death a “big problem for Russia,” so Washington is clearly paying attention too. For now, the WHO has no confirmed plague case, and local officials say 60 percent of the people placed under quarantine have already been released.

Even so, 2020 taught us that the best time to get ready is while the story still sounds far away.

Dr. Maybell Nieves, one of the doctors who wrote The Home Doctor, spent years treating patients after her country’s hospitals and pharmacies ran out of medicine, electricity and running water. With nothing new coming in, her team had to rely on expired drugs, and they found that many of them kept working for years past the date on the label. A few of them turn dangerous with age, though, and telling them apart can matter a great deal once your local pharmacy can’t restock.

Don’t have The Home Doctor yet? You should, and here’s why:

• It’s 304 pages written and approved by doctors, made for the days when help is not on the way and the ER is no longer an option.
• You’ll get a simple at-home protocol for the flu and other respiratory illnesses, for when a trip to the hospital is off the table.
• It covers the 4 antibiotics worth keeping at home and why having all four matters, with a reminder to talk to a doctor before taking any of them.
• It shows the 10 cheap medical supplies that vanish first once panic buying starts, so you can get them while the shelves are still full.
• Doctors share what they do to keep their own immunity strong after close contact with sick patients, so you can stay on your feet while caring for a loved one.
• Reveals the legal, safe way to build up extra prescription medicine, even insulin, before the next shortage hits.

Nobody can say yet whether that lab in Irkutsk will turn into a footnote or the first chapter of something much bigger. But you already know how fast things moved in 2020, from a few odd headlines to empty pharmacies in a matter of weeks.

This time, you have the chance to watch from your own porch with the medicine cabinet stocked and a plan in place, while everyone else is still waiting to be told what to do. 

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