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Wednesday, October 28, 2026

Read THIS Before Eating Your Survival Food!

Somewhere in the back of your pantry sits a can or jar that’s been there longer than you’d care to admit. And from the outside, it probably looks just fine. Stored food changes slowly, though, and much of that change happens where you can’t see it or smell it. For decades, we’ve had the luxury of shrugging off a bad meal, because a doctor and a pharmacy were never far away.

After SHTF, that comfort disappears in a hurry. A bout of vomiting and diarrhea can leave a grown man too weak to stand within a day or two. And without enough clean water to replace what he loses, dehydration sets in fast. For an older body, especially one already dealing with heart or kidney trouble, things turn dangerous even sooner.

So stored food deserves a closer look before it goes on the plate, whether you’re rotating your stockpile or eating from it in a crisis. Some of the old rules of thumb hold up well, but a few of them could get you hurt.

Which Dented and Rusty Cans Are Still Safe to Eat

Store-bought canned food is about as safe as long-term food storage gets, but only while the can stays sealed tight. The canning process kills the germs inside, so the real risk comes later, from damage that lets air and bacteria back in. And where that damage sits on the can matters more than how big it looks, so these are the spots to check before you trust what’s inside:

  • Dents on the smooth side: A shallow dent here is usually harmless. The exception is a dent with a sharp point or crease you can feel under your thumb.
  • Dents on the top or bottom seam: That rim is where the lid is crimped onto the body, so even a small kink can break the seal without leaving a gap you’d ever spot. That’s why the USDA advises throwing out any can with a deep dent or a dent on the seam.
  • Light surface rust: A thin orange film that wipes off with a dry cloth won’t hurt the food.
  • Flaking or pitted rust: Rust that flakes away and leaves pits along the seam means the metal has thinned. Once it gets that thin, pinholes can open and let bacteria in, often without a leak you’d notice.
  • Cans that froze: Cans kept in an unheated garage or shed can freeze during a hard winter, and the expanding food can stretch the seams and push the ends outward. If the seams look sound once the can thaws, the food is generally fine to use, but a can with a burst or rusted seam belongs in the trash.

Dents and rust aren’t the whole picture either, so make sure you check these 10 ways to tell if a store-bought can is still good to eat, and you’ll want to run through them before you sort out a whole pantry shelf.

What’s inside matters too, since tomatoes, fruit, sauerkraut and juices are high in acid and that acid eats at the metal over time. So those cans go stale faster than corn or green beans and are the first to pick up a metallic taste or develop pinholes, which puts them at the front of the rotation. And if liquid spurts out or the food smells off when you open one, trash it without tasting. Botulism from commercial cans is rare, but it paralyzes the muscles you breathe with, and after SHTF the ventilator that would keep you alive is out of reach. 

The Perfect Home-Canned Jar That Can Make You Sick

Picture a jar of home-canned green beans pulled off a basement shelf by flashlight on a cold evening. The lid sits flat and the beans look as green as the day they went in, so opening it feels perfectly safe. Yet according to the C

DC, home-canned vegetables are the most common cause of botulism outbreaks in this country. The hardest part is that the toxin often leaves no sign at all. A jar can look and smell completely normal while holding enough toxin to paralyze whoever eats from it, which is why the CDC warns against tasting food from a suspect jar, even a small bite. 

So here’s what to run through before anything from that shelf hits a plate:

  • The seal, before the lid ever comes off: With the metal band removed, lift the jar slightly by the edges of the flat lid and keep your other hand underneath. A good seal holds the jar’s weight without any trouble. But if the lid lets go or shifts, air may have gotten inside, and that jar shouldn’t be eaten.
  • The liquid, held up to a light: Streams of tiny bubbles rising on their own mean something inside is fermenting. Cloudy liquid and a sticky residue on the rim point to spoilage too, and so does a lid that spurts when it comes off.
  • Food above the liquid line: Those top pieces often darken in the jar. Usually that color change comes from air in the headspace and doesn’t mean the jar has spoiled, though it’s still a good reason to recheck the seal before opening.
  • How the jar was processed: Green beans, corn, meat, and other low-acid foods put up in a boiling water bath never got hot enough to kill botulism spores. Those spores survive ordinary boiling, so low-acid food has to go through a pressure canner. Jars done the other way shouldn’t be trusted, whether they came from an old family recipe or a hand-me-down cookbook.

Have you ever wondered how the Amish keep their homemade cans good for years? They do it without a pressure gauge or a freezer, just methods passed down through generations. That’s why you must try their secret methods on your own shelf this season. 

Why Pemmican Made With Berries Spoils Faster

Pemmican made the traditional way, from dried lean meat pounded fine and mixed with rendered tallow, has very little water in it. That low moisture is a big part of why it keeps so long. Adding dried berries changes the balance, because the fruit holds more moisture and sugar than the meat does. As a result, pockets of fruit inside a bar can grow mold while the outside looks perfectly clean. Breaking a berry bar open and checking the center takes only a few seconds, and fuzzy spots, a sour smell or a damp feel near the fruit mean that bar goes in the trash.

Plain pemmican runs into a different problem, and that problem is rancid tallow. Good tallow smells mild and almost clean, while rancid tallow gives off a sharp, stale odor and tastes soapy or bitter. Eating a bar like that can bring on nausea and loose stools. And pemmican is prized for packing a lot of calories into a small space, so a bar you can’t keep down wastes exactly the food you were counting on.

Both problems come down to how the bars were made in the first place, so a better option is to make this pemmican recipe that keeps for 20+ years, and rumor has it the bars still taste good after two decades if you apply the #1 trick that comes with it.

How to Tell If Water-Glassed Eggs Have Gone Bad

Water-glassing only works with unwashed eggs, because washing strips off the bloom that seals the shell. And US producers wash theirs before they ever hit the store, so those eggs never had the protection to begin with.

A good jar holds milky or clear liquid with lime settled on the bottom. But a foul smell when you lift the lid tells you it’s gone, and so does a cracked egg or liquid that dropped low enough to leave eggs sitting in the air.

So rinse the lime off before you crack one, since it’s caustic stuff. Then crack each egg into its own bowl, because a bad one announces itself the second it hits the dish. Thin whites are normal, though, so don’t let that worry you.

Still, the shells turn brittle after months in lime and tend to split when boiled. So prick the large end with a pin, or skip the trouble and scramble them. Either way, cook them through, since a bad egg brings salmonella and that kind of diarrhea costs you water you can’t spare.

Even though lime eggs are a good option, a way better option is to make powdered eggs at home. I tried this recipe myself last month, and the eggs came out perfect:

powdered eggs recipe Lost Skills of Independence

Moisture is the only thing that can ruin it. So once you open the can, scoop with a dry spoon and seal it back up tight. Powder that turned into hard lumps or smells stale and glue-like has already gone off.

The best part is that the powder keeps for years in a sealed can, and you only add water to bring it back. From there, you can scramble it for breakfast, work it into cakes, or use it for homemade pasta. 

The Hidden Danger in Old Rice and Dried Beans 

Red kidney beans contain a natural toxin called phytohaemagglutinin, and according to the FDA even a few raw beans can make you sick. The illness hits within a few hours, bringing severe vomiting and diarrhea. Beans warmed but never boiled can be worse than raw ones, so skip the slow cooker. Soak them first, then boil them hard in fresh water.

Old beans make that harder, because years in storage can cost them their ability to soften. When fuel runs low, it’s tempting to pull a stubborn pot off the fire early, and with kidney beans that shortcut is how people get sick. A pressure cooker handles them best, while a pinch of baking soda in the soaking water helps too.

White rice is one of the longest keepers you can store, but brown rice keeps its bran layer and the oil in it turns rancid years sooner. It rarely makes anyone sick, though it tastes bad enough that hungry people throw it out. Moisture causes the other common problem, and your nose usually catches it first. Here’s what to look for before any of it goes into the pot:

  • A musty or sour smell: water got in at some point, and clumped grains or discolored patches say the same.
  • Mold: the toxins survive cooking, so picking out bad grains and eating the rest is a poor gamble.
  • Insect damage: small holes in beans, webbing in the rice, or fine powder at the bottom of the bucket.

A better option? The dry canning method. You heat the jars with the rice or beans inside, then seal them hot with an oxygen absorber, which locks out the moisture and air behind almost every problem above. This way, you can store white rice and dried beans for 25 to 30 years. Find the step-by-step method here.

What Can Go Wrong With Flour and Cornmeal

Flour looks like clean dry powder, so it’s easy to forget it’s a raw farm product. Nobody treats wheat to kill germs before milling, and the CDC has tied several E.coli and Salmonella outbreaks to raw flour. That’s why licking the spoon can make you sick, even when the flour smells perfect. 

Beyond that, here’s what to watch for in storage:

  • Whole wheat, rye, oat, and almond flour: the oily germ turns rancid long before white flour does. Bitter, sharp smell instead of mildly nutty means it’s gone.
  • Stone-ground cornmeal: same problem, while the degerminated kind from the supermarket lasts much longer. Musty smell, hard clumps, or dark specks point to mold that makes aflatoxin, so trash the batch.
  • Weevils and pantry moths: small dark beetles moving through the flour, or silky webbing in the corners of the bag. A few won’t hurt you, but a heavy infestation means the flour took on moisture.
  • Self-rising flour: the baking powder fades over time. Bake one test biscuit before you mix a full batch, or you waste the flour and the fuel.

Good Mold and Bad Mold on Cured Meats

Dry meats, such as “the forever sausage,” often carry a dusty white mold as well, and many of them are made that way on purpose.

Harmless surface mold tends to look dry and powdery, in white or pale gray. By contrast, fuzzy green or black patches that reach down into the meat mean the whole piece should go.

Cured meat comes with its own set of checks, so run through these before anything goes in the pan:

  • Slime: A wet, sticky film on salt pork, sausage or jerky comes from bacteria rather than mold, and no amount of scrubbing makes that meat safe. A sour smell or a sharp whiff of ammonia points to the same thing.
  • Yellowed fat: Fresh fat on cured meat is white or cream colored, so fat that has yellowed and smells stale or painty has gone rancid. That rarely causes real food poisoning, but it upsets your stomach and ruins the taste of everything cooked with it.
  • Underdried jerky: Bend a strip. Well-dried jerky cracks without snapping in two, while a strip that bends easily and feels damp in the middle lets mold grow inside the bag.
  • Heavy salt: Country ham and salt pork can leave you badly thirsty, and with rationed water that’s a cost you can’t spare. Soaking them in fresh water before cooking pulls out a good share of it, though the soaking water comes out of your budget since you can’t drink it after.

Wiping mold off a cured sausage or a ham sends spores into the air, and breathing them in can leave you wheezing for days. That’s worse news if you already deal with asthma.

What’s happening is your body dumping histamine. But luckily, there’s a plant that fights that, now or when SHTF. If you already have The Forgotten Home Apothecary, look for the Histamine Balance Tea on page 118. Stinging nettle is the plant doing the work there, and it’s long been used to calm allergic reactions, itchy skin, and the kind of airway irritation those spores kick off.

But if you don’t want the hassle of making it, get the famous stinging nettle spagyric extract from Nicole Apelian’s official website. I carry it in my bag year-round, mostly through allergy season in spring, but also for hives and the stuffed-up head that comes with dusty work. And what’s special about it is that spagyric pulls more out of the plant than a regular tincture, which is why users rated it five stars. I’m telling you, this nettle extract is something you’ll want on hand at all times.

But if you have severe allergies, keep antihistamines in the stockpile too, like Allegra or Claritin. Wipe the meat down outside when you can, since what’s underneath is usually fine to cook.

If a Stored Meal Makes Someone Sick…

Even careful checks miss things, so it helps to know which symptoms pass on their own and which ones don’t.

Botulism rarely looks like a stomach bug. According to the CDC, it starts in the face, with double vision, drooping eyelids and slurred speech, then spreads down to the chest and the muscles you breathe with. There’s usually no fever, so someone clear-headed who suddenly can’t swallow needs help fast. Bag the jar or can instead of rinsing it, since doctors can test what’s left.

Salmonella and bean toxin are far more common, and healthy adults ride them out. For older folks, the water lost to vomiting and diarrhea is the real danger. Thirst fades with age, so watch for dark urine, dizziness and confusion instead.

To make sure you can take care of someone who got food poisoning from your stockpile, you need this first-aid manual on the shelf, written by a doctor for the days you can’t reach one. This way you will learn:

  • The facial signs that separate botulism from a stomach bug, and the window where the antitoxin still works
  • The homemade rehydration formula doctors use in the field, down to the exact salt and sugar measurements
  • Why the anti-diarrhea pill in most medicine cabinets traps a salmonella infection inside you
  • The three signs that tell you an older person is dangerously dehydrated before they ever feel thirsty
  • How to keep someone breathing and stable through the night when there’s no ambulance coming
  • What to do for a child or an elderly relative, since the doses and danger signs aren’t the same as for a grown adult

Keep it next to your food, and you’ll know what to do on the night something slips through. 


You may also like:

watch a video on how to make bacon long-lastingWhy You Shouldn’t Stockpile Beans and Rice

The Homemade Antibiotic That You Can Smoke (VIDEO)

Signs You’re (Probably) Not Taking Prepping Seriously

The Amish Never Store These Foods in The Root Cellar

How to Make Finger-Licking Brisket in a Jar

The post Read THIS Before Eating Your Survival Food! appeared first on Ask a Prepper.



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How to Make a Candle That Lasts 100 Hours

Estimated reading time: 22 minutes

How to Make a Candle That Lasts 100 Hours

There are a lot of ideas out there about how to get something to burn for 100 hours or more. We’re going to cover some of them, but we'll start with the true definition of a candle, which is a wick contained in wax.

The truth is, most conventional candles won’t burn for 100 hours. Their burn-life varies depending on a number of factors, particularly their size. But while size matters, there are other factors that allow a candle to burn long-term.

Who Needs a 100-Hour Candle?

The benefit of a long burning candle is that it simplifies things. Rather than stocking multiple candles or constantly finding replacements, a long-burning candle can be extinguished and relit without a lot of fussing around.

That can be a benefit in an emergency when the power is out and a few candles are the only way to find your way around in the dark. A long-burning candle is also more cost-effective.

They might cost a little more to make upfront, but if you look at the price for multiple, conventional candles with the same burn time, it’s cheaper to have a candle that keeps going and going.


100-Hour Candle Burning

Candle Making 101

There are books about candle making, but the actual process is fairly basic and watching a video or reading an article or two should give you all you need to know. Here are links to some candle making sources to consider:

Before we get into the basic steps for making a few variations on a 100-hour candle, it’s worth covering some of the factors that allow a candle to burn longer. Some of it has to do with the materials and the amount of wax you use to make your candle, but there are some other small and surprising factors that can extend the burn-life of any candle.

Consider the following:

Candle Wicks

We’re accustomed to candle wicks made from braided cotton or fabric. They’re a proven material for candles, and the burn-life of the material is determined by the “ply.” A candle wick is a braided combination of small strings, and the larger the ply, the larger the wick.

A 24-ply candle wick has 24 threads in the braid. A 45-ply wick is often identified as the best wick size for a long burn, but all of this assumes you have the time to buy or order wicks online for candle making.

In an emergency, there are a variety of other materials that can be used in place of a braided wick. Here are a few possibilities in case you’re without some resources for candle making:

  • Cotton shoelaces
  • Small strips of braided fabric
  • A strand from a mop
  • A wooden skewer
  • Twisted paper towel, napkin or toilet paper
  • Small diameter, hemp rope, or string
Improvised Candle Wicks

All of these materials will burn with the characteristics of a candle wick not only in wax, but fats, oils, and some of the other fuels we’ll cover. A specifically braided candle wick may be best, but many of these alternatives work surprisingly well.

A Bit More About Wicks

Here are some other things to remember on the subject of candle wicks that go a bit beyond the materials used to extend the burn-time of any candle:

Trim Your Wicks

As a candle burns, the wicks can increase in length, curl, or worse – drop bits of charred materials into the pool of wax at the top of the candle. After your candle has been extinguished for a few minutes, or before you relight, make sure you trim the wick to a ¼ from the top of the wax.

Wick trimming also prevents the candle from burning too hot and too tall. This burns off wax faster and that’s not the idea when you’re going for a long-term burn.

Of course there are wick trimmers you could buy, but most of us use a small pair of scissors or nail clippers. It doesn’t matter as long as you remember to trim your wicks before relighting.

If you ever have a wick that is broken off at the base, or trimmed too far – push a length of toothpick into the wax next to the wick and it will burn until the wax burns down to the original candle wick again.

Dip The Wicks

Waxed Wicks

Regardless of the material you use for a wick, it’s wise to dip any wick in melted wax and let it dry on parchment paper or suspended from a stick or string. This will give the wick some structural integrity when you’re filling your candle container or mold with melted wax. The melted wax will melt some of the wax on the wick, but it gives you a fighting chance to keep the wick straight.

There are also candle wick weights that are circular and flattened that can keep your wick in place while the melted wax sets. Attach these weights to your candle wick before dipping the wick in wax so it’s firmly attached to the wick material.

You could also suspend the wick from a stick or pencil over the candle mold to keep it in position. A lot of that depends on the type of candle you’re making, but if it helps to keep the wick straight and in position, do it.

3 wicks versus 1 wick

It may come as a surprise, but a 3-wick candle can actually burn longer than a single wick. That’s because 3 wicks melt the wax on the surface into an even pool of wax that prevents tunneling. More wick maintenance is inevitable with 3 wicks, but if you watch your wicks and use the right wax in the right size, a 3-wick candle can be a 100-hour winner.

Test Your Wick Size

Choosing the right wick size isn't always an exact science, and the only way to know for sure is to do a test burn. A properly sized wick will create a melt pool that reaches the edge of the candle within about 3 to 4 hours, with a steady flame about an inch tall.

If the flame is tall, flickers a lot, or gives off black smoke, the wick is probably too big. That means you're burning through wax faster than you need to. If the flame is small and weak and the melt pool never makes it to the edges, the wick is too small and the candle will tunnel.

It's a good idea to make one test candle before you make a batch. That way, you can adjust the wick size before you've used up all your wax.

Some Things About Candles You Maybe Didn’t Know

The first time you light a candle you should let it burn for 4 to 6 hours.

Hopefully you’re doing this at night when you need the candle, but try to at least get a 4-hour burn on a new candle.

That’s because there’s actually something called “candle memory.” A candle seems to remember how deep it burned and will remember that and repeat the burning behavior. The result is consistently poor burning once the candle memory has been set.

The reason for a long first burn is to avoid something called “tunneling.” Tunneling occurs when a pool of wax has not been allowed to form across the top of the candle. If only a small pocket of wax has been melted and burned off, the wick will begin to burrow the flame down into the candle, literally creating a tunnel.

It results in a very inefficient burn and can actually bury the wick in melted wax when extinguished. That first burn sets the stage for how efficiently the candle will burn throughout its burn-life, so try to get it off to a good start with at least a 4-hour burn.

Don’t Blow It Out

This is a head-scratcher for a lot of us. After a lifetime of birthday parties since childhood, where we’re always told to “blow out the candles,” there’s some advice out there to use a snuffer.

Candle Snuffer

Snuffers have been around for centuries, and there’s a reason. A snuffer protects the integrity of the wick and once again helps to prevent bits of wick and debris from breaking off onto the surface of the candle. The result is a clean candle and a clean burn.

Snuffing also prevents a wick from smoking after the flame is out, and while the wick cools, it will actually draw some melted wax up and into the wick. Once this hardens, it’s a lot easier to trim that wick.

You don’t have to buy a snuffer. A thimble taped to a stick works in a pinch, or you can watch a video or read an article all about how to improvise one.

Salt the Candle

Sodium chloride or salt slows the melting and dripping of a candle. There’s two ways to use it. One is to sprinkle some salt on the top of a burning candle after the wax pool has formed. The other way is to dissolve 2 tablespoons of salt in two cups of water and soak the candle for 24 hours. Dry it off and it should burn better with less dripping.

Keep It Out of Drafts

A candle burning near an open window, a fan, or a heating vent won't burn evenly. The flame will lean and flicker, which causes the candle to burn faster on one side and drip more. That's wasted wax.

Place your candle somewhere sheltered from air currents. If that isn't possible, a glass hurricane shade or a tall jar around the candle will protect the flame and help it burn more slowly and evenly.

Don't Burn It Too Long at Once

That first long burn is important, but after that, it's best to limit burn sessions to about 4 hours at a time. When a candle burns for too long, the wick tends to “mushroom,” or build up carbon on the tip. The flame gets bigger, the candle gets hotter, and the wax burns off faster. Extinguish it, let it cool for a couple of hours, trim the wick, and relight.

Freezing the Candle?

There’s some advice out there that recommends freezing a candle for a couple of hours to extend its burn life. Unfortunately, it could also cause the candle to crack and significantly reduce its burn time.

It might be worth trying with a paraffin candle, but some of the more expensive wax options probably aren’t worth the risk, and they already have good, long-burning characteristics.

How to Prolong the Burn Time of my Candle

Get More Light Out of Your Candle

If you're relying on candles during a power outage, you want to get as much light as possible out of every one. Placing a mirror behind your candle will reflect light back into the room and nearly double the amount of light you get. A piece of aluminum foil wrapped around a sheet of cardboard and placed behind the candle works too.

Light-colored walls also help, so if you have a choice, burn your candles in a room with white or pale walls rather than a dark one.

Wax Facts

Most candles are made from paraffin. It’s a petroleum derivative and is the cheapest form of wax. As usual, you get what you pay for, and paraffin has the shortest burn-life of the all the waxes we’ll cover.

They also tend to be the most odorous, and any chemicals they give off while burned are of course derived from petroleum. All of that notwithstanding, they’re relatively safe and the most popular candle wax in use.

Soy Wax

Soy Wax Bag

Soy wax is derived from the oil in soybeans. The oil is hydrogenated to a wax and is often used in candle making. It does not give off smoky odors, harmful by-products or black soot because it’s vegetable based.

It has a mild scent and burns slower than paraffin due to its slow-burning characteristics. Soy wax also pools easier and better than paraffin so a candle is less likely to tunnel. It’s also somewhat inexpensive but not as cheap as paraffin.

One thing to keep in mind is that not all soy wax is the same. Container soy wax is soft and is designed to be poured into jars. If you try to make a freestanding candle out of it, it may not hold its shape very well. If you're making a pillar candle like the one in the instructions below, look for soy wax labeled as “pillar” wax or a soy blend made for molds.

Coconut Wax

You don’t hear a lot about coconut wax, but it’s emerging as a type of wax used more and more in candles. It is made from the meat of the coconut which is then hydrogenated to thicken it into a wax.

Contrary to what you might expect, it does not give off a coconut scent due to the hydrogenation process. It’s a clean burning wax type and also burns longer than paraffin because it burns at a lower temperature and costs a little more than paraffin.

Beeswax

Beeswax is the historical choice when it comes to candle making. Many houses of worship will only use beeswax candles. It burns clean and long. It’s obviously organic and gives off no noxious fumes or chemicals. It’s also the most expensive and gives off a faint scent of honey when burned.

Wax Blends and Additives

It didn’t take people too long to engage in some candle wax alchemy. Many of these combinations combine waxes to defray the cost or enhance performance.

Some unscrupulous merchants will combine paraffin with another wax and tout it as beeswax or coconut wax and neglect to mention there’s a percentage of paraffin in the mix. That’s another benefit of making your own. You’ll always know what’s in it.

Whether or not you blend your waxes is up to you. Soy wax and paraffin wax makes the most economical blend with the longer lasting properties of the soy wax as a benefit.

There are two additives that can extend the burn-time for a candle. If you want to make this complicated, you can try it. It could be the cheapest way to get paraffin to burn longer.

Vegetable Stearin

This is essentially stearic acid. It’s a palm oil-based candle additive. It has a high melting point making the wax harder to melt and extending candle life.

Homogenizer BE60

This stuff is starting to sound scary, but it’s not that bad. It’s an additive that optimizes the combustion rate and fixes the oils in candles.

The recommended ratio is 0.2% to 0.5% of the total weight of the candle. It can be added to all waxes but is unnecessary if all you’re trying to accomplish is 100-hours for a candle. If you’re out to set some candle records, give it a try.

Guide to the 7 Types of Candle Wax

Candle Shape and Size

Candles come in a variety of shapes, although most tend to be elongated with various widths. The best shape for a long-burning candle is cylindrical. In actual fact, the size and shape of a candle also affects the burn time. A small votive candle will burn slower than a larger, cylindrical candle, but the small amount of wax in a votive won’t get it to 100-hours.

Generally, the best height and diameter for a 100-hour candle varies depending on the wax type, and we’ll cover those parameters in a chart a little later.

Candle Molds and Containers

You basically have two options with a candle: Mold it into a solid shape or contain the wax in a jar or container.

A container is a little more difficult to maintain as the wax or fuel burns down. This is particularly true with any wick maintenance or debris that ends up in the wax or fuel (oil/shortening/etc.) Candles in jars or containers always look pristine when first put together, but after half of the wax or fuel is gone, we rarely see a picture.

Candles made of solid wax are more accessible in terms of wax and wick maintenance although they should still have a plate, dish, or other barrier between the candle bottom and any surface. In spite of your best efforts, candles drip and open flames are always a fire hazard.

You can buy candle molds online or at stores like Hobby Lobby. You can also improvise your own candle molds with packages that are cylindrical and made of cardboard. Some coffee cans and others products have this type of packaging. The cardboard is important so you can tear and peel it off once the wax has hardened.

Mason jars are another possibility but a wide mouth jar is better so you can access the wick for trimming or to remove debris from melted wax.

Even something as basic as a glass bowl can be used to contain the wax, especially for a 3-wick candle.

Wax, Fat and Oil Burn Times

Regardless of what you use as fuel for your candle, the amount you need for a 100-hour burn is going to vary. This is good to know if all you have are certain types of wax or fuels and want to create a 100-hour candle.

As a general rule, 1 ounce of wax will burn in a candle for 7+ hours on average. This depends on other factors like wick type and size, candle size, and general candle maintenance.

Here are some average burn times for various waxes, fats, and oils. The averages assume ideal burning conditions and wick maintenance. If in doubt or unable to maintain ideal conditions, just use more of the wax or fuel if you can spare it.

Wax or FuelAmountBurn HoursSize
Paraffin1-ounce4 to 5 hours22 ozs./6”H x 3”W CANDLE
Soy Wax1-ounce5+ hours20 ozs./5”H x 3”W CANDLE
Coconut Wax1-ounce6 to 7 hours16 ozs./4”H x 3”W CANDLE
Beeswax1-ounce7+ hours14 OZS./3.5”Hx3”W CANDLE
Vegetable Oil1-ounce2 hours50 ozs. In a wide mouth jar
Shortening (Crisco)1-ounce6+ hours17 ozs. In a wide mouth mason jar
Butter (butter candles are a tradition in Tibet)1-ounce2 hours50 ozs in a wide mouth jar

The Best 100-Hour Candle

5×3 Soy Candle

Considering what we’ve covered so far, we’re going to select the best and most affordable elements to make a wax-based, 100-hour candle. Here’s the winning combination:

Ingredients:

Equipment:

  • Hot plate
  • Metal pot with spout
  • Candle thermometer (or candy thermometer)
  • Cardboard tube at least 5-inches high and 3-inches wide (We used an empty cardboard package used to hold Progresso bread crumbs.)
Cardboard Mold
  • Wooden skewer or pencil to support wick and keep it centered
  • Metal or ceramic plate to support the candle when done (We ended up using an empty tuna can.)

Directions:

1. Weigh the bottom of the wick either with a wick shoe or tie the wick to a washer or metal nut.

2. Push the skewer through the side of the cardboard mold about 6-inches high. We’re making a 5-inch tall candle so you want at least an inch of the wick sticking up. We’ll trim it later before lighting for the first time.

3. Lower the wick into the cardboard mold and try to center it in the bottom.

4. Tape the top of the wick to the skewer or pencil to keep the top centered.

Wick Tied and Supported

Note: You may need to use another skewer or pencil to move the bottom weight of the wick back to center after pouring in the melted wax.

5. Tape the bottom of the cardboard mold to a piece of wood or some other surface so it doesn’t tip while you pour the wax.

6. Put 20 ounces of soy wax into your metal pot and begin to melt it over the hot plate on medium heat.

Note: If you have one, a double boiler is a safer way to melt wax because it prevents the wax from overheating. You can make your own by placing a metal pitcher or a coffee can inside a pot of simmering water.

Soy Wax Melting

7. Stir gently as the wax melts. You could use the thermometer to gently stir and while you monitor the temperature.

8. You do not want the temperature to exceed 200 degrees Fahrenheit. That could burn the wax and lead to a higher risk of flammability.

Soy Wax Melted

9. Once the wax is melted and clear, slowly and carefully pour it into the mold until it is 1-inch below the top of the wick.

Hot Wax in Mold

10. Add hot water to the pot and bring to a boil to clean the pot. While the water is boiling, stir your thermometer around to melt any wax that has adhered to the thermometer.

Candle Wax Hardening

11. Let the wax harden in the mold for 24 hours.

Note: As wax cools, it shrinks. You may notice a dip or sinkhole forming around the wick as the candle hardens. If that happens, save a little of your wax, remelt it, and pour a thin layer over the top to fill in the hole. This is called a “second pour” and it keeps your candle burning evenly.

12. Once the wax has hardened, carefully cut a slit in the top of the cardboard and begin to peel off the cardboard.

Removing Cardboard Mold

13. Drip some wax onto your metal or ceramic plate and set the candle into the melted wax so it adheres to the base.

14. Trim the wick to ¼-inch from the surface of the candle.

Wick Trimmed

15. If it’s an emergency, you’re new 100-hour candle is good to go. If you have the time, let the candle continue to harden and cure for about a week.

100-Hour Candle and Base

Storing Your Candles

If you're making 100-hour candles for emergencies, you'll probably be storing them for a while. Keep them in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight and heat sources, which can cause them to soften, warp, or fade. Wrap them in plastic wrap or store them in a sealed container to keep dust and debris out. Dust on the wick can cause it to burn poorly.

If you're using soy wax, you might notice a white, crystalline coating forming on your candles over time. This is called “frosting.” It's completely natural and doesn't affect how the candle burns.

Save Your Leftover Wax

Even the best candles leave a little wax behind. Rather than throwing it away, save the stubs and leftover wax in a coffee can. Once you've collected enough, you can melt it down and make a brand new candle. In an emergency, that leftover wax could be the difference between having light and sitting in the dark.

Candle Safety

It's easy to forget that candles are an open flame, especially when you're using them every night during a power outage. Here are a few basic safety tips:

  • Never leave a burning candle unattended or burn one while you're sleeping.
  • Keep candles at least 12 inches away from anything that can catch fire, like curtains, bedding, and paper.
  • Keep candles out of reach of children and pets.
  • Stop burning a candle when there's about ½ inch of wax left. If it's in a container, the glass can overheat and crack.
  • Keep a fire extinguisher nearby, and never use water to put out a wax fire.

Some Quick Variations

The process for a wax candle is the same with any wax you use whether it’s paraffin, soy wax, coconut wax or beeswax. However, there is a lot out there about Crisco candles and other types of fuels using a wick to create light. All of them promise significantly long burn times.

Rather than dive into all the details, here are some links to some very good ideas for improvising a candle when you don’t have the luxury of exotic waxes, or in the event of a rapidly unfolding emergency.

Candles are Actually Easy to Make

Like so many things, once you’ve tried something it’s easier to try it again. Over time you can experiment with wax blends and even fragrances and scents. The important thing to is to know how to improvise light with candle in and emergency, and know how to make it last and last.

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Former FBI Official Urges Americans to Stockpile Emergency Supplies: Here’s What He Says You Need

When a former FBI deputy director tells Americans to start stockpiling, people listen. On his podcast this week, Dan Bongino urged listeners to keep at least three days of food and backup power on hand. “Get your stuff today,” he said. “Please. Do it for your family.”

To be clear, this wasn’t a new federal emergency order. It was advice from a former official, but it lines up closely with what FEMA has recommended for years and with what governments around the world are now telling their own citizens.

What Bongino Said

Bongino, who also served in the Secret Service and the NYPD, made the comments on The Dan Bongino Show on Monday, according to UNILAD. He told listeners to get an emergency radio, batteries, emergency food, a way to collect rainwater, and water filters and purification tablets.

His comments came hours after reports detailed a Pentagon plan called FORTRESS, designed to keep military bases supplied and running for at least 90 days even if civilian infrastructure fails. Bongino’s point was simple: if the military is planning to stand on its own, households should too.

He urged people to make “Fortress my house” a priority, warning that neighbors won’t have extra food to share. He also said panic kills, and that preparing ahead of time is the best way to avoid it.

He’s Not the Only One Sounding the Alarm

Governments across Europe and Asia have been pushing the same message. The UK, Sweden, Germany, Ireland, the Netherlands, and France have all urged households to keep food, water, and medicine on hand for sudden emergencies.

The UK’s updated guidance, released this month, recommends three days of supplies in case severe weather or cyberattacks interrupt essential services. Japan has announced it will formally urge every household to keep at least three days of food, water, and toilet supplies.

Cyberattacks on essential services aren’t hypothetical, either. This summer, hackers broke into control systems at water utilities across the country, as we reported in our coverage of the attacks on America’s water supply.

What You Actually Need

FEMA’s Ready.gov basic disaster supplies kit is the best place to start, and it matches most of what Bongino listed. Here’s how to build it out.

Water

Store at least 1 gallon of water per person per day. The CDC recommends keeping at least a 3-day supply, and a 2-week supply if possible.

Bongino’s advice to add filtration makes sense for longer emergencies. A squeeze-style water filter and a pack of water purification tablets take up almost no space, and using them together gives you better protection than either one alone.

If you have the space, a rain barrel gives you a backup supply for washing and flushing, and for drinking once it’s filtered and treated. Check your state’s rules first, since a few places restrict rainwater collection.

Food

Start with three days of non-perishable food your family will actually eat, like canned meat, peanut butter, crackers, and protein bars. Then keep building toward two weeks.

Freeze-dried emergency food buckets are a quick way to add calories with a long shelf life. Just don’t forget a manual can opener for everything else.

Power and Communications

Bongino specifically called out backup power. A hand-crank emergency radio that receives NOAA Weather Radio All Hazards keeps you informed when the internet and cell service go down, since it broadcasts official warnings around the clock.

Stock extra batteries for flashlights and radios, and keep phones charged with a power bank. For longer outages, a portable power station can run lights and recharge devices for days.

The Rest of the Kit

Round it out with a first aid kit, any prescription medications you rely on, a flashlight, a whistle, garbage bags and moist towelettes for sanitation, and paper maps of your area. Ready.gov also recommends dust masks, plus plastic sheeting and duct tape for sheltering in place.

Don’t Panic, Prepare

Bongino’s message wasn’t that disaster is coming tomorrow. It was that the time to prepare is before you need to.

Three days of supplies won’t carry you through a long crisis, but it covers the most common emergencies: storms, blackouts, and the first chaotic days after something bigger. Once you have that covered, keep building toward two weeks.

Start this weekend with water and a radio. Everything else can follow.


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The Fed Faces Another Inflation Decision: What Rising Prices Mean for Your Emergency Budget

The Federal Reserve wraps up a two-day meeting today, and the timing could hardly be more awkward. Inflation is climbing again, energy prices are through the roof, and voters head to the polls for the midterm elections on November 3.

Most economists expect the Fed to leave interest rates where they are this afternoon. The bigger question is what comes next, because a December rate hike is very much on the table.

For preppers, the headline number matters less than what it does to your grocery bill, your debt, and your ability to keep building supplies.

Where Things Stand

Last month, the Fed raised its benchmark rate by a quarter point to a range of 3.75% to 4%, its first increase since 2023. In its September policy statement, the committee said plainly that inflation remains elevated and promised to deliver price stability.

Today’s decision is due at 2 p.m. Eastern. Futures markets have priced in roughly a 90% chance the Fed holds steady, while some economists argue at least one more hike is needed before the year ends.

The decision also lands with political pressure building over borrowing costs. With the midterms less than a week away, every move the Fed makes will be read through a political lens.

Inflation Is Back, and Energy Is Driving It

The latest Consumer Price Index report from the Bureau of Labor Statistics shows prices rose 3.7% over the 12 months ending in September, up from 3.4% in August. The core rate, which strips out food and energy, was a much milder 2.6%.

Energy is the real story. Gasoline prices jumped 34.2% over the past year, and fuel oil, which many rural homes depend on for heat, is up a staggering 74.2%. Gasoline alone accounted for more than half of September’s monthly increase.

Food has held up better so far, rising 2.5% over the year. But some pantry staples are climbing faster than average, with rice up 7.1%, shelf-stable fish and seafood up 8.9%, and coffee up 7.1%.

High fuel costs also tend to work their way into grocery prices with a delay. We covered that risk in our report on diesel prices and the $8 billion emergency farm aid package.

What This Means for Your Emergency Budget

Debt Gets More Expensive

Most credit cards carry variable rates that move with the Fed’s benchmark. If the Fed hikes in December, any balance you carry gets more expensive to hold, and that eats into money you could be putting toward savings or supplies.

Pay down high-interest debt first, especially credit cards. An emergency fund does little good if it sits next to a balance growing at double-digit interest.

Your Cash Cushion Matters More

Inflation quietly shrinks the buying power of savings, but cash is still your first line of defense when a job disappears or the furnace dies. Keep some physical cash at home for outages, and the rest in an account you can reach quickly.

Higher rates do have one upside. Savings accounts and short-term CDs tend to pay more when the Fed raises rates, so shop around instead of leaving your emergency fund in an account that earns next to nothing.

How Preppers Can Stay Ahead of Rising Prices

Buy Staples Before the Next Jump

When prices are climbing, the food you buy today is cheaper than the food you’ll buy next year. Focus on what your family actually eats, like rice, beans, oats, canned meat, and fish, and rotate it so nothing goes to waste.

Bulk buying only pays off if you store it right. Food-grade 5-gallon buckets with gamma lids and Mylar bags with oxygen absorbers protect rice and beans from pests and moisture for years.

Protect Your Fuel Investment

With gasoline up more than a third in a year, every gallon you store is worth more than it used to be. If you keep stored gas for a generator or vehicle, add a fuel stabilizer and rotate it on a schedule so it doesn’t go stale.

If you heat with fuel oil or propane, consider filling up before winter demand pushes prices higher. Even a partial fill now can soften the blow if a December hike and a cold snap arrive at the same time.

Track What You Spend

Keep a simple price book for the 20 items you buy most often. When a staple starts trending up, you’ll know it’s time to stock up, and when it dips, you’ll know to buy deeper.

The Bottom Line

Whatever the Fed announces this afternoon, inflation isn’t going away overnight. Energy prices are high, borrowing is getting more expensive, and another hike may be just weeks away.

You can’t control interest rates, but you can control your debt, your cash cushion, and your pantry. Every can on the shelf now is one you won’t have to buy at next year’s prices.


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Tuesday, October 27, 2026

27 Clever Hiding Spots for Your Emergency Supplies

Estimated reading time: 8 minutes

27 Clever Hiding Spots for Your Emergency Supplies

Preppers know that the gear they are storing to live through a major disaster is more valuable than a stack of cash. But thieves and government agents know that, too. If you want to keep your valuables, you need to find the best hiding spots for them.

A few survival items such as a fire starter or a water purifier could mean the difference between life and death after a collapse. Creativity, ingenuity and a little skill can keep these items safe.

Here are some ideas for hiding your valuables. Use the ideas to get your own creative juices flowing. Take a look around your property and think outside the box.

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1. Air Vents

Air vents are some of the most inconspicuous things in a house. A thief isn’t going to stop and wonder why a vent is on one wall or another. Cutting a hole in a wall or in the floor and putting a dummy vent over it is an easy way to stash valuables.

2. Air Ducts

Air ducts are another option for smaller things that won’t block the airflow. Duct tape the goods near the opening or attach a cord/string to something that is pushed further into the ductwork.

3. PVC Pipes

PVC pipes under a house or a sink are very normal. Again, a thief doesn’t know what does or doesn’t belong. A few fake pipes lined up to look like they belong can provide a hiding spot for small goods.

4. Attic Spaces

Attic spaces with exposed insulation or even sheetrock can provide plenty of hiding spots. Hiding things behind walls or in dark corners is very effective.

5. Under Floorboards

It’s probably one of the oldest tricks in the book, but it works. No one is going to check under twelve hundred square feet of flooring. Make it less obvious. Putting furniture over the area provides more security.

6. Crawlspaces

Crawlspaces are good for larger items, but they can be a little more obvious. It takes a brave, desperate soul to go scurrying into a dark crawlspace.

7. The Kitchen

The kitchen provides plenty of hiding spaces. Avoid the tried-and-true places like inside cereal boxes or coffee cans. Those were great, but unfortunately, they have been used.

Think more along the lines of false walls at the back of a deep cupboard. It only has to be a couple of inches. A piece of plywood that blends in with the cabinetry can work well. Under the kitchen sink there is always a shelf. Don’t be afraid to use the space under that shelf.

8. Drop Ceilings

Drop ceilings can conceal very lightweight items. Pushing up a tile is fairly easy.

9. Picture Frames

Taping small things inside a picture frame is very spy-like, but effective. Larger framed artwork generally has some space behind it that can hold larger items.

10. A Hole in the Wall Hidden by a Picture

A hole in the wall hidden by a picture is another oldie but goodie. You only want to do this if you know anything about construction. You don’t want to cut through electrical wiring or run into plumbing. Also, don’t leave the hole open. Put a square of sheetrock over the hole and a picture over the space to disguise it.

11. Under Stair Boards

There is lots of space under every stair. You can put hinges on the stair board to make it quick and easy to get to your goods.

12. Buried Survival Caches

Burying survival caches around your property is another option. They don’t have to be big. Make sure the goods are sealed up tight to prevent moisture damage. The caches don’t need to be deep. Using a couple Ziploc bags placed inside a PVC pipe is all you need. You can bury backpacks, old mayo jars, or anything that will keep out the water and dirt.

13. Potted Plants

Potted plants are a great way to hide in plain sight. Again, stick your goods inside a plastic bag sealed tight and put it in the bottom of the plant.

14. Under the Couch

In the space between the springs. How many times have you lost the remote in that area? The beauty of that hiding spot is no one will feel it when they sit on the couch, and the sheer fabric that hides the springs on the bottom acts as another layer of protection.

15. Linen Closets

Linen closets are boring. Not a lot of thieves go after the towels and sheets. You could do the fake wall in the back or hide things folded in sheets at the back of the closet.

16. Hollow Interior Doors

Most interior doors are hollow. Drilling a hole on top of the door can get you access. You’ll want to attach a string to the bag or container and secure it at the top in order to retrieve your goods.

17. Storage Totes

Totes in the garage or shoved in the closet labeled with ‘winter clothes’ or ‘taxes’ are an option. Place the goods you’re hiding in the middle or at the bottom of the tote.

18. Laundry Soap Containers

Laundry soap containers are an option for hiding things in plain sight. Use an empty container and fill it with your valuables. Sealing in a bag is an option if you want to fill the container with water to make it heavy. You don’t want a thief picking up the container and giving it a good shake.

19. Paint Cans

Paint cans are in nearly every garage, but they don’t have to be filled with paint. Tossing some things in the can and putting them on the shelf with other paint cans gives you an easy hiding spot.

20. Fish Tanks

If you have a fish tank, hiding small items under the gravel is an option. This is somewhat of a known area, but it isn’t blatantly obvious. Make sure the gravel in the tank is deep enough to keep your stuff hidden in case your fish get wild and move gravel around.

21. Dry Dog Food Bags

Dry dog food bags, whether you have a dog or not, are not going to be a huge target for theft. Seal up your goods, put them in the bottom of the bag, and dump the dog food on top.

22. Hollowed-Out Books

Hollowed-out books are another oldie. This works best if you have a lot of books on the shelf. Because this hiding spot has been around for centuries, a thief with a good eye might be able to spot one of these books if it’s obvious. Not so easy if it’s packed onto a bookshelf with twenty other books with similar covers.

23. Toilet Tanks

Hiding things in a bag in the toilet tank is an option.

24. Clothes Hampers

The bottom of a clothes hamper is much like the dog food option. Just to be safe, taping the item/s to the bottom and then tossing in some ‘dirty’ clothes to hide it works best. If a looter dumps out the clothes, the goods will stick to the bottom.

25. Old Coats and Ugly Sweaters

An old coat or ugly sweater in the back of the closet can disguise things hidden under the shirt. Hide stuff in the pockets as well.

26. Toe-Kick Space Under Kitchen Cabinets

There’s a gap of about four inches between the bottom of your lower cabinets and the floor, hidden behind a thin strip of trim called the toe kick. Pry the strip off carefully, slide flat items like cash, documents, or a sealed bag of fire starters into the space, and hold the trim back in place with a couple of small magnets or clips so you can get back in quickly. Nobody gets down on the floor to inspect the base of a cabinet.

27. Hollow Curtain Rods

Many curtain rods are hollow metal tubes with removable end caps. Roll up some cash or slide in small items like a spare key, a ferro rod, or a strip of water purification tablets, then put the cap back on. Thieves might look behind the curtains, but they won’t think to look inside the rod holding them up.

Thieves will generally not take a lot of time searching for valuables. This is why it’s crucial to hide things in places that require some thought to find. Thieves want quick and easy with little risk.

Be careful hiding things in places that used to be really clever, like a tampon box. Too many people talked about it and now it’s not so discreet. The goal is to stay one step ahead and, most importantly, keep it a secret. Tell no one—not even the friendly next-door neighbor.

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