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Tuesday, October 20, 2026

10 Scary Things That Will Happen When The Grid Goes Down

Estimated reading time: 14 minutes

10 Scary Things That Will Happen When The Grid Goes Down

You may have already read or seen a variety of articles about what would happen if the grid went down or how 90% of people would die. You may also think that many of those articles are far-fetched and designed to instill fear in readers rather than seriously discuss the issue.

If that’s the case for you, then you may think the same about this article based on the title alone. But the purpose of this article is not to scare you or to spread so-called ‘doom and gloom,’ but rather to educate you on what very well could happen if the grid really went down and stayed down.

If and when the grid goes down, it’s not going to be like a normal power outage. Not even close. A true grid-down situation would last much longer, perhaps weeks or months, and during that time, a lot of things are going to happen that you never would have imagined.

Here are ten scary things that would happen if the grid went down. Hopefully, this will remind you of how fragile our society actually is and inspire you to start preparing if you haven't already.

1. No More Supply Trucks

When the supply trucks stop, no stores and restaurants are going to get resupplied. It’s not that it matters much anyway, because those stores are going to be looted and then abandoned afterward anyway.

This will guarantee that within a few short hours of the grid going down, life will already change dramatically because you will no longer be able to resupply yourself with the things that you need. Suddenly, you’ll be wondering why you hadn’t stocked up like you knew you should have been doing all along.

What most people don't realize is just how little food is actually sitting in their local grocery store at any given moment. Modern stores operate on what's called “just-in-time” inventory, meaning they only keep enough stock on hand to last a few days and count on a steady stream of deliveries to keep the shelves full. There's no big warehouse in the back loaded with months of supplies.

And it's not just groceries. Pharmacies, hospitals, and gas stations all depend on the same trucks. If you or someone in your family relies on prescription medication, you're going to want to talk to your doctor about keeping a little extra on hand, because once the pharmacy runs out, it's not getting any more.

If you haven't already, consider reading our beginner's guide to emergency food storage.

2. All The Stores Would Close

As was just mentioned, without the resupply trucks, stores and restaurants are most certainly going to be shut down. The only real question is, when will looting occur?

In some places, you can fully expect looting and rioting to occur within just a few hours of the grid going down, and perhaps even sooner than that. People are going to freak out, and everyone will recognize that it may be their last chance to get resupplied.

Once some people start looting, many more will join in just for the heck of it, and that’s not an exaggeration. Mobs and looters and raiding parties will form quickly and the general breakdown of society around you will be rapid. One moment things will be as they always were, and in the next everything will be a war zone.

If this happens, you'll need to avoid the riots and get home fast.

Riots and Police

3. Schools Would Be Shut Down

Schools will be shut down, even though you can also guarantee they will hold onto any students in session during the early stages of the grid down situation. It’s incredibly unlikely that school administrators and educators will simply release children into the chaos, making it the responsibility of the parents to show up and retrieve their kids in schools.

This is where things could get really stressful for parents. With cell service down (more on that in a bit), you won't be able to call the school or text your kids to find out what's going on. And if you work across town, the roads could already be jammed with thousands of other parents trying to do the exact same thing you are.

That's why it's so important to have a plan worked out ahead of time. Find out what your kids' school does in an emergency, including where students will be taken if they have to evacuate the building. Decide in advance who's picking up the kids if you can't get there, and make sure the school has that person listed as an approved contact. It's also a good idea to pick a meeting spot that everyone in the family knows about, just in case you get separated and can't reach each other.

If your kids are old enough to walk home on their own, make sure they know at least two different routes, and talk to them about what to do if they run into trouble along the way.

4. Commerce Would Cease

This is one that you’re going to want to think about. A grid down situation is seriously going to lead to a complete and utter breakdown of commerce as we know it. Banks will no longer be open, ATM’s won’t work, and debit and credit cards will no longer be of any use.

Will you still be able to use cash? Possibly. At the very least, you'll be able to use it in the early hours of the disaster before things get really bad. You can head on down to your local store and buy as much stuff as you can get if you know things are about to head south.

Beyond that though, it’s difficult seeing cash being of much use for anything. The reason is simple: it has no value other than what people attach to it, and it’s not something we can use to stay alive. In the event of hyperinflation, where the individual dollar will lose value rapidly, it will be of literally no use at all other than as an alternative to Kleenex or toilet paper.

The only type of real commerce that will be going on after then will be bartering, or where people exchange certain goods that we need to survive for other goods. For example, you may be able to trade a box of ammo for several rolls of toilet paper (both of those things are going to be in very high demand following a major disaster).

5. Gasoline Would Be Gone

This is a big one. Gasoline is going to become one of the most precious commodities once people are unable to get any more of it at gas stations.

Everything from cars to motorcycles to ATVs to generators all run on gasoline. We’ve all seen post-apocalyptic movies and TV shows where literally thousands of cars are lying uselessly abandoned by the side of the road. Well, that really won’t be all too far from reality.

In short, once the gasoline supply runs out, we’ll lose everything that runs on gasoline. The gas stations might actually still have fuel sitting in their underground tanks, but it won't matter. The pumps that bring that gas up to your car run on electricity. No power means no pumping, unless the station happens to have a backup generator (and very few do).

Also keep in mind that gasoline doesn't last forever. Untreated gas can start to break down within a few months, which can gum up your engine or generator. If you're storing fuel, add a fuel stabilizer and rotate your supply regularly so you're never stuck with a can of bad gas when you need it most.

The only gasoline we’ll have left is what you have stored and what you will be able to barter from other people (and you can guarantee that it’s going to command a very high price).

Long Line At Gas Station

6. Cell Service Would Stop

Now, cell service won't necessarily die the second the power goes out. Most cell towers have backup batteries, and some have generators, so you may still get a signal for a few hours or even a few days. But those backups won't last forever, and in the meantime, the network is going to be absolutely flooded with people trying to call their loved ones all at once.

If you do have service, try sending a text instead of making a call. Text messages take up far less bandwidth and will often go through when calls won't. And be sure to conserve your battery by turning down the screen brightness and closing any apps you don't need. A solar charger or a few fully charged power banks can make a big difference here.

Your phone may still work after a grid down, but it’s honestly not going to do you much good if you aren’t able to use it to access cell service or the internet. It’s one reason why investing in other communication devices will be so important, such as a HAM radio or a CB radio.

Once the Internet and cell service goes down, communication, as we know it in general, is going to get very different (and not at all easier).

7. Post Offices Would Close

You can say goodbye to ordering products from Amazon or sending or receiving mail from people when the grid goes down. This will greatly impact the way that we communicate with people long distance as well.

But it goes beyond Amazon packages. Think about all the things that normally show up in your mailbox: prescriptions filled by mail-order pharmacies, government checks, bills, and important documents. All of that will stop.

This is why it's a good idea to keep hard copies of your important documents (birth certificates, insurance policies, deeds, medical records, etc.) in a waterproof and fireproof container at home. If everything you need is stored in an email inbox or on a website somewhere, you won't be able to get to it when the grid goes down

8. Air Conditioning Won't Work

Is a lack of air conditioning life-threatening by any means? It depends. In the middle of summer, it very well could be if you don't take steps to keep yourself cool without AC. At the very least it will be very uncomfortable.

Heat is actually one of the deadliest weather hazards out there, and it tends to sneak up on people. During the Chicago heat wave of 1995, hundreds of people died, many of them elderly folks alone in apartments with no air conditioning and the windows shut. And that was with the grid still up and emergency services still running.

In a grid-down situation, the people most at risk will be the elderly, young children, anyone with a health condition, and pets. If you live in an apartment on an upper floor or in a home with poor insulation, things can get dangerously hot indoors, sometimes even hotter than it is outside. And don't forget that without power, your ceiling fans and box fans won't be running either.

This is why you need to know the warning signs of heat-related illness. Heat exhaustion usually comes first, with symptoms like heavy sweating, dizziness, headache, nausea, and muscle cramps. If you or someone else starts feeling this way, get to the coolest spot you can, drink water, and rest. If it's not dealt with, it can turn into heat stroke, which is a true medical emergency. Watch for confusion, slurred speech, hot skin, or a person who has stopped sweating. With no ambulance on the way, you'll need to cool them down fast with cool water and wet cloths on the neck, armpits, and groin.

A few simple things can go a long way toward keeping you cool. Keep your blinds and curtains closed during the day to block out the sun, then open windows at night when the air is cooler. Hang out in the lowest level of your home, since heat rises. Do any hard work early in the morning or in the evening, and drink water throughout the day even if you don't feel thirsty. A few battery-powered fans (and plenty of spare batteries) are also a cheap and smart addition to your preps.

One more thing to keep in mind: if you open your windows, you're also opening your home up to bugs. Mosquitoes can carry diseases, so it's worth stocking up on window screens, mosquito netting, and bug spray.

And it's not just air conditioning you won't have anymore…

9. Heaters Wouldn't Work

Just as the summer months are going to get really uncomfortable due to the lack of air conditioning, so will the freezing cold winter months due to the lack of heat.

In fact, the lack of heat is going to be a far worse problem than the lack of air conditioning and really could be life-threatening if it ever gets particularly cold outside.

This is why you’re going to want to stock up on as much firewood, propane bottles for heaters, and candles as you can. The firewood will be good if you have a firewood stove inside your home, but even if you lack the stove, you can still use it for getting a small and controllable fire outside.

Meanwhile, propane-run heaters will also be good to stock up on and cost less than five dollars each on average, and you can even use candles for warmth and light as well. Finally, be sure to invest in plenty of warm blankets and sleeping bags to go with it.

One very important word of warning: be extremely careful about what you burn indoors. Every year, people die from carbon monoxide poisoning after a power outage because they tried to heat their home with a grill, a camp stove, or a generator running in the garage. Carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless, so you won't even know it's building up until it's too late.

Only use heaters that are specifically rated for indoor use, keep a window cracked for ventilation, and never, ever run a generator inside your home or garage. You'll also want a battery-powered carbon monoxide detector (and plenty of spare batteries), since any detectors that are hardwired into your home's electrical system may stop working once their backup batteries die.

The same goes for candles. They're great for light and a little warmth, but they're also a leading cause of house fires, and the fire department may not be able to get to you in a grid-down situation. Never leave them unattended, and keep a fire extinguisher close by.

Here are some other ways to stay warm without a heater.

10. No More Running Water

You might still get some water out of your faucets for a little while after the power goes out. Many cities use water towers that rely on gravity to push water through the pipes. But once those towers drain, the electric pumps that refill them won't be running, and the water pressure will drop to nothing.

Without running water, your toilets won't flush either. In some areas, sewage treatment plants and pump stations will also fail, which can cause sewage to back up into homes. That's not just gross, it's a serious health hazard. It's a good idea to have a plan for handling human waste, such as a bucket toilet with heavy-duty trash bags and some kitty litter or sawdust.

As soon as the grid goes down, fill up your bathtubs, sinks, and any other containers you have while the water is still flowing. That water may not be safe to drink without treatment, but it'll be very useful for flushing toilets and cleaning. You won’t be able to run the dishwasher or the washing machine anymore, nor would you be able to take a shower, run the bath, water your plants, or even fill up a sink.

This is why when you stockpile water, you need to stockpile both drinking and cleaning/personal hygiene water. The recommended amount will be at least one gallon of water per person per day. One half of that gallon will be for drinking, and the other half will be for cleaning and personal hygiene.

Water filters and purification tablets will also be immensely important because when you do manage to procure more water for drinking purposes from other sources, it may not be safe to drink. Drinking unsafe water can oftentimes be more unsafe than not drinking any water at all, which will make a water filter device even more important and critical to own.

Here's a guide to collecting rainwater and some ways to purify water.

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The post 10 Scary Things That Will Happen When The Grid Goes Down appeared first on Urban Survival Site.



from Urban Survival Site

Phone Stolen While Traveling? What to Do in the First Hour (and Before You Go)

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The post Phone Stolen While Traveling? What to Do in the First Hour (and Before You Go) appeared first on The Survival Mom.



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Clear Does Not Mean Clean: Why I Filter The Water My Family Drinks

There was a time when I gave very little thought to the water coming out of my kitchen faucet. Turn the handle, fill the glass, drink. Most Americans still live that way, and under normal conditions public drinking water is treated and regulated. But preparedness has taught me to look past normal conditions. A flood […]

from Survivopedia

Monday, October 19, 2026

27 “Non-Perishable Foods” That Will Actually Spoil in Under 2 Years

There was a time when a farmhouse cellar held rows of jars, each marked in pencil with the month it was put up. The family ate the oldest jars first, every single time, and nothing on those shelves sat long enough to go bad. Somewhere along the way, folks traded that habit for a printed date on a cardboard box, and we’ve gotten soft about it.

The word “non-perishable” on a grocery label sounds like a promise, so plenty of pantries are now loaded with food nobody has checked in years.

A good share of that food is already on its way out, because the oils inside grains and nuts turn rancid over time. Acidic foods slowly wear through their can linings, and summer heat in a garage can shave years off almost anything stored there.

27. Brown Rice

Brown rice sounds like the healthier choice for a stockpile, and plenty of people buy it in bulk for that reason. But the bran layer holds oil, so the USA Rice Federation puts brown rice at only about six months on the shelf. A five-gallon bucket bought for the long haul may already smell like oily cardboard by the following summer.

White rice has that layer milled off, so it behaves completely differently once it’s sealed away from air. Find out how to dry can rice and beans for a 20+ years shelf life using nothing but your oven and canning jars:

A video showing a cartoon with cans of rice and beans

26. Store-Bought Jerky

Commercial jerky comes with an oxygen absorber in the bag, and the USDA puts unopened packages at about a year. The reason it fails so fast is the moisture left in it on purpose, since nobody wants to buy meat that snaps like a twig, and that softness is also what feeds mold and bacteria once air gets in. Open the bag and you’re down to a few days unless you can refrigerate it. Homemade jerky doesn’t save you either, because the USDA caps it at one to two months and most home batches never dry as thoroughly as factory ones.

In Amish homes, meat sits on the shelf for 10+ years and still tastes like something you’d serve to company. There are 3 forgotten meat-preservation methods behind that, and pemmican may beat them on paper at 25+ years, but nobody looks forward to eating pemmican. This hands-on course on food preservation walks you through every step on video. This course helped me save a lot of money in prepping after I started making my own long lasting foods. 

25. Breakfast Cereal

Getting cereal past the two-year mark comes down to what you store it in. The original box and liner bag let air and humidity straight through, so the flakes need to go into Mylar bags inside a food-grade bucket, or into glass jars with a tight gasket lid if you’re only putting up a box or two.

Pasta, oats, rice, flour and dried beans all hold up far longer the same way. The catch is that sealing them up wrong traps the moisture inside with them, which is how people open a bucket three years later and find a solid, musty brick.

But before you seal that bag, make sure you run through these 3 crucial steps, and your cereal will still be crisp long after the date on the box has passed. 

24. Milk Chocolate

Chocolate earns a spot in a lot of kits because it lifts morale and trades well when things get tight. Milk chocolate is the weak link, though, since it holds its best quality for only about a year. Past that the cocoa butter oxidizes into a waxy, faintly soapy taste, and the milk solids turn sour on top of it. It also absorbs odors straight through its wrapper, so a bar stored near fuel or mothballs comes out tasting like them.

Dark chocolate over 70% is the better bet for storage, because the higher cocoa content and lower milk solids slow all of it down. 

23. Granola and Protein Bars

Bars are easy to toss in a glovebox and forget about, but their shelf life usually runs six to twelve months. Protein bars harden into something close to a brick as moisture moves around inside them. Granola bars, on the other hand, pick up a bitter edge once the oils and nuts oxidize, and the chocolate coating turns waxy.

22. Potato Chips

Chip bags are filled with nitrogen to push out oxygen, but that only buys an unopened bag about two months of good flavor. After that, the frying oil oxidizes and the chips pick up a stale, painty taste that salt can’t hide. A bag in a hot car trunk goes off even faster, so chips belong in short-term kits only.

21. Instant Ramen

Ramen is a prepper favorite since it costs pennies and cooks with very little fuel. The catch is that most instant noodles are flash-fried in palm oil before packaging, so the best-by date usually sits less than a year out. Old ramen smells off the moment you tear the wrapper, and the seasoning packet won’t cover it up.

20. Boxed Macaroni and Cheese

Boxed mac and cheese looks like a solid long-term meal, and the dry pasta inside would last for years on its own. But the cheese powder carries dairy fat that oxidizes and clumps over time. After about a year, the sauce tastes stale and grainy, and you’ll end up stirring in extra fat you may not have to spare.

19. Baking Powder

An unopened can of baking powder keeps about eighteen months, but an opened one loses much of its lift within six months to a year. A damp kitchen speeds that up. Luckily, a teaspoon stirred into hot water settles the question, and if it doesn’t fizz hard right away, your biscuits won’t rise either.

18. Active Dry Yeast

Sealed yeast packets are good until the date printed on them, as long as they stay cool and dry. An opened jar keeps roughly four months in the fridge, which won’t help much once the power goes out. Proofing a pinch in warm sugar water for ten minutes tells you whether it’s still alive, though a dead packet means no bread until the stores restock.

A sourdough starter solves that for good, since it’s a living culture that makes its own yeast out of flour and water. It needs feeding to stay healthy, but you can also dry it into flakes that sit in a jar for years and wake back up with a little warm water. From there you can bake THIS crispy bread in a jar, or, why not, turn it into cake in a jar, for when SHTF and even now.

17. Bouillon Cubes

Bouillon gets stockpiled to flavor rice and beans through a long crisis, yet most cubes are held together with palm oil or other fats. They tend to keep their quality for one to two years before turning crumbly and bitter. Granulated bouillon in a sealed jar does a little better than individually wrapped cubes.

16. Boxed Instant Potatoes

Instant potato flakes look like a dream stockpile food, and the #10 cans do hold up for years, but the cardboard box from the grocery aisle is a different animal. Cardboard breathes, so moisture and oxygen work their way in and the flakes pick up a stale, papery taste within about a year. They also clump into hard lumps that won’t rehydrate evenly, leaving you with gluey potatoes.

15. Wheat Germ

Wheat germ is the most oil-rich part of the wheat kernel, and it spoils faster than almost anything else in a pantry. Vacuum-packed jars are usually dated about a year out. Once the seal breaks, though, an opened jar can go rancid in a few weeks without refrigeration.

14. Whole Wheat Flour

Whole wheat berries sealed in buckets can stay good for decades, but the clock speeds up dramatically once they’re milled into flour. Whole wheat flour lasts about three months in the pantry and six to eight months in the fridge. Keeping whole berries and a hand-crank grain mill is the best way to handle it.

cans on a shelf

13. Acidic Canned Foods

Tomatoes, pineapple, citrus and anything packed in vinegar all work on the can from the inside, and the USDA puts high-acid canned goods at only twelve to eighteen months of best quality. The acid wears through the lining first, then the metal underneath starts to leach into the food, which is where the tinny taste comes from.

Tomato paste and sauce follow the same rule, and a dented or rusty can deserves extra suspicion since a damaged seam gives the acid a head start. Any can with bulging ends goes in the trash no matter what the date says.

12. Vegetable Oil

Soybean, canola and corn oils are cheap, so they get bought in bulk for emergency frying and baking. Unfortunately, these oils are high in polyunsaturated fats that break down fairly quickly. An unopened bottle typically keeps its quality for six months to a year.

11. Trail Mix

Trail mix puts nuts and dried fruit together in one bag, and that pairing works against it. Moisture from the fruit moves into the nuts, so they start to taste stale and bitter. Most bags are best within six to nine months.

10. Peanut Butter

Peanut butter shows up in a lot of emergency kits because a single jar holds thousands of calories, but unopened jars only run six months to two years depending on the brand, and the natural kind without stabilizers sits at the short end. Once you open one, you’ve got two or three months in the pantry before the oil goes rancid.

The bigger worry is mold, since peanuts carry an Aspergillus strain that produces a liver toxin heat won’t destroy, so any jar with dark or fuzzy spots goes in the trash whole rather than scooped around. 

9. Walnuts and Pecans

Walnuts have a high share of polyunsaturated fat, so they spoil faster than almost any other nut. Shelled walnuts and pecans can go rancid within a few months to half a year on a pantry shelf. In the freezer they’ll last a year or two, and nuts still in the shell hold up better than shelled ones.

8. Flavored Instant Oatmeal

Plain rolled oats keep for a long time in an airtight container, but flavored instant packets are another matter. The added milk powder and fruit bits shorten their life to about a year. They’re convenient for a bug-out bag, as long as you rotate them regularly.

7. Egg Noodles

Egg noodles look just like dry pasta, but the egg yolk adds fat that regular semolina pasta doesn’t have. They usually keep their best quality for one to two years. Past that, they can smell slightly sour and taste stale even after a long boil.

6. Whole Wheat Pasta

Whole wheat pasta keeps the bran and germ, so it contains more oil than white pasta. Its shelf life runs closer to a year, compared with the much longer stretch white pasta can last. And old whole wheat pasta takes on a bitter, musty taste that sauce can’t fully cover.

5. Cornmeal

Degerminated cornmeal, the kind most grocery stores sell, can keep six months to a year because the oily germ has been taken out. Stone-ground cornmeal makes better cornbread, but it keeps the germ and lasts only about three months in the pantry. For that reason, stone-ground meal belongs in the freezer.

4. Canned Soup and Chili

You’ve probably had that red and white Campbell’s can on the shelf since before you can remember, and it feels like the one thing that’ll outlive everything around it. It won’t. The tomato in it is acidic enough to wear through the lining like any other high-acid can, which puts it at twelve to eighteen months of real quality.

Cream and cheese soups do worse, since the dairy fat separates and goes stale faster than the acid can even get going. The broth-only kinds outlast both by a wide margin, so a case of plain chicken or beef broth earns its shelf space better than the chunky ready-to-eat cans you usually grab.

If you already have The Lost Super Foods, flip to page 133 and you’ll find the best marinara sauce recipe you’ll ever taste, made in a way nobody would guess from looking at it. What matters here is that it holds for 20 years without a can or a fridge, and I’m still working through a batch I put up seven years ago on the nights I don’t feel like cooking. Soups, stews, pizza at home, it all starts from that one recipe. 

3. Sauerkraut

Store-bought sauerkraut sits in a salty, acidic brine that keeps bacteria out, and the USDA groups it with other high-acid canned foods at twelve to eighteen months. Then again, that same acid softens the cabbage and works on the can or lid over time. Older kraut turns mushy, and the lid can start rusting from the inside.

Back in the Great War nobody would touch anything with a German name on the label, so the grocers renamed it overnight and families kept making it in crocks anyway. That’s a good reason to try THIS liberty cabbage recipe yourself, since a jar made the old way holds 30 months without ever seeing heat. It stays raw, so the live cultures survive, and those are what settle a sour stomach when no doctor is coming.

2. Crackers

Saltines and butter crackers look bone-dry, but they’re made with shortening or vegetable oil. Unopened sleeves usually hold their quality for about six months, and after that the flavor turns sharp and cardboard-like. Once a sleeve is open, humidity softens them within days, which matters if you’re counting on them.

Instead of stocking up on packs of store bought crackers, you can make the 3-ingredient crackers at home that holds for 20+ years on the shelf. Civil War soldiers carried them in their haversacks, and they were called “the forever crackers” for good reason, since there’s no fat in them to go rancid. You can find the recipe here. 

1. MREs

Companies sell MREs as the ultimate long-term meal, but the military ties their shelf life straight to temperature. At 80°F an MRE only has to hold up three and a half years, at 100°F that drops to nine months, and at the 120°F an attic or parked truck hits in July, you’re down to about a month.

Military cases carry a time-temperature indicator, a small dot whose inner circle darkens as heat adds up, and once it matches the outer ring the meals are done. Civilian brands vary a lot, so moving yours to a cool closet or basement buys back years for free.

Building your own gets around the problem entirely, since you pick what goes in the pouch and skip the fats that cut the shelf life to begin with. The better option is to make MREs that last for 6+ years at home. The whole trick to this is owning a dehydrator, a few Mylar bags and one other thing you won’t find written down anywhere but here.

The Golden Rules of Long-Lasting Foods

Fat, moisture, heat and air are what ruined every item on that countdown, so the date printed on a box was never really about your pantry. But there are a handful of forgotten food preservation techniques that beat all four at once.

They’re still used by Amish families, who have kept meat, eggs, milk and bread on the shelf for hundreds of years, through entire winters, without a refrigerator anywhere in the house. 

Now you can learn their golden rules by enrolling in The Amish Food Canning & Storage Academy before the end of the month. These are well-kept secrets you’d normally only pick up by living inside the Amish community, but right now you have the chance to learn them from home.

Here’s just a glimpse of what you’ll be doing inside this online video course: 

Amish ways academy (2)

So next time you restock your pantry, keep these rules in mind and make the best out of the survival food you’ve been putting away for years. Rotate what you can, repack what’s worth saving, and let the rest go before it goes on its own. 


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The post 27 “Non-Perishable Foods” That Will Actually Spoil in Under 2 Years appeared first on Ask a Prepper.



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How to Make Clay at Home

Estimated reading time: 8 minutes

How to Make Clay at Home

Clay is one of those resources that's way more useful than most people realize. With it, you can make pots and bowls for cooking, build an earthen oven, patch walls, seal gaps, and even make simple tools. People have relied on clay for thousands of years, and it's still one of the most practical materials you can have on hand when living off the grid.

The best part is that making your own clay isn't as complicated as you might think. Clay is really just a certain kind of dirt, and there's a good chance there's plenty of it right in your backyard. You just need to know how to recognize it and how to clean it up so it's usable.

I came across a great video on the YouTube channel, Andy Ward's Ancient Pottery, that walks through three different methods for turning dirt into clay, along with when to use each one. You can watch is video and learn about the three methods below.

What Clay Actually Is

Technically speaking, clay is sediment made of super fine particles, even smaller than silt. We're talking less than 0.00016 of an inch. That means not all dirt is going to work equally well. Some dirt is loaded with clay, while other dirt has hardly any in it at all.

That's why some people try making clay from dirt and end up frustrated. If you start with a whole bucket of dirt that doesn't have much clay in it, you might end up with only a handful of usable clay after all that work. Picking the right dirt from the start makes a huge difference.

How to Spot Dirt That's High in Clay

Clay-rich dirt has a few telltale signs you can look for. When it's wet, dirt with a lot of clay in it feels sticky and moldable, kind of like the clay you'd buy at a store. When it's dry, look for tire tracks or footprints that hold their shape for a long time. That's the clay holding everything in place.

Another big clue is a cracked, crackled texture on the surface of the ground. Clay expands when it gets wet and shrinks when it dries out, so when you see that cracked pattern, it usually means there's a good amount of clay in that soil.

Testing Your Dirt Samples

It's a good idea to collect dirt from a few different spots and test each one. Andy grabbed three samples from different places around town.

To test them, crumble each sample into a powder with your hands, then add some water. Once it's wet, you can feel how clay-like it is. Pay attention to how well it sticks to itself, how moldable it is, and how gritty it feels. That tells you how much work it'll take to turn it into usable clay.

Here's what Andy found with his three samples:

  • Sample 1 was high in clay and felt nice and moldable, but since it came from an area where people parked their cars, it had bits of plant material and gravel mixed in. It just needed to be screened to get the bigger debris out.
  • Sample 2 was nearly pure clay with no rocks or plant material, so it barely needed any processing at all.
  • Sample 3 was really gritty and full of gravel, sand, and probably silt. It didn't stick together well, so it needed a lot more work to separate the clay out.

Each of these samples called for a different method, which brings us to the three ways to turn dirt into clay.

Method 1: Screening

Screening for Clay

Screening is the way to go when your dirt has plenty of clay in it but also has some larger junk mixed in, like rocks, gravel, or bits of plants.

Start by putting the dirt in a bucket and adding water. Mix it up until it's nice and thin, with no lumps. Then pour it through a screen. A strainer works great, but an old piece of window screen or a chunk of screen from the hardware store works just fine, too. If the screen gets gummed up, add a little extra water to help rinse it through.

Now you've got liquid clay, and you'll need to get a lot of that water out. Let the bucket sit for about an hour so the clay settles to the bottom, then pour off the clear water from the top. The clay will still be too wet to work with at this point, so pour it into an old pillowcase and set it out in the sun. Let it dry until it reaches the right consistency.

Method 2: Dry Processing

Dry Processing Clay

If you're lucky enough to find dirt that's pretty much pure clay, dry processing is the easiest, fastest, and most efficient method. You don't really have to remove anything from it.

All you have to do is pound it into a powder. Andy just used his concrete driveway and a rock, but you can do this pretty much anywhere. If you'd rather work on a countertop, put down a piece of plywood, a flagstone, or a paver so you're not smashing it directly on the counter. Then use a brick or a rock to gently pound the dirt into powder.

Most clay isn't very hard, so this goes pretty quickly, and it doesn't need to be as fine as flour. If your clay is too wet to grind, set it out somewhere covered (so it doesn't get rained on) and let it dry for a couple of weeks first.

Method 3: Levigation

Levigation Clay

Levigation is the method to use when your dirt is really gritty and full of sand and silt. It sounds fancy, but it just means using gravity to separate particles by size.

Put the dirt in a bucket, cover it with water, and mix it up well. Reach in with your hands and break up any lumps so everything's mixed in with the water. Then let it sit for just a minute or two. The heavier sand and silt will sink to the bottom, and you can pour the liquid clay off the top into a second bucket.

Repeat this process three, four, or five times, adding more water, mixing, letting it sit for a minute, and pouring off the liquid clay. Keep going until there's mostly just grit left in the first bucket.

At that point, your second bucket is basically pure liquid clay. Let it sit for at least an hour, or even overnight, so the clay settles to the bottom. Then pour off the layer of clear water on top.

The clay will still be way too watery to use, so here's a handy trick to dry it out. Set a few bricks on your patio to form a little trough, lay a piece of cotton cloth over them, and pour the clay in. Moisture will drain out through the bottom of the cloth and evaporate off the top, and by the end of the day, it should be ready to go.

Tempering Clay So It Won't Crack

Once you've made your clay, there's still one more step before you can use it to make pottery. All clay shrinks as it dries, and if it dries unevenly, it'll crack and break. To help it dry more evenly, you need to add something called temper.

Temper is any non-moldable material that you mix into the clay. In store-bought clay, it's usually grog, which is just clay that's been fired and ground up into a powder. You can buy grog or make your own, but sand is often the easiest option since you can find it just about anywhere. Volcanic ash and diatomaceous earth also work well because they're fine and don't react when the clay is fired.

A good ballpark is to add about 20% temper to your clay. One tip: It's a lot easier to mix the temper into dry clay than wet clay. With wet clay, it's harder to measure and you have to knead it in, but with dry clay, you can just stir it around until the sand is mixed throughout. That's why it makes sense to add temper to dry-processed clay before you add water.

Final Thoughts

Making your own clay really is as simple as finding the right dirt and picking the right method to clean it up. If your dirt is mostly clay with some debris, screen it. If it's nearly pure clay, dry process it. And if it's gritty and sandy, levigate it. Add some temper, and you've got clay that's ready for pottery and all kinds of other projects, without spending a dime at the store.

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