DIY Rambo Survival Jacket

I watched First Blood for the first time on a hand-me-down VHS tape when I was maybe ten years old, and like every other kid in my neighborhood, I wanted that jacket. Not for the movie poster look, but for everything hidden inside it – a knife, a fire kit, cordage, all of it built right into the gear.

Now, twenty years later, I finally sat down and built one for real, and it turns out most of it takes a needle, some thread, and an afternoon.

Not Every Jacket Deserves This

 The jacket has to earn the work you’re about to put into it. Heavy canvas or waxed cotton takes a needle without shredding, and it holds up to actual weather instead of just looking rugged on a hanger. 

An old military field jacket, the kind surplus stores sell for the price of a decent dinner, beats almost anything off a department store rack for this project.

An M-65, a Carhartt Detroit jacket, or anything with a genuinely waxed canvas shell all give you that room without having to hunt through a dozen brands to find one that works. 

It already has a liner set apart from the shell, and the gap between them is where the entire build lives. A slim, athletic cut works against you here. If there’s no room between the outer fabric and the lining, there’s no room for anything you’re about to hide inside it.

What You’ll Actually Need Before You Start

A regular sewing needle won’t make it through waxed canvas or a lined field jacket without bending, so it’s worth setting yourself up with the right tools before you cut into anything:

• Heavy-duty upholstery needle – a standard needle bends or snaps against waxed canvas and thick lining, but this one doesn’t.
• Waxed nylon or polyester thread – holds up under the constant flexing every pocket seam takes once the jacket’s actually being worn.
• Awl – punches a starting hole through the thicker layers around the collar and seams so the needle isn’t fighting the fabric.
• Thimble – saves your thumb after the first dozen stitches, which is about when you’ll start feeling it.
• Seam ripper – for redoing any stitching you rushed the first time.

My first attempt at the blade sheath came apart after two days of walking because I’d rushed the stitching, and picking it out to redo it properly took longer than sewing it right.

---

Never Leave Home Without Timber in Your Pockets!
Click Here to Find Out Why!

---

Where a Pat-Down Never Looks 

Every hidden pocket in this jacket starts the same way: a slit cut into the lining, never the shell, following a seam that’s already there. A pouch of matching fabric sewn behind the slit makes the pocket disappear completely from the outside.

Also, a strip of hook-and-loop tape across the opening keeps it shut and keeps whatever’s inside from sliding around while you move.

The same slit-and-pouch approach works along the inside of the chest, across the lower back, and down both inner sleeves, giving you four storage points built into a jacket that still looks like an ordinary field coat on a hanger. 

A Blade You Reach for Without Looking

For this part, you need to sew a short fixed blade into its own sheath along the inside seam near the collar, angled so it’s within reach of one hand without ever needing to glance down. To keep it from rattling or shifting while you walk, fold a stiff scrap of leather or heavy canvas into a tight pouch and stitch it in place around the blade. 

Three to four inches is plenty. Anything longer prints through the fabric and gives away exactly what you’re carrying. I centered the handle on my first version and ended up hating it, since reaching straight up isn’t how your hand actually moves in a hurry. If you angle it slightly toward your dominant side makes the draw feel natural instead of like something you have to think about. 

That being said, let’s talk about what type of knives you would need for such a cool jacket.

Two styles work well here: a drop-point fixed blade for everyday cutting, or a flatter neck-knife style blade that disappears better under fabric but won’t hold an edge as long. For the full lineup, check out 7 Types of Knives to Have for Survival – chances are a few of those are the perfect Rambo blades for your jacket.

Keep in mind that concealed blade rules vary quite a bit by state, so it’s worth a quick check on your local knife laws before you decide how big to make this pocket.

The Fire Kit in the Collar

Nobody thinks to check a collar, which makes it one of the better spots on the entire jacket. 

Matches look great in movies, but anyone who’s tried to strike one with cold, shaking hands knows the truth. Wind kills the flame before it catches, rain turns the box to mush, and you get one shot before you’re out. A lighter fixes most of that. It works in a stiff breeze, survives a soaking better, and gives you hundreds of strikes instead of a couple dozen.

But getting a flame going is only half the problem. The other half is making it last. That’s where a DIY charcoal briquette earns its spot in the jacket. Soak charcoal (or cotton balls, dryer lint, even sawdust) in melted wax and you’ve got a firestarter that catches fast once you touch a flame to it, then holds an ember and burns slow and steady for a long time after that. Pack a few in a waterproof pocket and you’ve got fuel that survives the elements even when your lighter runs low.

That’s the real setup: a lighter to get the fire going, a charcoal-wax briquette to keep it going long after a match alone would’ve burned out.

An Invisible Filter Straw 

A filter straw is basically a short tube you drink through, and it strains out bacteria and protozoa as the water passes – so you can drink from a stream, pond, or ditch without getting sick. It’s the one piece of gear you can’t improvise out in the field, which is exactly why it belongs on your body instead of in a pack you might not have on you.

Here’s how it goes in. Turn the sleeve inside out and lay the straw flat against the lining, running from the wrist up toward the elbow. Mark a line on each side of it, leaving about a quarter inch of slack, then sew along both marks. Those two lines of stitching form a narrow tube that holds the straw snug against the sleeve. To keep it from sliding out, stitch a small loop of elastic at each end and slip the straw through both loops before you turn the sleeve right side out.

You know what else pairs well with that filter straw? It only helps if there’s water nearby, so it’s worth having the Cloud in a Box for the times there isn’t. It’s a DIY build, so it won’t cost you much, and it’s light enough to carry in a backpack. Once it’s running, you get water continuously instead of rationing what’s left and hoping you find a stream. In a SHTF situation, the jacket and this device together take a lot of the worry off your plate.

Fifteen Feet of Cordage, Hidden in a Drawstring

Paracord doesn’t need a pocket of its own. Pull the factory drawstrings out of the waist and hood, then thread paracord back through in their place, and you’re carrying ten to fifteen feet of cordage on a jacket that still ties and cinches exactly the way it always did. 

The reason this works so well is that nobody glances at a drawstring twice, so it stays useful without ever looking like gear. 

Signal for Help Straight From Your Sleeve

Sew a flat pocket into one cuff, just big enough for a compact signal mirror and a plastic whistle, and it won’t throw off the sleeve’s weight or catch on anything while you move.

That placement matters because on the day you actually need to be found, you might be hurt, cold, or pinned down – and none of those are conditions where digging through a pack is realistic.

How to weatherproof the Seams You Just Sewed

Fresh stitching is the first place water gets in, so this part matters more than it sounds. Every needle hole you made is a hole water can follow, and there are a lot of them by now.

• Clean the jacket first – wax and spray won’t bond to dirt or old grime, so wash it and let it dry completely before you start.
• Work the seams from the inside out – rub wax directly into the stitch lines with your fingers or a cloth, pushing it into the holes rather than just coating the surface.
• Heat-set the wax – a hairdryer on medium melts it into the fibers instead of leaving it sitting on top. You’ll see the fabric darken slightly where it takes.
• Second coat on the new seams only – the rest of the shell is fine with one pass, but every seam you added needs another.
• Let it cure 24 to 48 hours – somewhere warm and dry, hanging, not folded.

Then test it before you trust it. Hold the jacket under a running tap for a minute and check the inside of each pocket with your hand. A jacket that looks dry standing in your closet can still soak straight through if the wax never had time to set, and you’d rather find that out at the sink than three miles out.

---

The Rambo jacket is just the beginning…
Go pick your next project on lostskills-of-independence.com

It’s packed with weekend projects built the same way: tough, unexpensive and worth your time. 

---

When to Stop Adding Pockets

It’s tempting to keep going once you realize how much space a jacket like this can hide. The mistake shows up a few weeks in, when the jacket hangs wrong on one side or wears on you by the second hour of wearing it.

Weight spread evenly across both sides of your body, with anything heavy like the blade kept close to your core rather than down near the hem, keeps the jacket from pulling in one direction. There’s always room for one more pocket. Whether you need one more pocket is a different question. 

Mine ended up about six ounces heavier once everything was loaded in, which doesn’t sound like much until you notice it changing how the jacket sits on your shoulders somewhere around hour two. Noticing that is what tells you you’ve gone far enough.

Ten-year-old me wanted the costume. What I actually built does more for me now than that movie prop ever could, and the only thing anyone sees when I walk past them on a trail is a guy in a plain field jacket.

---

You may also like:

DIY Indiana Jones Real-Life Survival Belt

TOP 4 Tinctures You Must Stockpile (VIDEO)

How to Make “Cowboy Black Powder” at Home

Best Prepper Books – 9 (+1) Books To Survive ANY Crisis!

How to Sharpen a Knife Without a Sharpener (7 Survival Methods)

The post DIY Rambo Survival Jacket appeared first on Ask a Prepper.

from Ask a Prepper https://ift.tt/Nfktrlu

How to Store Zucchini From the Garden

Are you wondering how to store zucchini from the garden? As many of my readers know, zucchini is a versatile squash that adds delicious and savory flavor to all sorts of dishes. Some of the most notable ones include pasta, pizza crusts, burgers, meatballs, salads, soups, stews, and one of my personal favorites, zucchini bread! But once your zucchini starts to turn to mush, there’s not a whole lot you can do with it, so you need to learn how to store it before that happens. My garden always produces loads of summer zucchini, and I love making The Very Best Zucchini Cake Recipe!

It has been a standing joke in our family for years that we wish our other garden vegetables were as prolific as our zucchini plants! Yes, our neighbors for blocks around have been the beneficiaries of our generous plants, and we love to share our bounty.

Kitchen Items You May Need

• Cutting Board
• Quart or Pint Wide Mouth Mason Jars
• Mueller Mandoline Pro-Series Slicer

What is zucchini?

Zucchini is a very popular type of summer squash. It’s a long green squash with a mild flavor and tender flesh that has a texture you’ll like to eat. You can actually eat all the zucchini plant parts but the stem. Other types of summer squash you may be familiar with are pattypan, crookneck, and yellow squash. Other types of squash fall into the winter category due to their hard skin and tough seeds, neither of which are typically eaten.

Zucchini is a type of summer squash that belongs to the species Cucurbita pepo. Squash in this species originated in Mesoamerica, in the region that’s now Mexico and Central America, where they were cultivated by native peoples thousands of years ago alongside corn and beans. The zucchini we know today, with its long green shape, was developed later by Italian growers in the 1800s and early 1900s, which is why it carries an Italian name meaning little squash. It became popular in the United States in the twentieth century and is now a common garden vegetable across the country.

Zucchini Nutrition

In terms of nutrition, zucchini is low in calories and high in water content, which makes it a light and refreshing addition to meals. It provides a good amount of vitamin C, which supports the immune system, and vitamin A, which supports eye health. It also contains potassium, which helps regulate blood pressure, along with smaller amounts of folate, manganese, and magnesium. Zucchini has a modest amount of fiber, which supports digestion, and it contains antioxidants such as lutein and zeaxanthin, which are beneficial for eye health. Because it’s mostly water and low in sugar and fat, zucchini is often recommended as part of a balanced diet for those watching their calorie intake.

Home gardeners have many zucchini varieties to choose from, each suited to different tastes and growing spaces.

Traditional Varieties

Black Beauty is one of the most traditional varieties, known for its deep green skin and reliable production throughout the growing season. It’s been a garden favorite for generations because of its consistent yield and classic flavor.

Costata Romanesco is an heirloom variety from Italy, prized by cooks for its nutty flavor and ribbed texture. It tends to be less watery than other types, which makes it a good choice for grilling or sautéing.

Golden zucchini has bright yellow skin and a slightly sweeter, milder taste than the green varieties. It also adds a nice visual contrast when mixed with green squash in garden beds or on the dinner table.

Eight Ball and Roly Poly are round varieties that are popular for stuffing, since their shape naturally forms a bowl once hollowed out. They tend to stay compact, which makes them a good option for smaller garden spaces or container growing.

Cocozelle is another heirloom type, with striped green and light green skin. It has a firm texture and holds up well in cooking, making it a favorite for those who like to slice and roast their squash.

For gardeners with limited space, bush varieties such as Raven or Spineless Beauty are worth considering. These plants grow in a compact form rather than sprawling across the garden, which makes them easier to manage in raised beds or smaller yards.

Zucchini plants generally do best in full sun with well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. They benefit from consistent watering, especially during fruit development, and should be harvested regularly once the fruit reaches about six to eight inches long. Harvesting often encourages the plant to keep producing throughout the season.

Zucchini Pests

Zucchini plants can face several pests and problems throughout the growing season, but most are manageable with early attention and good garden habits.

Squash Bugs

Squash bugs are one of the most common pests. They’re brownish gray insects that cluster on the undersides of leaves and suck sap from the plant, causing leaves to wilt and turn brown. Checking the undersides of leaves regularly and removing egg clusters by hand can help keep them under control before they spread.

Squash Vine Borers

Squash vine borers are another serious threat. The larvae bore into the stem of the plant, which causes sudden wilting even when the soil has plenty of moisture. Gardeners often notice a small hole near the base of the stem with sawdust-like material around it. Wrapping the base of young stems with foil or fabric can help prevent the moth from laying eggs there.

Cucumber Beetles

Cucumber beetles, which are small and either striped or spotted, feed on leaves, flowers, and stems. They can also spread bacterial wilt, a disease that causes the plant to collapse fairly quickly. Row covers placed over young plants can help protect them until the flowers open and pollination needs to occur.

Powdery Mildew-Fungal Problem

Powdery mildew is a common fungal problem, especially in humid conditions. It appears as a white, powdery coating on the leaves and can eventually reduce the plant’s ability to photosynthesize. Good air circulation, spacing plants properly, and watering at the base rather than overhead can reduce the chances of this developing.

Blossom Rot

Blossom-end rot sometimes affects zucchini, showing up as a dark, sunken spot on the bottom of the fruit. This is usually related to inconsistent watering or a calcium imbalance in the soil rather than a pest or disease, and can often be corrected with more even watering.

Aphids

Aphids are small insects that cluster on new growth and the undersides of leaves. They weaken the plant by feeding on its sap and can attract ants due to the sticky residue they leave behind. A strong spray of water or insecticidal soap is often enough to manage a small infestation.

Poor Pollination

Poor pollination is another issue many gardeners encounter, especially early in the season. Zucchini plants produce separate male and female flowers, and without enough bees or other pollinators, the female flowers may drop without producing fruit. Hand pollinating with a small brush is a simple solution if pollinator activity seems low.

Keeping the garden bed clean, rotating crops each year, and monitoring plants regularly are some of the best ways to prevent these problems from taking hold.

Do you have a lot of zucchini and aren’t sure what to do with it? If you’re a fellow gardener like myself and plan on growing several zucchini plants during the growing season, you’ll need to know how to store and keep your zucchini so that they last longer. Here’s how to store zucchini right from your garden so that you can enjoy them even during the winter season.     

• How to Start a Garden
• How to Garden With 5-Gallon Buckets
• 9 Superfoods You Can Grow in Your Garden
• 10 Great Reasons To Try Raised Bed Gardening

Should You Wash Your Zucchini Before Storing?

You’ll receive all kinds of mixed answers on the internet about this bit of advice, but I’d encourage you not to wash your zucchini before storing it, and here’s why. To keep your stored zucchini fresh longer, it’s important to keep it as dry as possible. So, instead of washing, take a paper towel and wipe your zucchini down while making sure all the moisture is removed from the skin, along with any dirt or debris from the garden. Once you’re ready to use them, that’s when the best time to wash them properly is.   

How Long Will Freshly Picked Zucchini Last in the Fridge?

When stored properly in the refrigerator, your freshly picked zucchini will last for up to two weeks. However, if you choose to slice them up into smaller pieces, your zucchini may last for even more than a month. As always, make sure you keep them dry when putting them away and store them in a baggie that’s left open. That way there’s air circulation in the plastic bags and moisture doesn’t start to form, which quickly shortens the life of a zucchini. An airtight container will work to freeze zucchini, but when stored in the fridge, the raw zucchini needs to have fresh air circulating.

Does Zucchini Last Longer on the Counter or in the Fridge?

Whether you choose the counter or the fridge to store your zucchini is entirely up to you, but I’d recommend keeping it in the fridge or a root cellar if you have one. Not only does this help keep your zucchini fresh longer, but it also prevents any bacteria that could form on the outside of the squash. The same goes for storing cut-up pieces. One thing to keep in mind when leaving your squash on the counter is that it will ripen and turn soft faster, which means you’ll want to use them sooner rather than later.

Methods for Preserving Zucchini for Later Use?

Wondering what the easiest way is to preserve zucchini? Once you’ve decided how to store your zucchini, it’s time to preserve it. Zucchini can be preserved using a few different methods. Let’s take a look at some of them so that you can decide which one is the best and easiest for you.

Blanch and Freeze

Considered one of the more popular ways to preserve zucchini, blanching is a quick boiling-water process that kills any bacteria present on the zucchini’s surface. To blanch and freeze your zucchini, first cut them into slices or cubes and boil them for no more than three minutes in salted water. Once finished boiling, drain the zucchini slices or cubes and lay them out on a parchment-lined baking sheet. 

Place the tray in your freezer and let the slices or cubes freeze for two to three hours. Once fully frozen, take single portions of the zucchini out of the tray and store them in freezer bags or containers. The pieces should last up to six months in your freezer!

• 15+ Items Perfect for Freezer Storage
• Which Methods of Food Storage are Correct?

Pickling

Print

Pickling Zucchini Slices

Course Appetizer

Cuisine American

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Servings 4 people

Author Linda Loosli

Ingredients

• 2-3 Firm Small Zucchini (the large ones have too many seeds)
• 1 Cup Vinegar
• 1 Tablespoon Salt per quart of water
• 1 Quart Water

Instructions

• You can also try pickling your zucchini using vinegar as a preservative.  This is a great way to store zucchini for later use in salads, sandwiches, and more!
• To pickle your zucchini, first cut them into thin slices or small cubes.
• Boil a vinegary solution of 1 cup vinegar and 1 tablespoon salt per quart of water, and let the solution cool.
• Place the zucchini slices in jars or airtight containers, pour the cooled vinegar solution over them, and cover with airtight lids.
• Store the pickles in the fridge after they get to room temperature. Let the jars or other containers sit in the refrigerator for two weeks before opening and consuming them.

Dehydrating

Yes, zucchini can also be dehydrated and then rehydrated when you’re ready to use them. To dehydrate your zucchini, cut them into thin slices and lay them out in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Place the tray in an oven preheated to 140°F (60°C) for four to five hours until the zucchini slices become dry and brittle. Once they’re finished dehydrating, let them cool down and place them in an airtight bag or container. The zucchini slices should last up to six months if stored properly. How To Dehydrate Zucchini-Sliced & Cubed

You can also use your dehydrator to dry out the slices. Some people refer to these dried slices as zucchini chips. They can be eaten like other chips with some veggie or fry dip. Delicious!

How to Tell if Zucchini Has Gone Bad

The best way to tell when your zucchini is no longer good to eat is if it’s soft, shriveled, or has a sour smell. If in this condition, it should be disposed of as soon as possible. Additionally, if you see any mold or rotten spots on the zucchini, that means it’s gone bad and shouldn’t be consumed. However, if there are just a few tiny spots or blemishes on your zucchini, simply cut them off and your zucchini should be just fine if eaten relatively soon.

What can you make with zucchini from the garden?

• Zucchini noodles, fresh zoodles
• Zucchini boats
• Favorite soup, just add zucchini
• Chocolate chip zucchini muffins
• Loaves of zucchini bread
• Frozen shredded zucchini
• Frozen zucchini tastes as good as the day you picked it!
• Dip in pasta sauce
• Cut into long strips and fry in oil to make zucchini fries
• Add to your other vegetables when making stir-fries – adding meat increases the flavor
• Can be made into a relish for use on burgers and hot dogs

More Zucchini Recipes

• Zucchini Pizza Boats
• Easy Baked Cheesy Zucchini Bites
• Zucchini Muffins Recipe
• 5 Reasons Why People Love Zucchini Bread

Should you refrigerate zucchini from the garden?

I like harvesting my zucchini when the plant is small and then putting them in the fridge crisper drawer. I’ve found the small and younger squash has a better texture and flavor. The fridge helps maintain that freshness longer.

Final Word

The best zucchini is what comes out of your garden. No matter how you choose to store your zucchini, it’s important to remember that the fresher the produce is when it’s first picked and preserved, the longer it will stay fresh in storage. These are just a few of the ways to store zucchini from your garden so that you can enjoy it during the cold winter months! With these methods, you’ll always have some delicious zucchini dishes to look forward to. How do you love to prepare zucchini? I’d love to hear from you! May God bless this world.

The post How to Store Zucchini From the Garden appeared first on Food Storage Moms.

from Food Storage Moms

What to Wear When The SHTF

Estimated reading time: 18 minutes

There is historical precedent for how disasters affect the clothing choices of any population. World War I and World War II changed the way people thought how they dressed, not only for practical reasons but for emotional reasons as well. For the first time, women started to wear pants on a regular basis as they filled the roles of men in the work force.

The Great Depression of the 1930’s forced a radical change in clothing as fashion was replaced by durability and functionality. People also had to think about wearing and living with a smaller wardrobe as the cost of clothing had to be balanced with essential needs like food. 

It’s hard to imagine the desperation of a depression or another world war, but economic collapse is an ever-present possibility, and a failure of the power grid for any number of reasons could lead to a radical and sudden shift in day-to-day life.

And then there’s the increasing threat of natural disasters, an on-going war in Eastern Europe, and the potential for new pandemics devastating the supply chain. That’s when everything changes, but the one thing we won’t be able to change all that often is clothing, so it’s time to take some lessons from the past as we ponder an uncertain future.

Want to save this post for later? Click Here to Pin It On Pinterest!

Table of Contents

• Clothing 101
• Fabric Science
• Gray Man Clothing
• How Much is Enough?
• Clothing Repair
• The Survival Closet
• A Word On Laundry

Clothing 101

It seems silly to analyze what we wear, but when it comes to assessing the best choices for clothing in difficult and demanding times, it’s worth a moment of reflection. Stop and take a look at the clothing you and your family have in your closets.

We’ll cover ideal characteristics, but first: stop throwing clothes away. If no one is wearing something anymore, store it. There may come a time where a little repair or a simple barter transaction can add new value to those old clothes.

There’s another factor to consider as well. We usually think of clothing as something to protect us from the elements whether it’s heat, cold, rain, or snow. In an uncertain future where the grid may be down, some of us may find we’re wearing the same clothes indoors and outdoors.

If you’ve ever camped in winter, you may have slept in a coat and hat. In summer, you may have spent the day in gym shorts and a T-shirt. Without air-conditioning, that could become your indoor wardrobe as well. 

The point is, clothing won’t be as much a fashion statement as a survival statement, and the most critical characteristics will be defined by 3 qualities:

1. Practicality
2. Utility
3. Durability

Practicality 

Practicality in clothing is driven by cost and fabrics. Cotton is historically cheapest, wool costs more, and some synthetic fabrics can be the most expensive. Many of us have heard the expression, “Cotton kills” as a clothing choice for winter, but there’s nothing wrong with wearing cotton in winter if you can avoid getting it wet from precipitation or perspiration.

It’s impractical to have an entire wardrobe of wool or synthetic clothes, and your budget will have much to do with your clothing choices. Regardless of what you choose, a practical approach would dictate a variety of clothes made from cotton, wool, and synthetics with the next characteristic in mind.

Utility

If it’s cold, you dress warm. If it’s hot you dress light. Utility aligns clothing with the elements and time of year. But there’s more to it. Multiple pockets in pants, shirts, and jackets may be a good idea when times are challenging and your general shopping options are limited.

If the grid is down, good luck finding a lot of stores for everyday items. If you need something, you’ll have to take it with you, and cargo pants with many large pockets become a better idea. The same goes for pants and shirts.

Shoes and boots are another consideration in times and places where a single pair of shoes will have to handle varying conditions. Pacs or shoes/boots with a rubberized bottom and sides and breathable leather at the ankles make sense across a range of weather and terrain, from puddles in city streets to mud in forests and fields. 

Utility means an item of clothing can provide a range of functions, satisfy a variety of needs, and work across sudden and varying weather conditions. 

Durability 

When Levi Strauss put rivets in his denim jeans at the height of the California Gold Rush in 1849, the miner’s bought them like they were the only clothing on Earth. What Strauss figured out is that tough, reliable durability could be brought to clothing with simple innovation and design. 

Across fabrics from cotton to wool and synthetics, various materials demonstrate durability to varying degrees. Denim may be one of the most durable cotton examples, and Carhartt has taken durability in denim to another level across a variety of pants, overalls, jackets and coats. 

Leather and hides from other animals are another highly durable fabric and the Shearling jackets worn by World War II bomber pilots are still popular to this day. They’re made from the tanned hides of sheep with the fleece still attached to make them not only durable but warm and resistant to moisture. 

What defines durability is the thickness of the fabric, its natural strength, the quality and integrity of any stitching, and in some unique cases, the addition of things like rivets or linings to reinforce areas under high stress and wear. 

Fabric Science

Cotton

Cotton is a plant based fabric that is best worn in Spring, Summer, and Fall. Whether short sleeve shirts or shorts, cotton is the fabric choice for anyone living close to the equator or during the summer in northern latitudes.

The downside of cotton is that it is highly absorbent and any precipitation or perspiration will wick and hold into cotton making it an unforgiving fabric in cold weather. On the upside, it is relatively inexpensive and fairly durable.

Wool

Wool is a traditional choice for winter and many people wear it in summer, although some people can’t stand the itching and scratching of wool on hot days. As an animal fabric, it is highly effective at both holding in body heat and protecting from the outside cold.

Its durability depends a lot on the design and stitching, but if put together well or still attached to the hide, it is one of the most durable fabrics. Prices are usually higher than cotton items. 

Silk

Silk is surprisingly strong and a first choice for hot weather. It actually feels cool on the skin even on the hottest days, but it’s delicate and must be washed and dried carefully. It’s also expensive. 

Synthetic Fabrics

These emerged in the 20^th century and the most well-known may be Gortex. The advantage of synthetic fabrics is that many of them are water-resistant but still breathable so rain is kept out and perspiration is not kept in. 

Prices for synthetics vary widely depending on the type of clothing and the quality of manufacture. 

Hybrid Fabrics

These are created through fabric combinations or unique weaving practices. Flannel is a good example and can be made from cotton, wool or synthetics. The fabric that flannel is made from ultimately defines its characteristics. 

The fabrics you choose are driven by your budget, but you should at least consider cotton or wool. They’re less expensive than silk, synthetics, and hybrids. 

And Then There’s The “Gray Man”

You may have heard of the expression, “Be the gray man.” It simply means don’t stand out, and keep a low profile. The idea is to not draw attention to yourself in times of civil unrest or societal collapse.

Curiously, an instinct of some people in desperate times is to wear clothing that falls in the category of tactical gear. This includes camos, tactical vests, military boots, and other gear that makes you look military and ready for action. Contrary to popular belief, it does little to deter people and may actually make you a target. 

As we go through various items of clothing in our survival closet, we’ll encourage neutral colors that satisfy all of the criteria of durability, utility, and practicality without making a military “fashion” statement. 

How Much Clothing is Enough?

That depends on your situation. 

If you’re traveling, travel light. Socks and underwear are light and you should have multiple pairs. The same goes for pants. The concept is that as you go up on the body from your feet you should have more extra clothing because the lower parts of your body are more exposed to the elements; brush, splattered mud, and debris and need to be changed or washed more often. 

If you’re home or in a permanent location, stock up. The plan is to assemble clothing that lasts and satisfies a variety of functions and seasons. The reality is that new clothes may be hard to find or very expensive, so you should think about the long-term with a wardrobe that will last longer.

And stop throwing away those old clothes. Store them the same way you would stockpile food or gear. If things are at their worst, simple purchases like clothing or at least clothing in your size may be difficult if not impossible. 

Clothing Repair

We’re quick to buy a new shirt when we lose a button or turn an old pair of jeans into rags when they’re ripped. However, when the price or availability of clothing gets out of reach, it would be wise to have the ability to repair them.

It also makes sense to have the basic skills so the repairs are not only reliable but don’t make you look like a scarecrow. Here are some items to think about storing:

• Buttons in a variety of colors and sizes (they’re cheap)
• Thread in a range of colors and strengths
• Sewing needles including larger needles for sewing denim and leather
• A sewing machine
• Bolts of fabric for patching, repairs, or sewing new clothes from scratch
• Collection of clothing patterns if you think you might want to sew your own
• Shoe laces in a variety of sizes and materials (also fairly inexpensive)
• Lengths of elastic in various sizes and strengths
• Various zippers
• Rivets and snaps and the tools to attach them
• Good scissors designed for fabrics
• Thimbles, pin cushions and other items that help you sew and repair
• Shoe repair tools plus soles, leather, lace eyelets
• A book or two about sewing and repairing clothing, shoes and boots

If you can’t buy it for any reason, you have to repair it. That’s a lot easier if you have the basic skills and stuff on hand to make that happen. 

About The Kids…

Kids grow fast and grow out of clothing. If you have more than one child, hand-me-downs become an obvious choice.

There’s some advice out there that you should buy clothing a little larger for any child to allow them to grow into them. That works better for shirts than pants.

Shoes are a different story. Shoes should fit from day one. Hand-me-down shoes remain an option.

Remember the Layers

Layers of clothing make sense any time of year. Layering allows you to take off a layer of clothes as the weather warms or as your physical activity raises your body temperature. It also allows you to add layers when the weather cools and in the event of rain, add a rain coat and pants as an outer shell. 

Start with Your Closet

You may already have much of what you may need. Start by doing an assessment of what you already wear and try to determine: 

• Which items can be repaired if needed
• Which would someday need to be replaced (buy them now)
• Which items have proven their value and should be bought in multiples for the future
• Which items you may be missing

It’s not about the latest fashions; it’s about the smartest choices. Take the time to think a bit about how prepared you are for a clothing shortage. 

The Survival Closet

Let’s get dressed, starting from the bottom up. We’re going to begin with boots and shoes and identify their Ideal characteristics and do the same for all clothing items. 

Shoes and Boots

Proper fit is the most important aspect for shoes and especially for boots. This is critical if you are walking distances on a regular basis and many of us will be quite active in desperate times. 

Boots should fit snugly around the heel, ankle, and instep but have room for you to wiggle your toes. It’s also important that your toes do not jam against the toe box when you press your foot forward. The best test of toe space is to stand on a downward incline for a while.

In the category of boots, work boots and hiking boots are designed to be rugged, durable, and are a practical consideration. The shoes or boots you choose are up to you but keep the following qualities in mind.

Ideal Characteristics:

• Proper stability and support for the foot
• Protection from foot injuries
• Adequate shock-absorption and comfort
• Prolonged wear and retention of shoe/boot shape
• A metal toe cap for boots if you think you’ll be doing any construction, demolition or building
• Durable construction from leather or well stitched fabric

Insulated boots are a good idea for winter but if you have to stick with one pair of boots go with an un-insulated boot and wear two pairs of socks in winter.

Socks

If you could only pick one pair of socks, choose wool. They won’t be as hot in summer as you think and they are the first choice for winter. Fortunately, socks are cheap compared to other clothing so stock up on stockings.

Cotton socks are fine for most of the year but make sure you have wool socks in the drawer as well. In case you’re wondering, here are the best characteristics to look for in socks:

Cotton Socks

Advantages:

• Soft
• Easy to clean
• Affordable

Disadvantages:

• Retain moisture when feet perspire. This can leave the feet feeling clammy, which can lead to foot blisters and infections.
• Cotton socks also tend to lose their shape and stretch when wet.

Wool Socks

Advantages:

• Provide warmth during cold-weather exercise
• Retain heat when wet
• Can be blended with manufactured fibers to keep feet dry and provide insulation

Disadvantages:

• Retains moisture
• Long drying time

Pants

Pants take a beating. If you’ve ever done any construction or projects around the house, it’s your pants that usually tell the tale. Denim pants are a good bet, but go for a quality brand if you can.

Cargo pants are another option. They have numerous pockets that come in handy if you spend a lot of time on foot or are engaged in a variety of projects and destinations. They can look a bit tactical, so stay away from the camos and khakis. 

Most pants are cotton, but you can find wool pants and you’ll need them if you live in a Northern latitude where cold weather is always a challenge. People who live close to the equator live in light, cotton pants that are usually white or at least a light color. That’s a good choice when the air-conditioner’s out. 

Storm pants or bush pants are another consideration. They’re waterproof and can sometimes be worn over a regular pair of pants. They’ll keep you dry walking through wet brush and scrub. Snow pants are another possibility if winters are cold and snowy. Most are insulated and can also be worn over regular pants or jeans. 

Here’s what to look for:

Ideal Characteristics:

• Work any zippers before buying. It’s the primary failure point on pants.
• Check the stitching. It should be even and consistent with no loose threads.
• Consider the fabric weave. Is it a consistent pattern?
• Assess the strength by stretching. 
• All you have to do now is make sure they fit

Underpants

There’s not a lot of rocket science here. They come in either briefs or boxers for men and briefs or panties for women. Durability and comfort seem to be the most important characteristics. They’re also relatively inexpensive and very forgiving when repaired or sewn (few people will ever see them). Here’s some common sense recommendations.

Ideal Characteristics:

• Comfortable fit
• Non-abrasive 
• Ideally cotton

Shirts

Think long sleeve, short sleeve, cotton, and wool, and maybe treat yourself to a silk shirt or two if you live in a southern latitude where heat is a constant companion or can’t stand the thought of life without air-conditioning. 

Pockets make a lot of sense and some shirts fall in the category of cargo shirts with pockets everywhere for everything. Your only challenge will be looking like Colombo as you search your pockets for the car keys… assuming there’s still affordable gas. 

Some shirts are vented and designed to keep you cool in hot weather. Other shirts are insulated and usually flannel and work well in winter. Here’s what to think about.

Ideal Characteristics:

• Cotton in summer, wool in winter
• At least one pocket
• Light colors in summer, dark colors in winter
• Durable fabrics like flannel weaves

Undershirts

There are all sorts of fancy permutations on undershirts these days. Typically they’re cotton or an elastic polyester. It may be wise to go for different colors in case it gets hot and you have to spend the rest of the day in your undershirt.

At least you won’t look like you’re walking around in your underwear although lighter colors are best. Here’s the lowdown on undershirts.

Ideal Characteristics:

• Loose fit
• Cotton fabric
• Range of colors

Bras

A sports bra is worth considering as an everyday undergarment. They’re flexible and comfortable for anyone living an active lifestyle. Considering some of the challenges that may come following a societal collapse or catastrophic disaster it may be safe to assume that we’ll all be very active. Here’s the word on bras.

Ideal Characteristics:

• Consider sports bras
• Check the stitching on straps (main failure point)
• Overall comfort and support for active lifestyle

Gloves 

They’re not just for winter. Difficult times call for self-reliance and you may be very active doing everything from large-scale gardening to construction to wild foraging. Gardening gloves and nitrile gloves are inexpensive and it’s worth having a dozen pairs of each.

Winter gloves are another story not only for their higher cost but all it takes is a burning ember from a fire to ruin a pair of gloves. Think about having at least two pair on hand if you live in a particularly cold area and remember that most anything can be repaired. Here’s the lowdown on gloves:

Ideal Characteristics:

• Proper fit is critical 
• Breathable fabric in summer
• Insulated for winter and water proof
• Wrist closures for winter
• Check finger flexibility for various and on-going tasks and chores
• Check overall thickness, finish, barrier protection, tensile strength, elasticity and puncture resistance

Hats 

Hats protect us from the cold but also shade us from the sun. A wool stocking cap is a good bet but a fur lined bomber hat is worth having. 

At a minimum, a few cotton stocking caps will help keep you warm especially if your jacket or coat has a hood. 

Wide brim hats that protect your face, ears and neck from the sun are a must have if you spend any amount of time outdoors gardening, hunting, fishing or just getting from one place to another.

Wear a baseball cap if you must but a surprising amount of melanomas show up on the ears and neck. A societal collapse is a bad time to be looking for an oncologist let alone a dermatologist. Choose your hats wisely.

Here’s some more hat wisdom:

Ideal Characteristics:

• Proper fit
• Full brim sun hats for summer
• Flexible adjustments over ears and neck for winter
• Wool or lined with animal fur (bomber hat style)for winter
• Moisture wicking features
• Packable 
• Water repellent or water resistant

Jackets and Coats

Jackets and coats get us through the worst of weather. Think of them as investments because you may be using them for a long time. Your location and the local weather are important factors to consider but you may be traveling to areas with different weather patterns, so think ahead. 

Ideal Characteristics:

• Think about a loose fit for layering under the jacket or coat
• Breathable
• Detachable hood for multi-season use across fall to winter to spring
• Waterproof and windproof
• Consider Down for winter jackets
• A Down vest is a good idea for layering in winter
• Sweatshirts with hoods (hoodies) are a great idea for layering in winter and chilly summer nights
• A winter parka is a wise investment especially if you live in a northern latitude

Bandanas

There are hundreds of uses for a bandana. They’re inexpensive and can be useful to everyone in the family. Stock up. 

A Last Word on Laundry

It makes sense to buy clothes that are easily washed without a lot of fuss. It may be the only downside of wool (it easily shrinks). You also may be doing your laundry by hand. Make sure you have sufficient detergent and bleach stored or you’ll have to make your own soap if times get really tough. 

Like this post? Don't Forget to Pin It On Pinterest!

You May Also Like:

• DIY Off Grid Washing Machine
• How to Make Soap from Fat and Ashes
• Chickens Acting Strange? Here’s What It Means
• Longest-Lasting Canned Foods for Your Stockpile
• 40 Surprising Uses for Old Socks

The post What to Wear When The SHTF appeared first on Homestead Survival Site.

from Homestead Survival Site https://ift.tt/U48Xy1R

What Firefighters Wish People Understood About Wildfire Evacuation Timing

Ask a crew coming off a twelve-hour shift on a wind driven fire what they wish the public understood better, and the answer almost never has anything to do with hose lays, retardant drops, or aircraft. The answer has to do with clocks. Wildfire evacuation timing sits underneath nearly every close call these crews describe, ... Read more...

from Prepper's Will

Survival Fire Starters – The Complete Guide to Never Being Without Fire

A fire starter is one of the smallest items in a survival kit, yet it can be the single piece of gear that keeps you alive. Fire dries wet clothing, boils contaminated water, cooks food, signals rescuers, and holds off hypothermia when temperatures drop. Losing body heat is more dangerous than most people realize.

Even mild exposure can push core temperature below 95°F, a threshold the National Weather Service warns can cause lasting organ damage if it is not corrected quickly. That single fact is why every prepper, hiker, and homesteader treats fire starting as a non-negotiable skill, not just a hobby.

This guide covers every practical way to start a fire in a survival situation. You will find the gear-based tools worth carrying, the DIY fire starters you can make at home for pennies, and the safety rules that keep a life-saving fire from becoming a life-threatening one.

Why Every Survival Kit Needs a Fire Starter

A fire starter is not the same thing as fire-building skill. You can know every technique in the book, but without a reliable ignition source, wet hands and shaking fingers will cost you precious time in an emergency. That is why a dedicated fire starter, kept dry and separate from your everyday lighter, belongs in every kit you own.

FEMA’s official emergency supply checklist lists matches in a waterproof container as a core item for any household disaster kit, right alongside water, food, and a first aid kit. If federal emergency planners consider fire starting essential for a house that is not going anywhere, it is even more critical for anyone who might end up stranded outdoors.

Redundancy matters too. A single lighter can run out of fuel, a single box of matches can get wet, and a single ferro rod can be lost. The strongest kits combine at least two fire-starting methods with two or three types of tinder, so one point of failure never leaves you without options.

Types of Survival Fire Starters: Gear and Tools

Commercial fire-starting tools trade a bit of bulk and cost for consistency. Each of the following tools has strengths and weaknesses worth understanding before you build a kit around it.

Ferro Rods (Fire Steel)

A ferro rod is a rod of ferrocerium, a manufactured alloy that throws off a shower of sparks when scraped with a hard edge. Those sparks can reach roughly 3,000 to 5,500 degrees Fahrenheit, hot enough to ignite dry tinder almost instantly, and the reaction works regardless of altitude, humidity, or wind.

Ferro rods have no moving parts, no fuel to run out, and can typically produce thousands of strikes from a single rod. The tradeoff is a learning curve. You need fine, dry tinder positioned correctly, and a few practice sessions at home before you rely on one in the field.

Waterproof and Stormproof Matches

Waterproof matches are dipped in a protective coating that lets them ignite even after being submerged, and stormproof versions add a windproof flame that keeps burning in gusts that would snuff out an ordinary match. They are inexpensive, intuitive to use, and require no practice, which makes them a smart addition for less experienced members of a family kit.

Store matches in a waterproof case with a reliable striker surface, since a soaked strike-anywhere match head is useless even if the wooden body survives. Rotate matches every few years, since old chemical coatings can degrade.

Butane and Plasma Arc Lighters

A standard butane lighter is fast and familiar, but it struggles in cold temperatures, at altitude, and once the fuel runs dry. Rechargeable plasma arc lighters solve the fuel problem by using an electric arc instead of gas, and they work in wind and light rain, though they still depend on a battery charge.

Any lighter in a household with young children should be treated as a hazard, not just a tool. The Consumer Product Safety Commission requires most cigarette lighters and multi-purpose lighters sold in the United States to meet child-resistance standards, but no lighter is truly childproof, so storage out of reach still matters.

Magnesium Fire Starter Blocks

A magnesium block lets you shave off fine curls of pure magnesium with a knife, then ignite that pile with the built-in ferro rod strip most blocks include. Magnesium burns at over 3,000 degrees Fahrenheit and will light even when everything around it is damp, since the shavings burn independently of the surrounding wood.

The main downside is time. Shaving enough magnesium to build a usable pile takes more effort than striking a match, so this tool works better as a backup than a primary method when speed matters.

Flint and Steel

Traditional flint and steel uses a piece of hardened carbon steel struck against sharp-edged flint or chert to shed small, glowing metal sparks. These sparks run cooler than a ferro rod, typically around 800 degrees Fahrenheit, so they demand a very receptive tinder such as char cloth to catch reliably.

This method has no consumable parts beyond the steel itself and has kept fires burning for centuries. It rewards practice and is a satisfying backup skill, but it is slower to master than a modern ferro rod.

Fire Pistons

A fire piston ignites tinder using rapid air compression instead of a spark. A small piece of tinder sits in a cylinder, and a fast, forceful push of the piston compresses the trapped air so quickly that the heat generated ignites the tinder by the same principle a diesel engine uses to fire without spark plugs.

Fire pistons require a snug, well-lubricated seal to work, and a bit of technique to generate a consistent ember. They are compact and reusable indefinitely, making them a favorite among bushcraft enthusiasts who want a non-consumable backup tool.

Solar and Fresnel Lens Fire Starters

A magnifying lens, Fresnel card, or even a clear water bottle can focus sunlight into a hot enough point to ignite fine, dark tinder. This method costs nothing if you already carry a lens for map reading or first aid, but it only works in direct, strong sunlight, making it unreliable at night, in overcast weather, or in deep forest shade.

Because of these limits, a solar fire starter should never be your only method. Treat it as a free, weightless backup that occasionally saves your other supplies for another day.

DIY Fire Starters You Can Make at Home

Homemade fire starters cost almost nothing and use materials most households already have on hand. They pair well with any of the ignition tools above, since a good DIY starter gives a spark or flame enough time to catch larger kindling.

Vaseline-Soaked Cotton Balls

Work petroleum jelly into a cotton ball until it is thoroughly saturated but not dripping. The petroleum jelly slows the burn rate dramatically compared to a dry cotton ball, turning a dozen-second flare into several minutes of steady flame. Pull the fibers apart before lighting to expose more surface area to a spark or match.

Store a handful in a small waterproof container such as an old pill bottle or a resealable bag, and they will last for years without degrading.

Wax-Dipped Cotton Rounds and Newspaper

Melt candle wax or paraffin in a double boiler, then dip cotton pads, cotton balls, or tightly rolled strips of newspaper until they are fully coated. Once cooled, these discs are essentially waterproof and will burn for several minutes each. Tear or fray one edge before lighting so the wick-like fibers catch a flame or spark quickly.

Dryer Lint Fire Starters

Dryer lint is highly flammable on its own, and packing it into the compartments of a cardboard egg carton, then pouring melted wax over the top, turns household trash into a dozen individual fire starters. Cut the carton into single cups when you need one, and the cardboard itself serves as extra kindling.

Char Cloth

Char cloth is cotton fabric that has been slowly cooked in a sealed metal tin with no oxygen, converting it into a black, feather-light material that catches even a weak spark instantly. It is the traditional partner for flint and steel, since it turns those cooler sparks into a glowing ember that can then be transferred into a tinder bundle and blown into flame.

Making char cloth requires a small tin with a pinhole, a campfire or stovetop, and roughly ten to fifteen minutes of low, controlled heat. Store finished char cloth in an airtight container to keep it dry until needed.

Fatwood: Nature’s Fire Starter

Fatwood is resin-saturated pine heartwood, most often found in the stumps and lower trunks of dead pine trees. The resin is rich in terpene, a flammable compound that lets fatwood shavings catch fire from a single spark even when the wood around it is wet, and burn hot enough to dry out damp kindling on contact.

Shave thin curls from a piece of fatwood with a knife to expose fresh resin, and keep a few chunks in your pack. Unlike most tinder, fatwood does not degrade in storage and can sit in a kit for years without losing potency.

Household Item Fire Starters

A surprising number of everyday items double as tinder in a pinch. Greasy corn chips burn steadily for several minutes thanks to their oil content, cotton balls smeared with lip balm work much like the Vaseline version above, and strips of newspaper soaked in used cooking oil and dried make a smoky but effective fire starter.

None of these substitutes match a purpose-built fire starter for reliability, but knowing them means you are never truly without options, even if your kit is lost or exhausted.

How to Choose the Best Fire Starter for Your Kit

The right fire starter depends on where you are headed and how much skill you have practiced. A family car kit benefits from foolproof tools like stormproof matches and a butane lighter, since anyone can use them under stress without training.

A backcountry pack benefits from a ferro rod paired with a small stash of char cloth or fatwood, since that combination has no fuel to run out and performs in wet, cold, or high-altitude conditions where lighters often fail.

• Car and home kits: stormproof matches, a butane lighter, and a magnesium block as backup
• Backpacking and bushcraft kits: a ferro rod, char cloth, and a small tin of Vaseline cotton balls
• Bug-out bags: two ignition methods minimum, stored in separate waterproof containers
• Everyday carry: a mini ferro rod or lighter on a keychain, plus a pinch of dryer lint in a film canister

Building a Redundant Fire-Starting System

Preppers often repeat the rule of twos: two is one, and one is none. A single fire starter, no matter how good, is a single point of failure. The strongest approach layers a primary tool, a backup tool, and at least two kinds of tinder into different pockets or pouches so a soaked pack or a lost pocket does not leave you empty-handed.

Once you have ignition, technique matters just as much as gear. The National Park Service’s guide to building a campfire recommends laying kindling and firestarter material in the gaps of a loosely stacked wood tower rather than a dense pile, since fire needs airflow to grow from a spark into a sustained flame.

Practice every method in your kit at home, in daylight, before you ever need it under pressure. A skill you have only read about is far less reliable than one your hands already know.

Fire Safety and Legal Considerations

Fire is a tool, but an uncontrolled one becomes a hazard fast. The U.S. Forest Service notes that nine out of ten wildfires are human-caused, and recommends checking local fire restrictions before relying on an open flame in any wildland area, since drought conditions can make even a small campfire dangerous.

Before you count on being able to build a fire at all, check current conditions. The National Park Service’s wildland fire safety guidance advises travelers to consider alternatives such as a propane camp stove during periods of high fire danger, and to always keep a portable extinguisher or ample water nearby.

Never bring an open flame or a fuel-burning stove into a tent, vehicle, or other enclosed space to generate warmth. The CDC warns that burning fuel indoors, including portable camp stoves and charcoal, produces carbon monoxide, an odorless gas that has killed campers who brought a stove inside for warmth during bad weather.

Always clear a fire site down to bare soil, keep flammable gear at least several feet away, and never leave a fire burning unattended, even for a few minutes. Extinguish fully, and confirm the ash is cold to the touch before walking away.

Common Fire-Starting Mistakes to Avoid

• Carrying only one ignition method with no backup
• Storing tinder loose in a pack where it absorbs moisture from sweat or rain
• Skipping practice and trying a new tool for the first time during an actual emergency
• Using too little tinder, so the spark or flame dies before it reaches the kindling
• Building a dense, airless pile of wood that smothers the flame before it can grow
• Forgetting to check local fire restrictions before relying on an open flame outdoors

Your Gear Can Fail. Your Skills Shouldn’t

A ferro rod, waterproof matches, and carefully prepared tinder can make a huge difference in an emergency. But there’s something even more valuable than what you have packed in your survival kit: knowing what to do when the things you packed are gone, broken, wet, or simply not enough.

That kind of practical self-reliance used to be part of everyday life.

Our grandparents and great-grandparents knew how to make do with what they had, preserve food without modern conveniences, repair instead of replace, improvise essential tools, and keep their households functioning when outside help wasn’t available.

Many of those skills have quietly disappeared.

The Lost Skills of Independence was created to bring that knowledge back.

Inside, you’ll discover practical, old-fashioned skills designed to help you become less dependent on fragile modern systems and more capable of taking care of yourself and your family.

If this guide taught you that knowing how to start a fire matters just as much as carrying a lighter, take the next step and discover the other forgotten skills worth learning before you actually need them.

Discover The Lost Skills of Independence and start rebuilding the practical knowledge our ancestors took for granted!

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most reliable survival fire starter?

A ferro rod paired with dry, prepared tinder such as char cloth or fatwood is widely considered the most reliable combination, since it works in wet and windy conditions and never runs out of fuel.

How long do DIY fire starters last in storage?

Vaseline cotton balls, wax-dipped rounds, and fatwood can all last for years in a sealed, dry container. Char cloth should be kept airtight, since exposure to humidity over time can reduce how easily it catches a spark.

Can wet wood still be lit with the right fire starter?

Yes, within reason. A hot enough fire starter, such as a magnesium shaving pile or a chunk of fatwood, burns long and hot enough to slowly dry out the surface of damp kindling placed close to the flame, though soaked or rotten wood will still resist lighting.

Is it legal to carry a ferro rod or magnesium block while traveling?

In most cases yes, though airline carry-on rules restrict some fire-starting tools, including lighters and strike-anywhere matches. Always check current transportation security guidelines before flying with any ignition device.

---

You may also like:

Don’t Forget To Join Our WhatsApp Community For More Prepping Tips And Tricks

How to Filter Water Using a Sandwich Bag (VIDEO)

How Does a Wildfire Start? The Science, the Causes, and What Every Prepper Needs to Know

Car Fire Extinguisher: What You Need and Why It Belongs in Every Vehicle

Starting a Fire with Potassium Permanganate

---

The post Survival Fire Starters – The Complete Guide to Never Being Without Fire appeared first on Ask a Prepper.

from Ask a Prepper https://ift.tt/t5ULyI8