HOBO ROCKET STOVE [Simple DIY!]

How to harvest and process firewood

So, How Long Does Heating Oil Last?

 Original Article:

https://thehomesteadinghippy.com/heating-oil-shelf-life/

By Di-Anne Seebregts

As we all gear up for the cold winter months, heating oil is used in more homes worldwide than any other heating source. It is more affordable and safer than gas. Because of the very big job it does, we buy it by the barrel loads.

But how long will heating oil last? Provided it is properly stored in a tank that is in good condition and free of corrosion, and at temperatures above freezing, heating oil can remain usable for 18 to 24 months.

What factors can influence the storage life of heating oil and how can you ensure it remains usable?

I have a few tips to help you calculate the correct amount to purchase to ensure it will be used before its shelf life is over. I also have some tips and advice to make your oil last longer.

How Much Oil Should You Purchase?

The size of your home and where you live are both factors to consider when buying your heating oil. For a home that is 2,500 to 3,000 square feet (232 to 278 square meters), you should expect to use 5 to 8 gallons (18 to 30 liters) per day.

Most people will need 300 gallons (1,135 ltiers) to heat a one- or two-bedroom house over the course of a winter. Three- to four-bedroom homes will use about 400 gallons (1,500 liters) of heating oil.

On days when the temperature is 50 °F (10 °C) outside, you will use roughly 2 gallons(7 liters) to heat your home. The colder it gets, the more oil you will use.

It is important to take into account where you live. If you live in an area where the outside temperature goes well below freezing, you will need more oil than if you live in an area where it gets cold, but never below freezing.

You can also calculate how much oil your heating system uses by multiplying the number of hours a day your furnace runs by the gallons per hour used. This will help you plan your purchases better.

Why Does Heating Oil Have a Shelf Life?

Heating oil deteriorates with time because bacteria, water, and acids in the tank break it down.

Rust, crud, and sludge form through the natural corrosion process of metal and cause the oil itself to erode over time and releases these corroded metal particles that block up your heating system.

How Does Outdoor Temperature Affect Oil Usage?

The outdoor temperature will affect your oil usage and it could affect the usability of the oil. If it is very cold, you will probably leave your furnace on 24 hours a day. This means you will use more oil.

If you store your oil tank outside or underground, and the temperature reaches below freezing, the oil in the tank will take on a gel-like consistency. It cannot be used in this condition, but once it warms up, it becomes usable again.

It’s important to remember that when deciding on where to store the oil. Many people store their oil in their basements by the furnace for convenience, and to ensure it does not take on the gel consistency.

Underground tanks are exposed to more water (rain) and therefore corrode, rust, and break down quicker than oil stored indoors.

How Does the Condition of the Tank Affect Oil Storage?

With time and exposure to the elements, metal corrodes. It develops rust which will seep into your oil supply. The rust particles will then seep into your heating system, and cause blockages.

To prevent damaging your furnace and heating system, you should replace your storage tank every ten to fifteen years.

If your furnace runs out of oil while you are not home, do not panic; it will not damage your heating system. You may need to replace the filter before you reset the furnace.

Does My Furnace Impact My Oil Consumption?

The age of your furnace has a large impact on how much fuel you will consume.

Older furnaces will use much more oil than newer furnaces. If your furnace is struggling to heat your house, I recommend replacing it.

If you find yourself pressing the red reset button daily or multiple times a day, it means you are running low on oil, and need to get more. The good news is the oil lasts 18 to 24 months, so it will be good for next winter.

Optimal Temperatures for Oil Storage and Use

To maintain usable oil the temperature in the storage tanks, it should be maintained at 50° above the pour point. This is to aid the settling process of the oil.

The pour point of any liquid is simply the temperature below which a liquid loses its flow characteristics. In the case of heating oil, this refers to the oil turning into a gel.

Ways to Make Your Heating Oil Last

Here are some things you can do to make your heating oil go a little further:

• Decrease the amount of energy used in your home
• Turn off bathroom fans immediately after use to prevent excessive heat loss.
• Open curtains on sunny days to let the sun help warm your house.
• Keep curtains closed on cold, overcast days to keep the heat in.
• Set your thermostat lower – you do not really need sunbathing weather in your home.
• Buy your heating oil when the price is right – prices are lower in the warmer months.
• Find a service provider who can put you on a plan – this is normally cheaper than buying a tankful at a time.
• Upgrade your furnace – new furnaces use much less oil.
• Ensure that your storage tank is in good condition.
• Dress in layers and wear socks or slippers.
• Make sure that your heating system is free of obstructions.
• A good programable thermostat can help lower your use by reducing the temperature in the house when you are at work and raising it when you are home.

What to Do with Oil That Has Gone Bad

If your tank has unusable oil left over, you will need to call out an oil company to remove the unused oil. Make sure that you tell them when the oil was delivered so that they can appropriately either reuse it for some other function or dispose of it.

Conclusion

When purchasing and storing heating oil, a little planning goes a long way. Consider where you will store your heating oil. Plan for the cold and its impact on your heating oil.

Ensure that your tank, furnace, and heating system are in good condition and rust-free to prevent any blockages.

Make sure that your home is properly insulated. The insulation will help keep the cold out and the heat in, meaning you will need less oil.

It is easy to tell if your oil has gone bad. Just give it the sniff test. The oil that has gone bad will have a very foul odor.

If you do have leftovers in the tank from last year, check the color and flow of the remaining oil. It should be clear in color and should pour easily.

I hope this guide will help you plan your oil consumption and storage. Keep warm and cozy. Let me know what you do to conserve heat and optimize your oil consumption in your home in the comments below.

Tent Heater, Propane

Original Article

from --- Living Prepared --- by Mike Yukon

A tent heater is a very useful camping goody but not much for raising the temperature inside a tent which is almost impossible because it’s not insulated. However what a tent heater can do is dry the damp night air inside the tent. For me there’s nothing worse than trying to stay warm and comfortable when the sleeping bag, pillow or blankets are damp from the condensing humidity. The propane tent heater will burn off most of that excessive moisture in the air and keep your sleeping gear reasonably dry and comfy.

I’m just beginning to set-up my truck as a hunting/fishing and possibly Bug Out Vehicle. Even though I live in North Florida it does freeze up here for a few days during the winter. So on my overnight shore fishing outings and occasional hunts outings having a propane heater inside the cap of my truck is mighty nice.

A couple things I wanted from the heater was a long run time using just the 1 lb. propane cylinders, compact in the overall size and very easy to light. Coleman makes a catalytic heater that fits the need.

The Coleman Spec’s has some of the features I was looking for:

• Electronic ignition for quick and easy matchless lighting.
• 1,500 BTU output operates up to 14 hours from one 16.4 oz propane cylinder.
• Portable integrated handle makes heater easy to carry.
• Stable, detachable base provides a strong stand for the heater.

  

The on/off valve and start button.

Here’s the fold-out feet extended for additional stability.

The test run:

I set up the heater in the back of my truck (inside the cap) where I would normally be sleeping. The lowest outside air temp that test night was 45 degrees. To check the temperature I used a remote digital temperature reader to monitor the temps inside and outside. The temperature differential was between 10-15 degrees above the outside air temp. Naturally the colder it became the narrower the temperature differential was. Bottom line it was 55-60 degrees inside the trucks cap overnight. Just about perfect for Florida!

The actual test runtime was just a few minutes over 13 hours on one 16.4 oz propane cylinder. I’m happy with that because I can start the heater 3-4 hours before bed time to pre-heat the bedding and cap, then sleep all night without the heat going off before it’s time to get up.

For lighting the heater, if the built-in lighter fails then matches or a Bic lighter can be used.

Bottom line, I happy with it!

How to Stay Warm When the Power Goes Out

Original Article

from Code Name Insight by Code Name Insight

It's been a long, cold two weeks for some folks on Long Island.  Besides living in a disaster zone, they haven't had power for two weeks and while it isn't such a big problem when you decide to go without heat for an extended period of time for say, a hunting trip or an extended backpacking trip, when you are forced by circumstance to endure such a hardship, there aren't enough negative adjectives to describe the misery people can feel when it is as cold inside their house as it is outside.  Here's some ways to keep warm when the power goes out:

• Obviously having a wood stove (best) or fireplace (distant second) in your home is your best option.  A wood stove can keep at least one room of your home toasty warm and you can usually cook and heat water on top of it as well.  Having a good supply of firewood is also advisable.
• I keep a kerosene heater with extra kerosene on hand as one of my alternative heat sources.  You will want to make sure the room you use this heater in is ventilated to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning.  
• If you can heat water (on top of your wood stove, outside on your camp stove, or if you have a gas hot water tank) a hot bath or shower will warm you up in a jiffy.
• Layers of clothing can help to keep you warm.  Yes, you may feel like the Michelin Man but having multiple layers of clothing (instead of one thick layer) will help you retain body heat.
• Add all of the other goodies you would as if you were going skiing: hat, neck warmer, ear muffs, gloves, heavy socks, insulated boots, etc.  Note that sleeping with thick socks and a hat on can keep you warm and toasty at night.
• A generator can be a good option if you have the fuel for it.  I am guessing that fuel became an issue a few days into the event since 1) most people don't think a power outage will last very long, and 2) most people also don't usually store enough fuel to keep their generator running for weeks on end.
• Sometimes one side of the street will have power and the other won't.  In this case a good relationship with your neighbor who has power plus a long extension cord plus a space heater can do wonders.
• Bring on the blankets.  Probably the oldest idea in heating without external assistance is to wrap up in a blanket...or two...or three.  This is an excellent reason to invest in a 0 degree down sleeping bag.
• Sleep together.  Body heat generated by three or four bodies is better than body heat generated by one body.  There's a reason you see five or six people cuddled up together to sleep on the TV show 'Survivor'--it's warmer that way.
• Consider a hot water bottle or hot bricks.  This was common before modern heating was invented.  Heat water and put it in a hot water bottle or heat bricks/stones and wrap them in burlap then hold these items next to you under your blankets (I put them on my feet) and you will become instantly warm.  Note in a survival situation, peeing in a bottle then holding the bottle next to you is a tried and true survival trick--98.6 degrees can be cuddly warm when you are freezing.
• Chemical hand warmers are also nice.  Expensive, but nice.  These little packets generate instant heat but like hot water bottles and hot bricks, you will want to wrap the warmer in cloth and not stick it right next to your skin.
• Go somewhere that there is heat.  One reason the mall and the library and community cold weather shelters fill up on freezing days is that the homeless tend to go where it is warm.  If you live close enough to go to a place that has power and central heating (mall, library, coffee shop, etc) then do so. Even being warm all day can make freezing nights bearable.
• If you have the option (read: money) and the will to leave the area and stay at a hotel until the power comes back on (or even just sending the family while you stay to guard the house) that may be a best option (especially if you have small children or the elderly living in your home).   
• Make one small room of your home the "warm room".  Seal off the doors and windows of this room and live in only this room until the power comes back on.  With everyone in one room covered in warm clothes and blankets the temperature in the room will rise.
• Use candles to light up your warm room as these will also give off heat (be careful--candles are a big fire hazard).
• Work with the sun to heat your home.  Open window blinds in the morning to let the sun in and close the blinds (preferably heavy drapes) when the sun goes down to keep the cold air out.
• Break out the camp stove and keep the family in warm beverages--this can help warm your body from the inside out.
• Eat and drink more than usual since your body will burn more calories when it is cold than when it is at ambient temperatures.  Also, fatty foods are a good thing in this situation.
• Exercise.  Do some jumping jacks or other exercises to generate more body heat. 

And a couple of warnings:  know the symptoms of hypothermia and frostbite.  If someone is suffering from these symptoms, get them medical attention ASAP.  Also, beware the danger of death by carbon monoxide poisoning.  Using combustive appliances indoors (basically anything that generates fire like a camp stove, barbecue grill, etc) can cause carbon monoxide to build up and you will probably pass out and die before you know what hit you as CO is odorless and colorless so use these appliances in a well ventilated area.

Staying Warm In Winter After TSHTF

Original Article

from SHTF blog by Jarhead Survivor

Cold weather rocks, but are you ready for it?

Another winter is almost here and I heard on the news that heating oil costs are expected to soar this year.  They’re currently about $3.50 per gallon here in Maine right now, but they’re expected to go up to about $3.75 a gallon over the winter.  Ouch.  A typical home oil tank in New England (and I presume elsewhere) is 275 gallons.  How much would it cost to fill your tank?

Today’s prices:  $3.50 x 275 = $962.50.

Extrapolated price:  $3.75 x 275 = $1031.25
That’s a difference of $68.75.
As if things weren’t already expensive enough.
I don’t know about ya’ll, but I want to cut back on oil as much as I can.  There are different strategies you can use, but one of the best things you can do is make sure your house is well insulated.  Here are some tips and tricks on saving energy.  It starts with 7 (really 9) tips, but there are more ideas after that for insulating and so forth.  I won’t go into it too much here, but insulating is one of the best things you can do to help keep the heat where it belongs.

That’s just for the high price of heating oil, which could almost count for a SHTF event in my book.
What If TSHTF?
But this brings up the point about what will people do for heat after TSHTF?  If you’re in New England or anyplace where it gets cold for the winter – and I’m talking about in the teens or below zero at night, not just dipping into the 40’s – you’ll know that running out of heating oil if you depend on it is no joke.
If you are truly dependent on heating oil there are a few things you might want to have around in case the power goes out.
The first line of defense is your clothing.  First – dress in layers.  Wool sweaters and socks, good synthetic underwear, and warm pants are all good ways to help fight off the cold.  If the power goes out at night have some extra blankets or some good sleeping bags handy.  If it gets really cold don’t be afraid to have a family huddle.  Get everybody together in one place and snuggle up under some blankets.

Calamity Jane had a good post about cold weather clothing for women yesterday.
Space heaters
While a space heater won’t keep your whole house warm – unless you have a very small living space – you can hang blankets over the doorways or close the doors to heat only a couple of the main rooms.  I have a small kerosene heater that will keep the edge off when the power goes out.  I’ve also seen small propane heaters that fit right on top of the grill-sized tanks that do a good job of heating a room.
One thing to be aware of is that some heaters can give off deadly carbon monoxide if used improperly, so make sure you read the instructions for your device.  Read here for more info about carbon monoxide safety instructions.

Heating With Wood
Heating with wood is an excellent way to stay warm during the winter months and if the power goes out it won’t affect you at all.  You can cook on most woodstoves as well, so you probably won’t even have to get your camp stove out.

Old school cooking. Do you have a stove like this?

My parents used wood heat during the years I lived with them and many more after I moved out.  I can still remember my dad waking my brother and I up early on fall mornings, pointing out the window at  two cords of wood and saying, “I want that pile to be a memory by this afternoon.”  That’s something I’d like to pass on to my son because those kinds of lessons are what helped me out the most when I went into the Marine Corps, but that’s a different topic.

Anyway, wood heat can be a lot of work, which I’ll discuss in a bit, but it’s extremely worthwhile if you have the means to do it.
Pellet Stoves
When Mrs Jarhead and I moved into our new house a few years ago there was a pellet stove already in place.  I’d never used one before and at first I didn’t care for it, but after the first winter changed my mind and decided that it’s a great piece of equipment.  Our stove holds about 80 lbs of pellets and when we fill it up it’ll run a couple of days before needing to be refilled.  It only needs to be cleaned about once a week and best of all, the pellets come in 40 lb bags.  We keep about six bags in the closet next to the stove with the main storage area for the bags in the basement.
Last summer we bought two tons of pellets when they were on sale for around $215 per ton (that includes delivery), which should last us most of this season.
Pros –

• It’s easy to adjust the feed rate and blower fan to give different levels of heat depending on how cold it gets
• Easy to feed the stove (you need to be able to lift a 40 lb bag)
• Only have to feed the stove once or twice every two days
• Fairly low maintenance.

Cons

• Runs on electricity, but will run off a generator (I’ve had power outages and tested it)

One last note about a pellet stove – you can’t convert it to a wood stove.  Oh, I suppose you could with enough time and money, but when I saw it I thought, “Oh wow.  If the power goes out I’ll convert it to burn wood.”  Nope.  They are two different animals.

Best Bet for Long Term SHTF Scenario

In a long enough SHTF scenario fuel for everything will eventually run out if there is no resupply.  Your best bet is a woodstove in a well insulated house with plenty of warm clothing on hand for when the fire goes out.
Getting Your Own Wood
Cutting firewood is hard.  Cutting firewood with a crosscut saw or a big bucksaw is harder, which would be a necessity if there’s no fuel to run your chainsaw.  I know it’s harder because I’ve done it.  You will need to be in good shape if you intend to do this and I highly recommend you give it a try so you’ll know just how hard it is.

This is what getting your own wood consists of:

• Go to the forest and find suitable trees for cutting:  standing dead hardwood trees are your best bet.  Trees that have been lying on the ground for any length of time rot quickly
• Cut the tree down.  Cut into 4’ or 8’ for lengths for transporting unless you have a horse or something to twitch it out with
• Somehow transport them back to your yard
• Cut tree into stove lengths (12 to 16 inches usually)
• Get out your trusty axe or splitting mall and split wood into a manageable size for your stove
• Stack and cover the wood so that it will remain dry until you need it
• Carry wood into the house when ready to burn and put it in your wood box

If you think that sounds hard that’s because it is.  Now try it in the winter when there’s 18” of snow on the ground.  I’ve done that too and let me assure you that if you’re not in good shape it will likely give you a heart attack.  It’s best to have your wood supply laid in early if possible.

I’ll end here before this becomes the never-ending post.  This is one of those topics I could go on forever about, but instead of doing that I’ll let you chime in with your ideas for staying warm in winter after TSHTF.  C’mon, I know you have some ideas.

Let’s hear them in the comments.
-Jarhead Survivor

DIY Alcohol Stove Design

Original Article

from Possum Living by Tracy

This is an article from Wikipedia describing the function and design of the diy Trangia-style alcohol stove that is commonly made from aluminum drink cans. I have seen these designs all over the 'Net, and have built a few of them myself. Most of the articles I have seen simply give step-by-step instructions for building a stove. This article doesn't give building instructions; it rather explains how and why the design works, and compares different versions of the stove. 

Beverage-can stove

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Beverage-can stove (the pot stand is omitted for clarity)

A beverage-can (or pop-can) stove is a homemade, ultralight portable stove. The simple design is made entirely from aluminium cans and burns denatured alcohol. Countless variations on the basic design exist.
Total weight, including a windscreen/stand, can be less than one ounce (30 g). The design is popular with ultralight backpackers due to its low cost and lighter weight than most commercial stoves. This advantage may be lost on long hiking trips, where a lot of fuel is packed, since alcohol has less energy per weight as some other stove fuels.

History and design

The basic design dates back more than a century. It consists of a double-wall gas generator, a perforated burner ring, and an inner preheat chamber. A similar design was patented in 1904 by New York coppersmith J. Heinrichs. Trangia has been selling a commercial version of the design since 1925, and Safesport marketed a stainless-steel stove in the 1990s. The Trangia stove burner is made from brass, although all the other associated parts that come with it are aluminium. A plastic bag is provided for the burner, so that when packed away the two dissimilar metals do not corrode.
In the unpressurized open-top design the double wall acts as a gas generator, transferring heat from the flame to the fuel. This effect enhances combustion, producing more heat than other passive designs. The inner wall also creates a convenient preheat chamber for starting the stove. Once the fuel has warmed up, its vapor will travel up the hollow wall, pass through the perforations, and form a ring of flame. This improves air/fuel mixing and therefore combustion. Vapor also rises from the center of the stove, but will pass through the ring of flame for efficient combustion as long as a pot is over the stove. Other pressurized designs aim for efficient combustion through closing the fuel chamber after filling, or by filling through the gas-jet holes.
A wick may be inserted into the hollow wall, where it will draw fuel upwards closer to the hot parts of the burner. Evaporating fuel from the wick removes heat from the top parts of the burner and subsequently the fuel at the bottom receives less heat. This slows down evaporation through the center while increasing the gas pressure inside the wall, spreading the ring of flame outwards while the center of the burner produces almost no flame, leading to a more controlled burn and faster starting. Suitable wick materials include fiberglass or cotton cloth. The wick will not burn because the evaporating fuel keeps it cool, and the pressure inside prevents air from entering the hollow until the burner can no longer produce enough gas to support a flame.

Fuel is poured into the stove and ignited, burning in the center.

The flame heats the fuel and interior of the stove, causing the fuel to vaporize.

When the temperature is high enough, vapor pressure causes fuel jets and a ring of flame.

Aluminium-can construction

Three-piece beverage-can stove (exploded view).

The stove is made from two aluminium can bottoms. An inner wall is cut and rolled from the can material. A ring of holes is pierced into the top with a pin. Parts are glued with high-temperature epoxy, or sealed with thermal foil tape, although this is not strictly necessary. Total height is less than two inches (50 mm), though dimensions may be increased to hold more fuel or decreased to take up even less space.
The choice of aluminium has several advantages—light weight, low cost, and good thermal conductivity to aid vaporization of fuel. Alternative construction materials have been used, including stoves made of tin cans such as cat food tins, tuna cans, and juice cans—the basic design is very similar. Windscreens/stands can be fabricated from tin cans, cut to size with ventilation holes added.

Operation and performance

Each stove is designed for one or two people. When used to cook larger meals (greater than 2 cups (0.5 litres)), it is less efficient than a more-powerful stove which delivers more heat to a pot. This is because a longer cooking time is required, during which more heat is lost to the surroundings. A more powerful, pressurized version is shown below.
To use the stove, a small amount of fuel is poured into the stove and ignited. The pot is then placed above the stove, on a windscreen or stand. The flame is small at first, only burning from the inner chamber. Once the fuel has warmed up (requiring about one minute) its vapor will pass through the perforations and form a ring of flame. Enough heat from the flame is passed to the fuel to maintain full combustion until the fuel runs out.

Ratings

• Time to boil 2 cups (500 ml): ~12 minutes (45 ml of fuel)
• Time to boil 4 cups (1 l): ~24 minutes (90 ml of fuel)
• Burn time: ~16 minutes (60 ml/4 tablespoons of fuel)

Comparison with other stoves

The stove can outperform some commercial models in cold or high-altitude environments, where propane and butane canisters might fail. Roland Mueser, in Long-Distance Hiking, surveyed hikers on the Appalachian Trail and found that this stove was the only design with a zero-percent failure rate.
Fuel usage (by weight) is about fifty percent greater than a butane/propane stove. Can stoves weigh less than an ounce, compared with three ounces for the lightest gas stoves. Many commercial stoves also require special fuel canisters, adding to overall stove weight. No such canisters are necessary in a can stove; denatured alcohol can be carried in virtually any lightweight container, such as a plastic soda bottle. The weight advantage of the beverage-can stove is diminished by the greater fuel consumption (especially on longer hikes), but may still be offset by its reliability and simplicity.
Other attributes of the beverage-can stove are its nearly silent operation and its suitability as an emergency backup. Denatured alcohol is a (relatively) environmentally-friendly fuel that does not leave a residue of soot, although it is toxic to drink. (Pure ethanol is rarely used as stove fuel in the United States, since it is usually subject to a liquor tax.) Denatured alcohol is commonly available at camping outfitters and hardware stores. These stoves operate marginally on 90% isopropyl alcohol, poorly on 70% and not at all with 50%. Water typically can not be boiled with isopropyl.
Unsealed alcohol stoves are inherently dangerous, since spilling is possible and the fuel burns with a nearly invisible flame. Trangia offers an anti-flashback fuel bottle with an auto-shut-off pourer. If a spill occurs the best course of action is to step back and let the alcohol burn up.

Variations

Beverage-can stove variations with cross sections in yellow. From left to right—standard design; inverted two-piece; side-burner; pressurized.

A side-burner stove built from a single can as part of a Scouting project.

Standard 

The classic ultra-lightweight backpacking stove. Designed for one person, lighter than commercial models of the same design

Inverted two-piece 

Smaller and lighter than the standard version; difficult to fill

Side-burner 

Doubles as its own pot stand (holes are in the side). A tight-fitting pot can increase fuel pressure

Pressurized 

A more powerful version, but heavier and more difficult to make. The stove is sealed with a thumbscrew after filling with fuel; this allows the stove to control the rate of heat output. An additional base is used to hold fuel for preheating

Back-Pressured 

Back-pressured stoves simplify the pressurized design by eliminating the thumbscrew and the base needed for preheating, while still controlling the rate of energy output

Insulated 

A variation on the standard design, with an inner wall and insulated with fiberglass

Other 

Numerous designs in use

Multiple-unit 

When cooking for a larger number of people, nothing prevents the use of more than one unit under the same pot

Safety issues

The Boy Scouts of America now prohibits "equipment that is handcrafted, homemade, modified, or installed beyond the manufacturer’s stated design limitations or use. Examples include alcohol-burning 'can' stoves, smudge pots, improperly installed heaters, and propane burners with their regulators removed."

See also

Scouting portal

• Outdoor cooking
• Rocket stove

Notes

1. ^ U.S. Patent 560,319: W.J.D. Mast (1895)
2. ^ U.S. Patent 766,618: J Heinrichs (1904)
3. ^ Robinson, Roy. "The Cat Food Can Alcohol Stove". Retrieved on March 17, 2007.
4. ^ Mueser, Roland Long-Distance Hiking: Lessons from the Appalachian Trail (1997)
5. ^ "Weight comparison of beverage-can stoves vs. some commercial stoves"
6. ^ http://www.scouting.org/filestore/pdf/680-013WB.pdf BSA Policy on Use of Chemical Fuels. Accessed January 22, 2011.

References

• Berger, Karen: Hiking Light Handbook (2004)

External links

Listen to this article (info/dl)

This audio file was created from a revision of Beverage-can stove dated 2006-01-19, and does not reflect subsequent edits to the article. (Audio help)

More spoken articles

• Zen Alcohol Stoves
• Stove and Fuel comparisons, (Bushwalking.org)
• Wings - The Home Made Stove Archive
• Alcohol "Penny Stove"
• The "Hannah Stove" by Yannick Gingras
• Miniature Camp Stove
• Pika Stove

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How to Make a 16 Brick Rocket Stove

Original Article

from Arizona Preppers Network by itsadisaster

interesting and simple...





Dr. Larry Winiarski makes a clean burning rocket stove using 16 adobe bricks at the Rotary International-sponsored Integrated Cooking Workshop in Tlautla, Mexico (2008)



Popout






(hat tip to The Survival Mom)



------------------------------------------

Join the APN Forum at www.AmericanPreppersNetwork.net

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Chimney Cleaning and Safety

Original Article

 

from Surviving The Times by dlsoucy

Winter is finally fading away, and for those on a survival homestead a new season of maintenance and housekeeping awaits for the coming spring weather. One of the primary concerns of a homesteader, as well as anyone else that may use a wood-burning stove, fireplace or other device that utilizes those grand old chimneys that adorn so many homes is cleaning them out of the seasons soot. A lot of folks prefer to put the chimney sweep act off as long as possible, but I believe it should be done in the springtime, and as early as possible.
Why do I suggest springtime for cleaning your chimney? Because it will still be fresh from use and the buildup of soot and creosote will not have had time to harden up. Most of the pros I’ve talked to say it’s a lot easier for a homeowner to clean their own chimney if the soot is fresh, and preferably warmish. They say that if you have an open chimney you may have a sort of concreting or hardening of the accumulation near the top of the chimney if it gets repeated moistening from the rain. Covered chimneys apparently don’t have that problem.
Cleaning chimneys is a relatively easy task, provided you don’t mind getting dirty and you’re not afraid of heights. It’s a simple matter of obtaining a properly sized and shaped brush for the opening, and sufficient brush extensions to allow you to reach the entire length of the chimney.
Simply climb to the top, insert the brush and work it up and down a few feet at a time until you’ve brushed the entire length. It’s sort of like brushing your teeth before bedtime. To make things easier, if you have a fireplace open to the room indoors, tape a layer of plastic sheeting around the opening to keep the soot inside the fireplace. When you’re done brushing, take a shop vac and suck out all of the soot from the fireplace, the stovepipe, and/or the cleanout chamber at the bottom of the chimney.
Remember that soot is a very fine dust, so make certain you have a very fine filter on your shop vac. If you don’t you will end up blowing a fine cloud of soot all over the house, and believe me, it ain’t a breeze to clean up after that happens.
Check out some of the websites that specialize in this sort of thing, and also some of the chimney brush dealer’s sites. There is a lot of info by way of tips and suggestions that can be found.
While you are cleaning your chimney, check it out for loose masonry, disintegrating mortar and cracked flue linings. If you do this in the springtime, you’ll have all summer to obsess over it before you get it done.
Here are a few old timers’ tips for dealing with your chimney;
Suggestions for Repair Of Old Unlined Chimneys
1. A chimney in any existing building that becomes too hot to hold the hand against comfortably is dangerous if there is woodwork touching it. Have it carefully inspected by a reliable mason, and apply the protection prescribed by this ordinance as far as is possible.
2. The smoke test is strongly recommended as the best method for discovering defects in chimney walls which always indicate danger. If smoke escapes through the chimney walls at any place the chimney should be re-pointed or rebuilt as conditions may warrant.
3. Where soft coal is used it is often necessary to rebuild unlined chimney tops every few years, and all unlined chimneys, irrespective of fuel used, are very liable to become defective through disintegration of the mortar joints. In order to ascertain if chimneys need rebuilding, climb to the top and look inside. If mortar has begun to fall out from between the bricks it will soon do so all the way through the wall. Take an ice pick, a table knife, or other sharp implement and try to push it through the mortar; if you can do so, rebuild at once as follows:
Tear the chimney down to a point where mortar joints are solid, but at least 18 in. below the roof, get fire clay flue lining of the same size as the inside measurement of the chimney, set it in the top of the flue and build up with good brick and Portland cement mortar. This will make a solid chimney through the roof where there is greatest danger, and is the best that can be done unless the chimney is completely torn clown and rebuilt. Preserve a clear space of at least 1 in. between the woodwork of the roof and the chimney wall, and connect the chimney with the roof by metal flashings. Build to a height above the roof sufficient to clear nearby ridgelines and other obstructions.
Cleaning Chimney Flues
For efficient and safe operation of heating apparatus it is extremely important that both the flue and the smoke passages in the heating device be free from soot. When bituminous coal is used for fuel, soot accumulates quite rapidly and frequent cleanings are necessary.
Accumulation of soot in a chimney introduces the risk of a chimney fire with the consequent danger of sparks being thrown upon the roof or penetrating cracks in the chimney walls. This is a very great hazard and is the reason why chimneys should never be purposely burned out to clean them. The burning out of a tile lined flue is liable to crack the lining.
A common and efficient method of cleaning a chimney is to sweep it with a properly weighted bundle of rags or a bush attached to a rope and worked from the top, but because this operation is troublesome, chimney cleaning is frequently neglected.
Other methods of chimney cleaning recommended as simple and efficient are as follows:
1. The U. S. Fuel Administration [no longer exists as such] has strongly advocated the use of salt. The fire should he put in good condition with a substantial body of hot fuel. Well dried common salt is then scattered over the incandescent fuel in quantity depending upon the size of the furnace. For a household furnace, a pound at a time is ample. The- dampers should be kept open to maintain the furnace temperature until the fumes entirely disappear. This usually takes about half an hour. The soot is disintegrated by the action of the salt fumes. Repeat the application as necessary.
This method is highly endorsed for cleaning boiler tubes and furnace passages. It does not interfere with the operation of the plant and neither brickwork nor metal is deteriorated.
It is known that a layer of tarry soot 1/16 in. thick on boiler tubes or furnace passages will decrease their heating efficiency 20 per cent, hence the necessity of keeping them clean. It is claimed that an occasional use of salt as described will keep both heating apparatus and flue free from soot.
2. An ex lire chief recommends firing a revolver loaded with one or two blank cartridges up a chimney flue to remove soot. He asserts it to be very effective and that no injury to the flue results. Precaution should be taken to shut off the flue opening or fireplace with an old blanket or piece of burlap to prevent the soot flying back into the room when it falls following the shot. This method requires that the fires be extinguished before it is applied.
3. Scrap zinc thrown on a hot fire is recommended as a soot remover. The zinc fumes are said to disintegrate the soot.
Zinc compounds are also sold for this purpose, but as several pounds of these zinc materials are recommended to be used at a time, they would be somewhat expensive.
EXTINGUISHING CHIMNEY FIRES
A handful or two of powdered sulphur thrown on a fire is claimed to be effective in extinguishing a soot fire in a chimney. It produces sulphur dioxide which extracts the oxygen from the air supply and so prevents combustion.
A few pounds of salt thrown in the flue at the top is an old and excellent remedy for a soot fire. Even a pail of sand, earth or ashes is helpful. Such materials, however, should be used with much care, if at all, when a fireplace connects with the chimney flue, for they would be liable to scatter the burning soot into the room where the fireplace is located.

Mr. Heater Big Buddy Review

 I have one of these and this is a great review.

Bax

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from Tactical Intelligence by Tactical Intelligence

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For those looking for a great emergency heating source this winter, check out the Big Buddy Heater by Mr. Heater.
To give you some background, my house is currently heated by a pellet stove. Even though it’s very efficient and heats the house nicely, the obvious issue is that it doesn’t work if there’s a power outage. As a backup I do have a wood-burning stove that I could install if there were an extended grid-down situation, but I wanted to have something that could be set up quickly and easily for short-term emergencies as well as a temporary solution until I would need to install the wood stove.
There were four things I was looking for: 1. It had to be propane fueled. 2. It needed to be portable. 3. It had to put out at least 10,000 BTU and 4. It had to be safe enough to use indoors. What I found that met all these requirements was the Mr. Heater Big Buddy heater. Here’s my review:

Setting up the Big Buddy Heater

Out of the box, the Big Buddy sets up very easily. It’s a simple matter of hooking up two disposable 1lb propane bottles (the ones that are typically used for camping applications) on either side of the heater, turning on the pilot light and firing up the heater.

Fitting a 20lb propane tank

Along with the Big Buddy, I also purchased a propane-tank adapter and hose. It actually accommodates two hoses to be fitted to the heater, allowing you to hook up two 20lb (or larger) propane tanks. The obvious benefit is extended run time. For example, two 1lb bottles will give you around 3 to 12 hours of heat (depending on what setting it’s on), whereas the two 20lb propane tanks last for 50 to 220 hours (again depending on the setting).
If you’re considering purchasing one of these hoses be sure to read my recommendations below.

Testing the Heat Output

Since I haven’t had this heater for that long I haven’t been able do any extensive testing but my initial impression is that this heater seems to put out a good amount of heat. There are 3 heat settings — low, medium, and high — which give off 4000/9000/18000 BTUs respectively.
With last night being in the early 20s (Fahrenheit) I thought I’d test it out for a few hours; so I ran this in a medium sized room (around 200 square feet) and it kept the room at a comfortable 73 degrees.

Features

• Battery or A/C powered blower fan for versatility
• Low, medium, and high heat level control knob for steady temperatures
• Key-shaped rear mounting holes for wall mounting
• Built-in Piezo starter for easy starts
• Automatic shut off for accidental tip-over and fume safety

Likes and Dislikes

Here’s a list of the good and bad:

Positives

• Propane Fueled: Propane is one of the most stable fuels around. The great benefit of that is that it will store for many years without degradation.
• Portable: Since this heater is lightweight and can be carried quite easily, it makes for a great bug-out heater. Also, it simplifies moving it around in different areas of the house in an emergency situation.
• High Heat Output: With a maximum output of 18000 BTUs, the Big Buddy puts out a lot of heat for such a small unit. It easily fits my requirements for an emergency heater.
• Can Be Used Indoors: For the most part, this heater is safe to use indoors. Even though the heater comes with a low-oxygen sensor that will shut the unit off if the sensor is activated, I would still recommend using a Carbon Monoxide alarm in the area where you are running this heater.

Negatives

• No AC Adapter: I don’t understand why they don’t provide the power cord for the blower fan. Instead it’s another “accessory” that you have to shell out money for. What a waste.
• Can Clog if Not Careful: See my comments under the advice section

Some Words of Advice

The most common issue I’ve read about that people have found with this heater is that the regulators and control valves get clogged when running a 20lb tank. As one reviewer mentioned, this can be avoided when you ensure that you always shut the tank off first, then let the heater run until it burns off all the fuel in the lines.
If this procedure is not followed, the high PSI coming from the propane tank will get trapped in the accessory hose causing it to chemically react with the rubber and leech out an oily residue. This oil will clog both the regulator and control valve essentially ruining your heater.
In case you happen to forget to follow the above procedure, I highly recommend you purchase either the gas line filter that will catch the oily substance or a hose that comes with a regulator which lowers the PSI and prevents the chemical leeching (this is what I did).

Related posts:

1. How to Make a Candle Heater
2. Survival Car Heater – Carbon Monoxide Testing Results
3. Military Sleep System Review