Daily Survival

Tuesday, June 30, 2026

Does Premium Gas Contain Ethanol?

Yes, in most cases premium gasoline contains ethanol, just like regular and mid grade gasoline. The vast majority of gas sold in the United States, regardless of octane rating, is blended as E10, meaning it contains up to 10 percent ethanol. Buying a higher octane fuel does not automatically mean you are getting a pure gasoline product. If ethanol content matters to you, especially for long term fuel storage or small engine use, you need to check the pump label and look for ethanol free options specifically rather than assuming premium solves the problem.

This matters more than most people realize when you are preparing for emergencies. The U.S. Energy Information Administration confirms that nearly all gasoline sold in the country is blended with ethanol, primarily to meet renewable fuel standards and reduce emissions. Octane rating and ethanol content are two completely separate properties of fuel, and one does not determine the other.

Why People Assume Premium Gas Is Ethanol Free

The confusion is understandable. Premium gas is marketed as a cleaner, higher performance product, and many people associate higher price with higher purity. In reality, the premium label only refers to the octane rating, which is a measure of the fuel’s resistance to knocking or pre ignition in high compression engines. It says nothing about whether ethanol was added during blending.

Octane numbers commonly seen at the pump are 87 for regular, 89 for mid grade, and 91 to 93 for premium. Ethanol can be blended into any of these. In fact, ethanol itself has a naturally high octane rating, which is one reason refiners use it. Adding ethanol can actually help a fuel reach a higher octane number more affordably, so premium fuel is not just compatible with ethanol blending, it is sometimes assisted by it.

How to Tell If Your Gas Has Ethanol

Every fuel pump in the United States is required to display a label if the gasoline contains more than a small percentage of ethanol. Look for a small sticker near the payment screen or nozzle that says something like Contains up to 10% Ethanol or E10. If the pump does not have this label, the station is required to disclose ethanol content somewhere on site, so ask an attendant if you are unsure.

E10 fuel contains up to 10 percent ethanol and is the standard blend at most stations.
E15 contains up to 15 percent ethanol and is approved only for certain newer vehicles.
E85, also called flex fuel, can contain 51 to 83 percent ethanol and is meant for flex fuel vehicles only.
Ethanol free gas, sometimes labeled as 100% gasoline or pure gas, contains no ethanol at all.

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, fuel retailers must clearly label dispensers for any blend above 10 percent ethanol, but disclosure rules for E10 can be less consistent, so reading the small print at the pump is always worth the extra few seconds.

Why Ethanol Content Matters for Preppers

If you store fuel for generators, chainsaws, vehicles, or backup equipment, ethanol content is one of the most important things to pay attention to, arguably more important than octane rating. Ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air. Over time in a storage container, this can lead to phase separation, where water and ethanol settle at the bottom of the tank while gasoline floats on top. Running an engine on this separated mixture can cause corrosion, clogged fuel lines, and damage to carburetors and fuel injectors.

Ethanol blended fuel also tends to degrade faster than ethanol free gasoline, often losing its combustibility within three to six months even with a stabilizer added. This is a serious concern for anyone maintaining a fuel reserve for emergencies, since the last thing you want is unreliable fuel when the power grid goes down.

Choosing the Right Fuel for Stored Equipment

For long term storage and small engines like generators, lawn equipment, boats, and motorcycles, ethanol free gasoline is almost always the better choice, even though it usually costs more per gallon. Many small engine manufacturers explicitly recommend ethanol free fuel or fuel with no more than 10 percent ethanol, and using anything higher, like E15, can void warranties and damage seals and gaskets not designed for it.

The Environmental Protection Agency notes that engines not specifically designed for higher ethanol blends can experience accelerated wear, which is why checking your equipment’s owner manual before fueling matters as much as checking the pump label.

If ethanol free gas is not available locally, the next best option is using a high quality fuel stabilizer rated for ethanol blends, rotating your stored fuel every few months, and storing it in sealed, UV resistant containers away from temperature swings that accelerate moisture absorption.

Build Your Own Off-Grid Backup Systems Before You Need Them

Power outages are only one part of the preparedness equation. If you’re serious about becoming more self-reliant, knowing how to produce your own water, food, energy, and other essentials can make all the difference.

No-Grid Survival Projects shows you how to build practical, low-cost projects that help you rely less on public utilities and more on your own property.

You’ll discover how to build:

Rainwater collection and storage systems
Off-grid water filtration solutions
DIY food production projects
Renewable energy setups
Long-term preservation and self-sufficiency systems

Get the No-Grid Survival Projects book today and start building your own resilient homestead before the next emergency catches you unprepared!

The Bottom Line

Premium gas almost always contains ethanol unless it is specifically labeled as ethanol free. Octane rating tells you about engine performance and knock resistance, not about fuel composition. For everyday driving in a modern vehicle, this usually is not a major concern. But for anyone maintaining backup fuel supplies, generators, or small engines as part of a preparedness plan, seeking out ethanol free gasoline and labeling your stored containers accordingly can prevent costly damage and ensure your equipment actually starts when you need it most.

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The post Does Premium Gas Contain Ethanol? appeared first on Ask a Prepper.

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Monday, June 29, 2026

What To Plant In July

Today, it’s all about what to plant in July. You still have plenty of time to plant seeds or seedlings this month. It’s not too late to grow and enjoy a fall harvest crop in late summer or early fall before the first frost date. By the way, how is your garden doing with the warm soil conditions? There is something special about a fall garden that is still in bloom and provides veggies you can enjoy all winter.

One positive aspect of this recent gardening season is that most of the country has experienced ample water from heavy winter snow and numerous spring and early summer rainstorms. We didn’t have to plant those drought-tolerant plants this growing season.

I like to update this post every year with new tips. This week, I would typically be planting more cilantro, carrots, zucchini, green onions, and green beans. You may recall that I’ve relocated to the north to build a small home so that I won’t have a garden this year. Hopefully, next year, when the construction is complete, I can lay out my small garden plot.

It’s been nearly four years, and it’s frustrating, but that’s just the way it is. Thankfully, after three years of paying for climate-controlled storage units, our food storage and preps are in place. My area in the garage is still a mess, but I have to wait until it cools down to clean it up and organize it.

Where I buy my garden seeds: SeedsNow

What To Plant In July

I highly recommend planting flowers near your garden because if you have flowers, the bees and other pollinators will come and help pollinate your garden plants. Oh, and don’t forget the butterflies that pollinate and add fun color to the garden. They are magical to me. Perennial Salvia plants are my favorite flowers to bring bees to my garden area. Because they are perennials, you cut them back a few times a year, and they keep coming back, as do the bees. These are the seeds: Perennial Salvia.

Check here to find your zone.

How I store my garden seeds:

Plastic Photo Container and Label Maker

Where I buy my garden seeds: SeedsNow

I highly recommend these products for growing your seedlings: CowPots and Organic Seedling Soil. You plant your seeds and place the CowPots in your garden when the temperatures are correct, based on your specific hardiness zone location.

Soil pH Levels

What Does the Term pH Level Mean

People probably say that having the right pH level in your garden soil is essential for a successful harvest. You may wonder what pH level means when gardening and how to determine your garden soil’s pH level. Each plant prefers a different level of acidity to grow the very best harvest. The level of acidity desired varies between plants.

Therefore, you can adjust the pH of your soil by adding lime or sulfur to bring it up or down, depending on the needs of your soil. You can have your soil tested, possibly by your state extension service, or try to do it yourself with a soil tester. pH Tester. Additionally, some local nurseries offer this service to their customers.

How To Hand Pollinate

All you need is a paintbrush or cotton swab (see below). If you need to hand-pollinate because you aren’t seeing any fruit develop on your garden vegetables, here is something you may want to try. You do this by removing the male blossom (male blossoms don’t have fruit behind them).

They produce pollen, leaving the center covered in pollen that can be collected with a brush or swab. Use a brush or swab to apply the pollen you collected to the center of the female flower. This works for squash, melons, herbs, and cucumbers.

What to Plant in July by Zone

July is not too late to start a garden. It can be a perfect time, depending on your time zone. It’s interesting to note how the zones have shifted slightly due to the global temperature change. Planting times have changed a lot. Here is what you can plant by zone:

Zones 1-3

While July is peak harvesting time for many places, the cooler climate locations can start planting their gardens. If you live in zones 1-3, it is prime time to start planting the following:

Arugula
Beans (snap)
Beets
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts (Zone 2)
Cabbage
Carrots (Zone 2)
Chinese Cabbage
Cilantro
Endive
Kale
Kohlrabi
Lettuce (head and leaf)
Parsley
Radish
Rutabaga
Spinach

Zones 4-5

Zones 4-5 are found throughout the Northern Midwest and New England. Here is what you can plant in these zones during July:

Basil
Beans (pole and bush)
Beets
Brussels sprouts
Chinese cabbage
Carrots
Kale
Kohlrabi
Leeks
Radishes
Squash (Summer)
Turnips

Zones 6-7

In zones 6-7, you have mild temperatures during this time. This means it is the optimal time to grow some of these plants in your garden:

Carrots
Radishes
Spinach

Zones 8-10

When you live in the southern states, it is pretty hot during July. But there are still several items you can plant. Here are just a few:

Brussels sprouts
Cilantro
Dill
Eggplant
Okra
Peas (Southern)
Peppers
Squash
Tomato

Cucumbers

Cucumbers thrive when the weather is hot and receives a lot of water. Plant them in full sun. If you planted seeds inside, don’t set your seedlings outside until the weather is in the 70-degree range.

Check the last frost date and wait two weeks before planting the seedlings or seeds outside. You can grow a second set of cucumber seeds in the first week of July and still be able to harvest them before the first fall frost date.

Decide if you want to grow bush cucumbers or cucumbers on the vine. I have always had better luck with bush cucumbers, which work great in pots or small gardens.

This is why they do better in my raised gardens. I suggest you stagger the planting of the seeds, as this will result in cucumbers bearing fruit at different times during the growing season, rather than all at once, producing a more manageable harvest.

Compost and Well-Rotted Manure

Cucumbers like compost and composted, well-rotted manure. They need well-fertilized soil. Cucumbers grow fast and don’t depend on much care or work to get them to thrive. When watering, try to keep the leaves dry to prevent leaf diseases from forming.

Male blooms show up first and drop off. No worries; a female flower will appear within a week or two. If not, you may have to do hand pollination. You remove the male blossom, leaving the center covered in pollen. Use a brush or cotton swab to apply the pollen you collected to the center of the female flower.

Use metal cages for vines. The cucumbers will hang better on those because they attach more easily to the wires as they grow. Plant two to three seeds about one inch into the soil and cover them with soil.

If the soil is moist and warm, you will see sprouts within a few days. Plant the seeds or plants 36-60 inches apart. Bush cucumbers can be planted closer. Cucumbers grow from start to finish in 50-70 days.

pH level for Cucumbers: 6.5 to 7.0

Green Beans

I have consistently grown bush beans. Their growing time is shorter, 60-70 days, which is just enough time if you plant the seeds in the first few days of July.

This is one of my favorite vegetables to grow. When our girls were growing up, we grew many green beans. We canned bushels of them in our pressure cooker.

They taste so good when they are freshly picked. I only grew bush beans, but you can plant pole beans if you have a support system to keep them off the ground.

Bush beans typically grow to about 2 feet tall, while pole beans can reach heights of up to 10 feet. Bush beans are ready to pick about 50-55 days after planting. Pole beans take a bit longer to mature, so plan on harvesting them in 55-65 days.

Please remember that if you stagger the plantings every 2 weeks, you can harvest green beans for weeks rather than all at once in one week.

Green beans are like well-composted, rich soil with rotted manure. You plant the seeds 1-2 inches deep and cover them with soil. Space the seeds in rows about 6-8 inches apart.

Water them immediately and regularly until they begin to sprout. After sprouting, they need 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week. They need full sun, so plan accordingly. They grow best when the air temperatures are between 65°F and 85°F.

When the green beans are the size of a pencil, they are ready to be harvested. They can toughen up very quickly, so check on them often. You pick them by snapping them off at the vine.

pH level for Green Beans: 6.0 to 6.2

Plant In July-Lettuce Varieties

The nice thing about lettuce is that it’s easy to grow and sprouts quickly. Ensure the soil is loose, loamy, and well-drained. Lettuce loves nitrogen and potassium, so keep your eye on the leaves as they grow.

Work in a lot of organic matter or compost. Lettuce matures in 55 to 60 days. Romaine takes longer to mature, as do head lettuce varieties.

Summer Lettuce Seeds: Summer Bibb

Adriana, Coastal Star, Red Cross, and Muir are other heat-resistant varieties.

Plant the seeds about 1/4 inch deep, tamp them in the soil, and water them. Easy and simple. Read the package to space the lettuce according to the type you choose. Seeds will not germinate in soils above 80°F.

You can start some seeds indoors and transplant the seedlings into a shady spot when the weather is too hot outside to plant them directly in the soil. You may want to choose heat-resistant varieties if you live in an area where temperatures get too hot in the summer.

It’s better to pick early than late in the growing cycle because the leaves become bitter if you wait too long.

pH level for Lettuce: 6.0-7.0

Zucchini or Crookneck

Summer Squash: zucchini, crookneck, and straight-neck (harvested in the summer before they reach maturity). You can start a second planting if you plant the summer squash seeds by the first week of July.

Winter Squash: pumpkins, butternut, spaghetti, and acorn squash (harvested in the autumn months after they reach maturity).

When you plant the seeds, test the soil to ensure it is at least 60 degrees F. before sowing. They need total sun exposure, loamy soil rich in nutrients, and proper drainage.

Plant the seeds in hills (2-3 each) one inch deep. Space them 2-3 feet apart. Thin as needed to produce the most vigorous plant. Use a cloche to protect the plants from cool weather.

Mulch the plants to keep them moist and weed-free. When the first blooms appear, fertilize the plants.

Water deeply, at least one inch of water per week. The soil needs to be moist at least 4 inches down. If your blossom ends turn black and rot, you have blossom rot. It’s usually caused by uneven moisture in the soil. It could also be a calcium problem.

Water must be consistent and frequent for the fruit to produce. If the fruits are misshapen, they may not have received enough water or fertilizer. Check for fruit you can pick daily; they grow faster than you think.

pH level for Squash: 5.5-6.8

Please Check Out What To Plant Each Month:

Final Word

It’s all about self-reliance, and gardening is a great way to do it. It doesn’t have to be the most enormous garden on the block; it can be on a small deck with pots planted with the seeds of the plants you love to eat.

It can be a shared piece of property or several acres of land. Whatever we can do to produce some of our food is one of the best ways to teach our families to care for themselves.

So, if you were wondering what to plant in July, now you know, and you can pass this information on to your neighbors. Thanks for being prepared for the unexpected. May God bless this world, Linda

Copyright Images: Gardening AdobeStock_218588157 by Irina Fischer, French Green Beans AdobeStock_42955688 by ecobo, Pollinating Cucumbers AdobeStock_177403079 by Viesturs Kalvans, Cucumber Growing In Garden AdobeStock_91930629 by Africa Studio, Fresh Lettuce in Hothouse AdobeStock_143646375 by diyanadimitrova, Zucchini Growing in Summer Day AdobeStock_116494927 by AKA-RA

The post What To Plant In July appeared first on Food Storage Moms.

from Food Storage Moms

10 Things People Forget When The Power Goes Out

Estimated reading time: 6 minutes

Most of us flip a light switch dozens of times a day without a second thought. We plug in our phones, run the dishwasher, and crank up the heat without ever considering what life looks like when the grid goes down. But when a storm knocks out power for more than a few hours, that comfortable routine falls apart fast, and that's when you realize just how unprepared you actually are.

A power outage isn't just an inconvenience. Without electricity, you lose heat or cooling, running water may become unreliable, food starts to spoil, and the darkness can make even a familiar home feel disorienting. Most people assume they'll figure it out when it happens. They won't. Or at least not easily.

That's why I love this video from the YouTube channel, Clever Joe Off Grid. Joe lives off-grid full time, so power outages aren't a crisis for him. In this video, he walks through the 10 things that actually matter when the lights go out, and a few of them are ones most people never think about until it's too late.

You can watch the video and see his list below.

1. Backup Power

The first thing you'll want is some kind of power source, but Joe cautions against overthinking this. A lot of people's first instinct is to buy a portable power station, and while those are useful, they only cover you for a day or two before you're stuck wondering how to recharge them. Joe recommends starting with a generator. He uses the Honda EU2200i, a quiet 2,000-watt unit that can safely run most household appliances, including your refrigerator.

The ideal setup pairs a generator with a power station. You can also build your own power station using a 12-volt lithium battery and a pure sine wave inverter, which gives you comparable capacity to a name-brand unit at a lower cost. Either way, having a recharge strategy is just as important as having the power station itself.

2. Heat

If your power goes out in winter, heat quickly becomes your most urgent concern. A wood stove is the gold standard, but Joe points out there are solid alternatives. A propane heater like the Thermate can be used safely indoors in cooler shoulder-season temperatures, as long as you have a carbon monoxide detector and don't run it while you sleep. Other options include diesel or kerosene heaters.

One underrated solution Joe swears by: an electric blanket plugged into a power station. It draws very little power and can keep you genuinely warm through a cold night without burning through your fuel supply.

3. Water

You can tolerate being without power for a while. You cannot tolerate being without water. Joe recommends keeping water stored ahead of time. He fills containers halfway in winter so they can freeze and thaw without bursting. Beyond storage, a water filter is essential.

Joe mentions the Membrane Solutions filter as a solid, affordable option, and notes that smaller hiking-style filters (around $20) are perfect to stash in a cabinet and forget about until you need them.

4. Lighting

This one sounds obvious, but people consistently underestimate it, especially at 2 a.m. when they're stumbling around a dark house half asleep. Joe recommends thinking like a camper: keep a self-recharging flashlight, a headlamp, and a reliable rechargeable lantern accessible at all times.

Candles work in a pinch. For longer outages, 12-volt lighting systems are especially efficient and can stretch your power reserves considerably. The goal is to never be caught searching for a flashlight that doesn't work when you actually need one.

5. Food

The biggest mistake people make with emergency food is buying things they'll never actually eat. Joe's approach is simple: stick to dry goods you already use and practice rotation. Use what you have within a few weeks and replace it. None of this has to be expensive.

Most of what Joe keeps stocked costs about a dollar per item at a dollar store. Skip the elaborate prepper pantry and just build a reasonable buffer of everyday staples.

6. Cooking

Once you have food, you need a way to prepare it. Joe's go-to is a butane burner with butane canisters, which he notes can be found cheaply at Asian supermarkets. A propane barbecue works just as well.

A small camping stove kit with a kettle pot covers most bases and can run off a 500-watt power station or larger. The point is to have at least one non-electric cooking method ready before the outage happens, not after.

7. Communication

When the power goes out, so does your Wi-Fi, and your phone battery won't last forever. Joe gives a brief but important mention to staying connected with what's happening outside your home.

A battery-powered or hand-crank emergency radio lets you receive weather alerts and news updates without depending on the grid. Knowing whether the outage is expected to last two hours or two days makes a significant difference in how you manage your resources.

8. Sanitation

Sanitation is one of the most overlooked items on any emergency prep list, and Joe covers two sides of it. First, personal hygiene: he recommends a simple bucket shower (heat some water, dip your bucket, done) or a rechargeable shower pump that hangs overhead. Wet wipes are an easy backup for staying reasonably clean between showers.

Second, and more urgently: the toilet situation. If your water pressure drops or your septic system stops working, you need a plan. A five-gallon bucket with a toilet seat lid from a hardware store does the job. Line it with compostable bags and you've got a functional sanitation solution that costs almost nothing to set up ahead of time.

9. Food Storage

Joe flags this as one that hits people hard during extended outages: the freezer full of food you're suddenly worried about. A standard power station can run a full-size fridge for a few hours, maybe longer, but not for days.

A better option is redirecting your food into a small chest freezer, which draws significantly less power and keeps food frozen longer. For those who want to go further, a 12-volt refrigerator running off a dedicated power station can keep food cold for several days on a modest charge.

10. Mental Comfort

Joe saves this one for last, and it might actually be the most important. Once your physical needs are covered, surviving a power outage well comes down to staying calm and keeping life feeling reasonably normal. Have something to do like a book, a card game, or a project of some kind.

A little preparation means you're comfortable rather than stressed while you wait it out.

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How to Prepare for an Earthquake: A Complete Family Safety Guide

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Suture Kit: What It Is, How to Use It, and Why Every Prepper Needs One

When the grid goes down, hospitals are overwhelmed, or you are miles from the nearest medical facility, a deep laceration can turn into a life-threatening situation fast. That is the reality of serious grid-down or wilderness scenarios, and it is exactly why a suture kit belongs in every serious prepper’s medical supplies. Knowing how to close a wound under pressure, without professional help, could be the difference between a scar and a serious infection.

This guide covers everything you need to know: what comes in a suture kit, which type of sutures to choose, how to properly close a wound in the field, and the critical mistakes that can make a bad situation worse.

What Is a Suture Kit?

A suture kit is a packaged collection of tools and materials designed to close open wounds using stitches. These kits are used by military medics, wilderness first responders, and emergency medical personnel when standard wound care is not sufficient to stop bleeding or keep a wound closed during healing.

A standard suture kit typically contains:

Suture needles and thread (pre-packaged and sterile)
Needle driver (a clamp-like tool used to hold and push the needle through tissue)
Tissue forceps (tweezers for gripping tissue without your fingers)
Iris scissors (small, sharp scissors for cutting suture thread)
Sterile gloves
Antiseptic wipes or solution
Gauze and wound closure strips (used before and after suturing)
Disposable drape (to create a sterile field around the wound)

Some kits also include a staple gun alternative, skin adhesive, or Steri-Strips for wounds that do not require full suturing.

Types of Sutures: Which One Should You Use?

Not all sutures are the same. The right choice depends on wound depth, location, and how long it needs to stay closed. Here is a breakdown of the main types you will encounter.

Absorbable vs. Non-Absorbable Sutures

Absorbable sutures dissolve on their own over time and are typically used for internal layers of tissue or areas where removing stitches is impractical. Common materials include polyglycolic acid (Vicryl) and plain gut.

Non-absorbable sutures must be removed after the wound heals. These are used on the outer skin layer and are made from materials like nylon (Ethilon), polypropylene (Prolene), or silk. For most external field suturing situations, nylon is the go-to choice because it is strong, resists infection, and is easy to handle.

Suture Sizes: Understanding the Gauge System

Suture thickness is measured in a reverse gauge system: the larger the number, the thinner the thread. For preppers, the most practical sizes are:

2-0 (2/0) — thick, strong; good for scalp wounds or areas under tension
3-0 — general-purpose for most external lacerations on torso or limbs
4-0 — finer thread for face wounds or areas where cosmetic outcome matters
5-0 or 6-0 — very delicate; reserved for eyelids or facial features, not ideal for field use

For a general prepper suture kit, stocking 3-0 nylon is your best all-around option. Add a pack of 2-0 for high-tension areas and 4-0 for facial lacerations.

According to the American College of Surgeons, proper wound closure technique and appropriate suture material selection are among the most critical factors in reducing wound infection and promoting clean healing outcomes.

When to Suture and When Not To

This is one of the most important sections in this guide. Suturing every wound is a mistake. In fact, suturing the wrong wound can trap bacteria inside and cause a serious infection that could have been avoided.

Wounds That Should Be Sutured

Clean lacerations longer than half an inch that have straight edges and are not contaminated
Deep cuts that gape open and will not stay closed with butterfly strips or wound closure tape

Wounds on areas of high movement (like joints or hands) where adhesives will not hold

Scalp lacerations with visible gaping and active bleeding

Wounds You Should NOT Suture

Bite wounds (animal or human) — extremely high infection risk; leave open and pack with gauze
Puncture wounds — closing them traps bacteria deep in the tissue
Wounds older than 6 to 8 hours — bacteria has likely already established; closure increases abscess risk
Heavily contaminated wounds — irrigate aggressively and use delayed closure if at all
Wounds showing signs of infection (redness spreading from edges, pus, heat, swelling)

In a true grid-down scenario where professional care is unavailable, the rule of thumb is: if in doubt, leave it open. A wound that heals by secondary intention (naturally, from the inside out) may scar more, but it is far safer than a sutured wound that becomes infected.

How to Use a Suture Kit: Step-by-Step

This is a skill that requires training and practice before you need it under stress. The steps below are a field reference guide, not a substitute for hands-on training. Consider taking a Stop the Bleed course, a wilderness first aid class, or a tactical medicine course to practice with real suturing simulators.

Step 1: Stop the Bleeding First

Before you even open your suture kit, the wound must be controlled. Apply direct pressure with a clean cloth or gauze. If the wound is on a limb and bleeding is severe, apply a tourniquet. You cannot suture an actively hemorrhaging wound.

Step 2: Irrigate the Wound Aggressively

This step is more important than the suturing itself. Using a large syringe (at least 20cc) and clean water or saline, flush the wound under pressure to remove debris, bacteria, and foreign material. Wound irrigation is the single most effective way to reduce infection risk.

Do not use hydrogen peroxide or full-strength iodine directly in the wound. Both damage tissue and slow healing. A diluted povidone-iodine solution (1 part iodine to 10 parts water) is acceptable for contaminated wounds.

Step 3: Set Up a Sterile Field

Put on sterile gloves. Place the sterile drape around the wound. Open your suture packet aseptically (without touching the needle or thread to anything non-sterile). Place your needle driver, forceps, and scissors on the sterile field.

Step 4: Load the Needle Driver

Hold the needle driver in your dominant hand. Clamp the needle at its mid-point, not at the very tip. The needle should be perpendicular to the driver, curved side facing away from you. The thread should trail naturally behind.

Step 5: Place the First Suture

Using your tissue forceps in the non-dominant hand, gently lift one edge of the wound. Pierce the skin at a 90-degree angle roughly 3 to 5mm from the wound edge. Drive the needle through with a smooth wrist-rotation (following the curve of the needle), out the other side of the wound at the same depth and distance from the edge.

The goal is symmetric bites: equal depth and equal distance from the edge on both sides. This produces a clean closure without puckering.

Step 6: Tie the Knot

The most common knot used in suturing is the instrument tie (surgeon’s knot). Here is the basic sequence:

Wrap the long end of the suture around the needle driver twice (double throw)
Grab the short tail with the tip of the needle driver
Pull through and tighten snugly, but not so tight it puckers the skin
Throw a single loop in the opposite direction to lock
Add one more single throw to secure the knot
Cut the tails, leaving about 3mm for easy removal later

Step 7: Repeat Across the Wound

Space additional sutures every 3 to 5mm along the wound. Start in the middle of the wound and work outward in each direction. This distributes tension evenly and produces a better closure.

Step 8: Dress the Wound

Cover with a non-stick sterile dressing. Secure with medical tape. Do not wrap too tightly. Change the dressing daily and monitor for signs of infection: increasing redness, warmth, swelling, discharge, or fever.

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), wound infections are among the most common post-procedure complications, and early signs of infection warrant immediate intervention to prevent sepsis.

Suture Removal: When and How

Suture removal timing depends on wound location:

Face: 5 to 7 days
Scalp: 7 to 10 days
Trunk or upper extremities: 7 to 10 days
Lower extremities: 10 to 14 days
Joints or high-tension areas: 14 days or longer

To remove sutures, use small scissors or a suture removal kit. Cut the thread on one side as close to the skin as possible, then pull the knot straight out. This prevents dragging bacteria from the outside surface through the tissue. Clean the area afterward with antiseptic.

Building Your Prepper Suture Kit

Commercial pre-built suture kits are available and convenient, but most serious preppers build their own so they know exactly what they have and can customize for their skill level. Here is what a well-stocked DIY suture kit looks like:

Essential Tools

1 needle driver (4 to 5 inch, stainless steel)
1 pair of Adson tissue forceps with teeth
1 pair of iris scissors (sharp, straight)
Sterile drape (paper or cloth)
Sterile nitrile gloves (multiple pairs, several sizes)

Suture Stock

10 to 20 packets of 3-0 nylon (Ethilon) with cutting needle
5 to 10 packets of 2-0 nylon for scalp and high-tension wounds
5 to 10 packets of 4-0 nylon for facial lacerations
5 to 10 packets of 3-0 absorbable (Vicryl or chromic gut) for deep tissue layers

Supporting Supplies

20cc or 30cc irrigation syringes (at least 3)
Sterile saline solution (500ml)
Povidone-iodine solution
Non-stick sterile dressings (various sizes)
Medical tape
Butterfly closure strips and Steri-Strips
Suture removal kit
Wound closure stapler (optional backup)

Store your kit in a waterproof hard case or a labeled pouch inside your medical bag. Keep suture packets out of heat and direct sunlight to preserve sterility. Check expiration dates annually.

Training: The Most Important Part of Your Suture Kit

A suture kit without the skills to use it is just expensive metal and thread. Suturing is a motor skill that degrades without practice. Here is how to build and maintain your capability:

Practice on pig’s feet or chicken thighs — available at most grocery stores, these materials simulate real tissue surprisingly well
Buy suture practice pads — silicone wound models that allow you to practice technique without wasting supplies
Take a hands-on course — wilderness first aid, tactical combat casualty care (TCCC), or civilian first responder courses often include wound closure training
Review technique regularly — watching surgical technique videos and re-practicing on simulators every few months keeps the skill sharp

The goal is not to become a surgeon. The goal is to keep a wound closed long enough to reach definitive care, or to manage healing safely if no care is available. That is an achievable skill with reasonable practice.

The U.S. Army’s Tactical Combat Casualty Care (TCCC) guidelines, published by the Defense Health Agency, recommend wound care training as a core skill for military personnel and civilian first responders operating in austere environments.

Legal and Ethical Considerations

In most jurisdictions, performing suturing on another person without a medical license is technically outside standard civilian practice. However, Good Samaritan laws in most U.S. states provide legal protection to individuals who perform emergency first aid in good faith when professional care is unavailable.

The practical reality of preparedness is this: in a true grid-down or disaster scenario, the choice is not between your field suturing and a hospital. It is between your field suturing and nothing. Under those circumstances, the ethical and practical obligation is to help.

Always document what you did, what materials were used, and when. If the person can later access professional care, that information will help their provider assess the wound and continue treatment.

When There’s No Doctor Nearby…

A serious injury doesn’t always happen within reach of a hospital. That’s why every prepper should know how to treat common medical emergencies when professional help isn’t available.

The Home Doctor is a practical medical survival guide written by experienced healthcare professionals. Inside you’ll learn:

How to recognize and treat hundreds of medical conditions at home
Step-by-step emergency care using everyday supplies
What to do when hospitals are overwhelmed or unavailable
Essential medical knowledge every family should have

If you’re building a serious medical preparedness plan, this is one resource worth having before you ever need it!

Final Thoughts

A suture kit is not a toy and it is not a gimmick. It is a high-skill tool for a specific type of emergency. When paired with training, proper wound assessment, and the discipline to know when not to suture, it is one of the most powerful additions you can make to your trauma medical kit.

Buy the kit. Learn the skill. Practice until it is not just knowledge in your head but muscle memory in your hands. The day you need it, there will be no time to read the instructions.

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